I am full of questions this morning. I recently reinstalled my 455 into my 1970 Cutlass Supreme with the correct motor mounts and mount brackets. It now sits so low that I will have to remove the steering shaft to get to #7 plug. Is this normal?

 

Is the trans mount in the right place? There is only one crank centerline location, no matter which engine you have. As as we've pointed out many, MANY times in the past, the 2261 and 2328 motor mounts put the crank centerline in exactly the same place when used with the matching frame pads. It isn't possible to mount the engine any lower than it was from the factory unless you take a cutting torch to the crossmember.

 

OK is it possible to have a mismatch between the motor mounts and the frame mounts? The pic from opgi is what I put on and the one on the tire is what I took off. The other pics are of the clearance I have.

 

Your first problem was changing the frame pads. The OPGI frame pads require Anchor 2328 motor mounts.

 

OK, I bought new mounts and I believe I bought the 2328 mounts its been a while since i purchased them. The transmission and engine went in together. And I located the crossmember from anchoring the engine. I can always change back to the other frame mounts but then I would need to purchase the different motor mounts correct? Would this give me the clearance around my steering shaft?

 

Scroll up and look at the photo I posted. Then go back and re-read the part about "the crank centerline is in EXACTLY the same place".

 

OK I think I understand what you're saying is basically there is no way to mount it wrong if you are using the matching mounts . So the clearance problem with the #7 plug is normal ?

 

Yes, but you shouldn't need to pull the steering shaft.

 

I always just use the spark plug socket and an open end wrench to turn the socket. Limited space but not too painful.

 

Thanks everyone for the input. After a little fiddling I found I could get a socket on it if I turned the steering so the flat side of the collar lined up. Then it was the socket and wrench.

 

That's a lot better deal than the '67 & '68 Mustangs with the 390 & 428 "FE" engines.
You actually had to pull one motor mount loose, and jack up the motor, to change one of the plugs.

 

Beats changing plugs on a '77 Starfire with the 5.0 SBC engine. Had to cut holes in the inner fender to get to them. There are lots of vehicles with spark plug changes that are tougher than that. Be happy you can actually see your plugs.