Hello All, Spent the winter putting in a newly rebuilt 455 in my 68 442. started it up for the first time today. It ran for a few min and started smoking from the area of the headers. Coolant was dripping on them. Traced it up to the bolts on the valve cover. So this is F block with B heads and a stock cast iron intake. .070 over, Elgin cam. 10-1 comp. Looking for thoughts and direction on finding the problem. My thoughts lead me to non compatible intake or also I blocked of the crossover on the head at the manifold. Engine did start and run well. It may have started when the thermostat opened. Did my best with the pics but if you need something else let me know. Thanks in advance, Greg







The intake pictured was replaced with the cast iron in the first pick

 

Do any of the VC bolt holes punch through to the water passage in the head? I'm not all that familiar w/ this detail, but that would seem odd to me if they were. In that case, sealant should be used on the threads.

 

I'll give that a look when I pull the covers. Kinda not looking forward to it. I can only think of Intake gasket. Was also thinking the engine was delivered with a performer intake. Would there be changes to the head that would keep it from sealing correctly? It seemed to install well. I'll be draining some oil also. I'll have a look and report back with better pics.

 

Let us know if you find anti-freeze in the oil or see an obvious problem under the valve cover. Do you have an extra valve cover, not a notched one but a cheapee one that you could cut the top off of and watch the valve train area while its running? That would reduce the chance of oil running over the headers and making a lot of smoke! John

 

Post a few better pictures. Unless the head is fulll of water under the valve cover I cant imagine it coming from there. And if it was the oil should be full of coolant too. What does the oil look like ? Hope it isnt a cracked head

 

OK I pulled the valve cover. It all looks clean though everything is greenish in color. I'm thinking its the break in oil. I think I'm so worried about this engine working well I got very worried. The oil seems a little lite/runny for break in oil and its been in there a while, so I'm gona change it out. and take a good look at it. I need to run it for 1 hr @1500 RPM. Then change. Any recommended oil or is Lucas additive good? Thanks to all for the replies. Greg

 

I had a problem similar to this. One of the intake manifold bolts was not torqued properly. Something to check.

 

Retorque everything after a couple heat cycles. Finish your breaking, change the oil, and cut the filter open. If it’s clean, relax.

 

I would stick with the same break in oil that you have in there now. After your break in period just pull the filter and cut it open to check for metal. If all is well put anew filter on and add a quart of the same oil. I would run the break in oil for a few hundred miles and then switch to a "hot rod" oil like Driven etc. If the maker of your break in oil has a "hot rod" oil i would stick with the same brand. I dont like using additives. There are several very good oils out there that dont need it.

By the way, 1500 rpm for an hour is crazy. A half hour is more than enough and its more important to vary the rpm's some in my opinion. Is the car drivable ? If so that is the best break in.

 

Bill, The 1500/1hr seemed a bit much, but what the builder told me to do. I've been reading posts here related to this but opinions vary. I do think the speed change would help set things in place better. The plan with the car is to do break in and drive it 3 miles to my shop where i have more room to work. Then its swap in a new rear dif and all new brakes. Then drive. Larry. Bolts now have sealer on threads. Thanks again. Greg

 

If that is the case then that is definitely what you should do. I thought you had built it yourself. I would also follow his recommendations as far as oil goes.

 

I put a Eldebrock aluminum intake on a 455 years ago and started it and had vacuum and coolant leaks all over. I was really pissed and walked away. Next day I rechecked torque on all bolts- tightened some a bunch- and restarted- all leaks gone and was fine for as long as i owned it! Did you get your leak figured out??

 

Greg, I now have re torque on the list of things to do after a few heat cycles. Really I was most worried that the heat crossover plates i made were causing manifold to leak coolant. Turns out yellow green oil on blue motor looks very green! I find myself that walking away for a bit always gives me better perspective. Hopefully no issues. Greg

 

Greg, If enough of the unknown liquid (oil?) is available test to see if it will mix with water. if yes it is coolant, if no it is oil.

 

Brad Penn break in oil is green. do a taste test for gods sakes.

 

Ah.. The old "looks like sheet, smells like sheet, tastes like sheet, must be sheet" test. always a no brainer

 

I would only do that if your engine builder suggests it. Modern gaskets really dont need it in a stock engine.

 

“Cheborneck” from Cheech & Chong!

…