Intake bolts
#1
Intake bolts
Where can I get a set of intake bolts for a 455? 8 long ones, and 4 short ones? All I can find are small block kits with 9 long and 3 short. What does everyone here use?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
If you are using a cast iron intake new bolts can be gotten at most any hardware store, NAPA etc. Some aluminum intakes have special bolts since standard bolts (3/8" 16 threads per inch) may not clear in some locations.
#3
I'm using a performer intake. Are the hardware store stainless bolts strong enough? I would really like to use a 12 point head but can't find a kit of these.
Thanks
Thanks
#4
I have the same set up you do. I ended up going to a bolt supply with my intake and getting the grade 8 bolts and washers. I had gotten the black bolts with the head and washers in one peace. When I added a washer the bolts were to close to being to short. I called a dozen places and no one had a kit including ARP. So I just went to the bolt supply and got the g8's in gold finish they do not rust as fast as the other either. The bolt supply also had a nice 3/8" tork ratchet for $18. (best buy so far.) 35 ft lbs on the intake bolts.
S/S might work, just ask if they can take 35 ft lbs. I am sure they can, but 8's are stronger.
S/S might work, just ask if they can take 35 ft lbs. I am sure they can, but 8's are stronger.
Last edited by hamm36; December 30th, 2010 at 08:06 PM.
#6
I believe the stainless bolts actually have a higher tensile strength than grade 8 bolts. You should not have any problems using them. Stainless hardware is not cheap though. I use it on my truck a lot for its corrosion resistance.
#7
It has be 20 yrs since I worked in a hardware store. Maybe I remember it wrong about the tensile strength of the various bolts. For sure the black will rust.
I just had to check:
What About Stainless? Replacing the OEM-plated steel fasteners on the outside of the bike provides a good-looking, low maintenance cure for rusted nuts and bolts. When contemplating replacing OEM fasteners with stainless steel, remember that common stainless steel does not have the strength of common alloy steels and should not be used for critical, highly stressed applications. The stainless steel also has higher friction than steel does which gives less preload at the same torque. When in doubt, keep the OEM steel stuff for critical applications.
I just had to check:
What About Stainless? Replacing the OEM-plated steel fasteners on the outside of the bike provides a good-looking, low maintenance cure for rusted nuts and bolts. When contemplating replacing OEM fasteners with stainless steel, remember that common stainless steel does not have the strength of common alloy steels and should not be used for critical, highly stressed applications. The stainless steel also has higher friction than steel does which gives less preload at the same torque. When in doubt, keep the OEM steel stuff for critical applications.
Last edited by hamm36; February 15th, 2009 at 12:22 PM.
#8
Hamm You are right, you have to get the high grade stainless to get the tensile strength, otherwise somewhere around the equivalent of a grade 2-4 standard bolt. I was making an assumption off a conversation regarding some specialty type stuff that I talked to a rep about years ago, that stainless was stainless and better/stronger than steel. apparently incorrectly.
Last edited by csstrux; February 15th, 2009 at 12:35 PM.
#10
To reinforce the original statement -- get a bag of g8 bolts and be done with it. I spent days looking, maybe DSE has them. But fixing it for $15 was sweet compared to the $40 I spent on the black bolts that did not work. I can only wonder what they want for s/h on top of the set?
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