Oil pump clearance issues

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Old Nov 26, 2017 | 11:44 AM
  #1  
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Oil pump clearance issues

I purchased this sealed power high-volume oil pump for my 455 build but it has a couple clearance issues.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-224-41203v

It's hitting the ARP main stud nut. I found a 12 point nut that is much smaller but I'm also having clearance issues with a rod cap, or I will if I get the pump to sit properly on the block.

The stock pump also has clearance issues with that stud nut but would not with rod cap.
Anyone know of a pump, preferable high-volume, that won't have the issues?








Old Nov 26, 2017 | 12:04 PM
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Try a Melling HV pump.
Old Nov 26, 2017 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyS
Try a Melling HV pump.
I thought about that, Randy. But I read, here on CO, that they are the same pump. I'll have a close look at the pics.
Old Nov 26, 2017 | 12:54 PM
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Look at the 2nd pic. M22FHV

Melling part # on Summit: M22FHV

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-m22fhv/reviews
Old Nov 26, 2017 | 01:37 PM
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A die grinder and about 2 minutes and problem solved.

Just be sure that the pump sits flush and tight to the cap.

That is a very tedious problem to fix once the engine is in the car.
Old Nov 26, 2017 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by My442
A die grinder and about 2 minutes and problem solved. Just be sure that the pump sits flush and tight to the cap.
X2. Melling/Sealed Power/Clevite are all the same pump.
Old Nov 26, 2017 | 02:04 PM
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Grinding down the pump housing yes? But in the two different spots? I'll take another look but I think I'll get into that axle behind the cotter pin before I get clearance there.
Surely you're not talking about grinding down the stud nut.

I don't suppose I could get away with (safely) a stock pump with just under 3k clearances at the crank. Closer to .0028". Less grinding on a stock pump.
Old Nov 26, 2017 | 02:17 PM
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Hmm, ya got me. Not sure why a bolt will clear with no problems but not a nut?
Old Nov 26, 2017 | 03:20 PM
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If you can fit the thickness of a tie wrap between the rod bolt and pump then you're finevthere.
As for the main nut clearance, disassemble the pump and grind it. It's not a difficult task. I do it on every engine I do.
Old Nov 26, 2017 | 04:03 PM
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Alright fellers, problem solved. It just took me a minute to wrap my head around grinding on a $100 part.
@Mark: Thanks, I was just going to ask that very question. I would say I have more than a ... wait...what's a tie wrap? A twist tie? Lol.
The counterweight became an issue as well but Had a lot of wall thickness to work with on that part of the pump.
I'm good to go now. Thanks guys! I guess this is the stuff they don't put in the CSM.
Old Nov 27, 2017 | 10:26 PM
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Check the video at the 4:50 time stamp. Bill Trovato covers this exact issue.


Last edited by cjsdad; Nov 27, 2017 at 10:29 PM.
Old Nov 28, 2017 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cjsdad
Check the video at the 4:50 time stamp. Bill Trovato covers this exact issue.

https://youtu.be/AkRQWjpK2Bw
Thanks "dad". I hadn't made it this far in the series so thanks for the reminder. And for the heads, back each bolt off of torque individually and retorque? Does that go for iron heads as well?
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