found an engine at a pick and pull.... D block E heads

its in a 66 toronado.

condition unknown.

whats it worth to pick myself?

im assuming its not original cause if they have the year right at the yard, i think it should have B heads right?

I can use this block for 425 or 455 ( or stroke higher ) right? same dimentions just different crank and rods?

but id prob try to keep the stock crank cause it should be forged right?


any way to id large valves by removing valve cover and not whole head?

let me know your thoughts... pretty excited...

( how do the 425 block compair to 455 for durability/wall thickness etc..?)

 

http://tech.classicoldsmobile.com/

Most of your questions can be answered from this part of the website.
Some times the research is the best part.
Be informed, just trying to help.

 

Sounds like a 455 out of a 70 toro to me.

 

I've done a descent amount of research and read most of the articles in the tech section.
My main question is what is it worth?
Side question is can I tell if its a large valve witout removing the head? I think this answer is no as the article said to measure the valves with calipers.

As for it sounding like its a 455 unless it was rebuilt as such, i dont see how it could be... It's definilty a "D" block.

Thanks in advance!

Tj

 

noone?

 

With "condition unknnown" It's hard to say.

 

being unknown i wouldnt pay more then $300 for it.

 

I agree on 300 unlessyou can hear it run.

 

Since E heads don't grow on D blocks, the engine has obviously been cobbled together. The first question is, what else was done to it, and how well. Note that the 455 uses different crank, rods, and pistons from the 425, due to the different compression height of the pistons.

 

so theoretically it could have been "cobbled" into a 455 as well? I could not turn the crank pulley by hand so i imagine it is seized. if someone has ben into it which is obvious by the heads, the fact that it may be seized AFTER a rebuild is concerning....

i think i can get it for 150-200... worth the risk?

Thanks for the replies! I greatly appreciate it.

 

150-200 sure thats worth the risk. Go get it! As long as you were planning on rebuilding it. Not looking for a runner.

 

Rusted seized and mechanically seized aren't even in the same ballpark!!
A swallowed valve can break a piston and wedge it tight, even cracking a cylinder!
Ask if you can pull the pan, so you won't be pulling something else, if you don't!

 

but if its rusted seized, do you think i could break it loose with a breaker bar and a 3/4" drive?
The more i think about it, i wonder why this car made it to the yard....no clear body damage. front clip was cut off so it must have been nice. some rust but nothing crazy...interior was snatched by someone... and it does have a tachometer that looks to me to be aftermarket... odo says 53k is without the hundreds digit...

Tj

 

nope, if it is rusted seized.

I have a streight 8 with the pistons "molded" in them
They are so seized by rust that even with a big hamer and a peace of iron it wil not get loose.

and i tried with a realy big hamer
but the pistons and engine are one piece now

if you might wrench on it, remove the valve covers and head.

 

My thought is tht if it is seized by rust- it should be salvagable but if it dropped a valve or something then I wont touch it with a 10 foot pole.

I'll try and take the heads off and have a look inside. I figure if it is seized by rust, as long as i'm boring it .030 or .060 anyway, it shouldn't really matter right? have you guys seen them so rusted that .060 wouldn't clean them up?

Tj