When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's hitting the ARP main stud nut. I found a 12 point nut that is much smaller but I'm also having clearance issues with a rod cap, or I will if I get the pump to sit properly on the block.
The stock pump also has clearance issues with that stud nut but would not with rod cap.
Anyone know of a pump, preferable high-volume, that won't have the issues?
Grinding down the pump housing yes? But in the two different spots? I'll take another look but I think I'll get into that axle behind the cotter pin before I get clearance there.
Surely you're not talking about grinding down the stud nut.
I don't suppose I could get away with (safely) a stock pump with just under 3k clearances at the crank. Closer to .0028". Less grinding on a stock pump.
If you can fit the thickness of a tie wrap between the rod bolt and pump then you're finevthere.
As for the main nut clearance, disassemble the pump and grind it. It's not a difficult task. I do it on every engine I do.
Alright fellers, problem solved. It just took me a minute to wrap my head around grinding on a $100 part.
@Mark: Thanks, I was just going to ask that very question. I would say I have more than a ... wait...what's a tie wrap? A twist tie? Lol.
The counterweight became an issue as well but Had a lot of wall thickness to work with on that part of the pump.
I'm good to go now. Thanks guys! I guess this is the stuff they don't put in the CSM.
Thanks "dad". I hadn't made it this far in the series so thanks for the reminder. And for the heads, back each bolt off of torque individually and retorque? Does that go for iron heads as well?