Jeez, I sure hope to not stir things up with this question but the more research I do on what oil I should use on my '66 Toronado the more confused I get. I'm just looking for some suggestions. Now I'm not looking to find the "best" oil, rather one I just don't have to worry about too much.

First off, she's a bone stock 425 which has never been rebuilt. Now I know it's got a flat tappet cam so ideally you want to use an oil that's got higher than normal zinc. The popular oils I see in my research are Valvoline VR1 (10W30 in my case) and Driven GP1 (again, in 10W30).

Now, here's the problem........neither of those are available in Canada. Driven doesn't sell here and the only VR1 that you can get here is the 20W50 which I'm not going to use. So what other options are there? Again, Castrol sells a "Classic" oil for classic cars but it only seems to be available in 20W50, just like VR1. There is Lucas Classic Hot Rod oil available here locally in a 10W30 but I'm not too sure about that stuff. Is it decent?

Synthetic oils, well I am really unsure about them. There's tons of options available for this type of oil here. How well will they react with the old gaskets and seals? Maybe they're a decent option?

Until now, I've been using everyone's favorite go to classic car oil.......Rotella T4 10W30 but from what I understand this isn't a great idea? I'm sure it's fine for now but does anyone have any other suggestions? We have some pretty big manufacturers of oil here in Canada such as Petro-Canada and Irving so maybe I could give them a call?

 

Nothing “wrong” with 20w50, as long as you don’t try to start it when it’s cold. In Canada, that’s probably not ideal.

What about mail order? I think someone just started a thread about VR1 10w30 on sale with Amazon.

In all reality, the engine is 60 years old. The valve springs are tired, the cam and lifters have had plenty of time to establish a wear pattern together. I’d be willing to get the Rotella (even with the reduced zinc additives) is adequate. what about using regular oil and a flat tappet oil supplement? I’m pretty sure you can find Lucas and other brands at autozone.

 

Diesel oil no longer has the zinc, and high viscosity oils like 20W-50 only increase internal friction and heat generation. Why do people still want to use these in a stock street motor. ANY of the high zinc oils (Amsoil, VR-1, Driven, Lucas, Castrol Classic, etc, etc) are equivalent. Use 10W-30 that you can find locally. Don't lose a lot of sleep over this. Changing the oil and filter frequently is FAR more important than the brand.

 

Yeah, looks like I could get VR1 10W30 through Amazon but it's pretty pricey. Like 80 bucks for 6 quarts & I don't like ordering through Amazon these days (I have my own reasons). We do not have Autozone here in Canada but Lucas Hot Rod oil is available at one of my local parts stores. I've been reading about that particular oil and people seem to think it's trash. I'm not sure if that's accurate.

 

Thanks Joe but out of all those you mention, only Lucas & Amsoil is available here in Canada. Driven & VR1 are not sold here and Castrol Classic only comes in 20W50. I think I could get an Amsoil product but that would be synthetic and I really don't know how well that would play with the old gaskets and seals on the old girl.

 

Get VR1 10-W30. Either hold your nose and order through Amazon, or try Wal Mart ordering, or some other solution. This is only complicated because you're putting a lot of weird constraints on it. Don't run 50 weight oil in Canada, that's for super duty or hot climates.

 

VR1 certainly seems to be the best option..You gave me an idea though, maybe I'll call around and see if I can get it shipped in through one of the local parts stores. Otherwise, yeah I guess I'll have to break my rules and get it through Amazon.

 

Excellent. Check around for what filter that 425 takes, there's a lot of threads here on filters. I don't know if the Toro stuff gets in the way of a tall filter, I don't think it does, but you can confirm.

 

Currently you can buy a case of 6 qts for $36 and change US.

 

I run Amsoil ZRod exclusively in all my older cars. Zero issues. It's not a full synthetic, it's a blend.

 

If you can get the Lucas locally then that is what I would use. Lucas has very good products.

 

I think I'm good! Every one of em, minus the K&N, made in Canada too which does my heart good.

 

This is very promising! I have a local Amsoil dealer so if they can get it for me I'll definitely give it a try.

 

Looks like full synthetic to me (it's written right on the bottle), however if it's working for all of your cars I'm sure it's a good choice.

 

For the record, the problem with diesel oil is not necessarily the lack of zinc, it’s also the fact that they have very high amount of detergent and calcium. That counteracts the benefits of the zinc.
Just an fyi, Mobil 1 still has a fair amount of zinc, and should be available most everywhere as well.

 

Yeah, that was my understanding as well with T4. With regards to Mobil 1, which particular version are you referring to?

 

×2 on not making this more complicated than it needs to be. Also ×2 on Lucas Hot Rod Oil, which is readily available in Canada. Been using it for years. Available in 10W-30 and 10W-40 which should suit a stock '66 425. No need to go to a 20W-50 unless your engine is overdue for a rebuild.

 

I always had the impression that Lucas was a rinky dink snake oil operation for some reason and never considered their products before.

 

Amsoil & don’t look back.

​​​​​​….

 

Well, I don't know how to help you with your perceptions except to say that I have used it in my 400G for over ten years, and in an L-79 Chevy for several years before that and have never experienced any problems that could conceivably be considered lubrication-related.

 

Ok cool, yeah thanks for that. Everyone has given me excellent options/opinions here as usual. I'll try for the VR1 first, if that doesn't work out I'll try Amsoil, and failing those options I can go for the Lucas.

 

What oil has been used in the engine for the past 59 years?

 

Good question.

My Dad, who owned the car since 1973 prior to me getting it, only used Quaker State 10W30 oil. The thing is I have an oil change record for this car from 1982 which, according to the odometer, was 400 miles ago. Yeah, this car hasn't seen much use since 1982. The oils have changed significantly in recent years and I'm using the car a lot more than he did so it's something I have to give a bit of thought. The Quaker State of today is quite different than the cans of Deluxe Quaker State oil that he gave me that he accumulated over the years. I hope that makes sense.

 

Exactly...

Ourkid2000, you have the cream of the crop Oldsmobile engine with an original 80,000 miles, which is awesome. But at the same time try not to fret too much it's going to drive you batty.... As you can see the answers are sort of all over the place. Indirectly meaning whatever is available for a gas powered vehicle is generally good enough.

I was basically going to post what HydarMatic just posted. In that time period its had whatever concoction was available... Since 1987 I have had an antique Oldsmobile via daisy chain in my possession continuously. Putting 10s of thousands of miles on several of them. I've never really thought about this lack of Zinc issue till recently. I've just usually used well known brands with proper grade since. Maybe if you decide to go with whatever is readily available you may consider going with a Zinc additive. Like Rislone ZDDP. These companies are not snake oil salesmen like many like to preach. If the car has an issue that they claim to remedy with the use of there product it will make a difference. Octane boosters work, Bars stop leak works, Lucas oil products work, etc... Have used all of them and more over the decades. Now if the cars don't have an issue but people think some of these products will still make a difference that's a different story. Or if the remedy is outside of the scope of the product. Unrealistic disappointment can start taking hold.

 

Ask and you shall receive! My favorite local auto parts place ordered some in for me so I'm pretty happy with this. I'll just keep using this stuff as long as they'll keep ordering it for me.

 

Well this is an interesting video and quite timely. What's everyone think about this? He's saying that modern API SP rated oils have been designed with a zinc/calcium ratio that does a great job protecting the cam shaft without requiring high amounts of Zinc to do it. There's some pretty cheap oils out there that meet these requirements, like Quaker State conventional 10W-30. I'm looking forward to more on this.

 

Been listening to him for years, I think he is pretty credible. Has some great experience and background.

 

Yeah I didn't get the feeling I was being sold something here. That's always a good sign.

I've watched a lot of his stuff and I find that he's ALL over the place which makes the information hard to follow much of the time but he's been pretty consistent with his style of not pushing particular products.

 

I often wonder about the Jeep/AMC 4.0 or the Cummins 12 valve engines. There are millions of them all over, with their flat tappet cams getting the cheapest modern oils out there. And they seem to do fine.

 

That's a great point and certainly something to think about. Like someone said earlier, regular oil changes matter much more than the brand of oil used. It's good to know you can throw in an SP rated oil though and not have to worry about it being the "wrong" stuff.

 

I like to see steady, repeatable pressure. I've since settled on Brad Penn/Penngrade for my 468. It costs more, but is super stable and predictable.

 

Lake speaks very highly of VR1 and Vavoline in general, knows their engineers. There probably won't be any problem with any oil, especially if it is stock peanut cam with worn out valve springs, that most Olds V8's had. The problem is more with new off shore flat tappet cams with higher spring pressure, fail too often. I'm running half 10W30 and half 20W50 with a high volume oil pump, seeing 100 psi cold under throttle, too much. The VR1 is a nice balance of everything in 10W30.

 

This man's name is Lake Speed, he was an engineer for Joe Gibbs/Driven oil when they created their own line of oils for Nascar and passenger cars. You can take anything he says straight to the bank! He is a Triboligest (sp) (oil engineer).

 

Following this from Northern CA, where it’s a bit hotter than Nova Scotia.

I’ve been running 20/50 VR1 for years since we hit 90-100°F for a few weeks a year. I both my cars have ‘66-70 455’s with more or less stock cams and more or less stock transmissions/drivetrains. And 3.23 rear ends.

I typically park the convertible from November to March and use the hardtop in cooler/rainer weather.

Should i take away from this thread that it would be better to run 10W30 or 10W40 VR during our cooler winter months? Our temps that time of year pretty much run from 35°F-70°F, we almost never freeze by the San Francisco Bay.

It gets frosty, but snow is every 15 years or so, dusting the mountaintop and disappearing before 11:00 a.m.

Thanks for your guidance. I don’t sweat this very much, but if I can do a better job, why not?

Chris