What options do I have for valve covers, 455, harland sharp roller rockers.
Stock notched valve cover with baffles in place won't work.
I don't think I want to use the spacers available unless thats my only option.

 

Spacers with the stock covers are not your only option. There are quite a few available but you're either looking for the 'tall' version or removing the baffles from your stockers is said to work (and avoids the need for the spacers). It's a bit ridiculous how expensive valve covers are these days. You used to have your choice of aftermarket brands for less than 100 bucks but I guess I'm dating myself. These days, everything I see is 300 and up. Peyton Hunt at PDD is machining some gorgeous pieces but expect to mortgage the house for those. Everybody who drags out an old pair of Edelbrock's or Offie's thinks they have the holy grail and prices them accordingly.
I run chrome cheapies you can find all over the internet. Tall so they clear my HS rockers and I won't lose sleep if they get damaged. They have clearance to the PB booster and A/C evaporator box but it's close.

 

I have HS rockers under stock valve covers with baffles.
I use the Cometic Valve Cover Gaskets C15440 which are 0.188 in. thick and don't compress that much.
Also use the shortest poly-lock that clear the rocker arms. Think I used COMP Cams 4600-16.

 

I bought the spacers for my stock valve covers probably 20 years ago. I think they were 40 bucks? Little doubt the price has doubled since then! They work fine, and were the cheapest option.

 

From my perspective, the only downside of spacers is choosing longer hardware & 2 pairs of gaskets needed. I’ve been using the same 2 prs of Perma Dry Plus (now Cometic offerings) for 25+ years, on 3 different engines, they’ve never needed replacement. Hurt once (pricey), but never have to buy them again.

Then again, with short locknuts, many get away without spacers, but I still would use the Cometic rigid frame gaskets.

I mean do spacers really look that bad?

 

My concern is not so much the look, but keeping the spacers sealed,

 

I'm using a pair of vintage M/T covers and a rigid gasket set on a 350 that CutlassEFI (Mark Remmel) built with the HS rockers - no clearance issues on those. There are also 'tall' covers available from several aftermarket vendors which might work for you depending on bracketry and/or brake booster clearance (I have an Delco Morraine style 11" booster)

The rigid/reusable gaskets may provide just enough extra clearance with stock covers to clear your rockers or at worst, they're a good investment just in themselves.

 

If you’re going to use the notched covers no matter what, then your only choices are to remove part of the baffles or use spacers.

 

Unfortunately the decades have passed me, I can’t remember having any leaks with spacers, though I can’t remember whether I ever used them with “conventional “ gaskets. They probably would have been fine, but the rigid frame gaskets are the ticket IMO, with or without spacers, though many people have no problems across the variety of other choices. Then again, despite 10 bolts, Olds valve covers are no strangers to leaks.

As Mark noted, baffle removal is sometimes required, particularly with notched, stock covers. I do have experience with removing baffles and it’s all negative! I encountered noticeable, if not severe oil consumption through the PCV system without baffles. IIRC that might be what drove me to spacers and properly baffled covers. Again, some people successfully run without baffles by various means but I’ve read plenty of threads under multiple brands regarding oil consumption as a result of no baffles.

 

Ben, have a look at "nick@wri-net.com" post #261 in his restoration thread in "Major Builds and Projects". Shows a partial baffle removal to clear the poly-locks. Also as stated in a previous post, you might want to try the shorter poly-locks. Another option, if you can find them, is the early covers as used on the 1964 330 and some 1965 V8s. The one side valve cover has no hole for breather or PCV and no baffle. You can use a hole saw to cut a hole for a MOPAR grommet and baffled breather (I can post a picture if desired); not sure about using a PCV in this case. Good luck.

 

Thanks for all the advice, everyone.
I think that the spacers and notched valve covers are the way to go forward.
I currently have a set of chrome Edelbrock valve covers on with the baffles removed. I'm not crazy about them, so they can go.

 

I used studs and serrated flange nuts, the studs make it much easier to line up 2 gaskets, the spacer and the valve cover. The serrated flange nut keeps things from loosening up. No leaks.

 

If you want to use stock valve covers just cut your baffle like shown in the picks and use the Edelbrock 7598 gasket.
No spacers, no leaks, OEM valve cover bolts and works like a charm.

 

Don't mean to hijack the thread but - happy to see I'm not the only one who mounted a fuel pressure regulator at this location. I used mica washers between the head and flange to cut down on heat transfer to the regulator. I like your plumbing, too.

 

If I had my way I would use SAE or JIC/AN flare connections for every fluid connection, it’s just too tricky & expensive for rad & heater hoses! (& not necessary)

I had a long running battle with sustained WOT fuel starvation using a Qjet, thus a higher volume fuel system.

…

 

Nick needed to remove the baffles to clear the Harland Sharp pedestal shaft type rockers. He didn't want to use spacers for the originality look. No way would his ever clear a stud rocker with a poly lock.
Just get the spacers. Both of mine have them and you can't hardly tell.

 

You are making this more difficult than it is.
Just follow post #13 and you'll be fine.
No need for shorty Polly's.
Many have asked me about this and did the same as I did.
I believe that Nick and I talked about this and he used the same method.
IT JUST WORKS !
.

 

Nick's car doesn't have studs and poly locks. He has the Harland Sharp pedestals, and they will still rub if the bolts are too tight. USE THE SPACERS

 

Original post states he is using Harland Sharp rollers.
No need for spacers with stock covers.
Tighten what bolts too tight ?
Valve cover bolts ?
Tighten valve cover bolts to 10-12 ft lbs in sequence. No leaks !