I have never pulled the engine out of my '66, and understandably, I am a little apprehensive about it. I yanked a 307 out of a LeSabre a few years back, but didn't care about it as much as this.

I have an engine leveler, but I realized that I couldn't use it. So, it was time to bust out the ole chain. Due to space limits, I am going to drop the trans first (or leave it in the car for now, I haven't decided yet) so it's just the engine that is in play here.

I criss crossed the chain in the middle, but I need to get a bigger hook. I was thinking of putting bolts in the chains at the hook so it won't slide on me.

Also, I think I may have to go all the way out to the 1/2 ton setting on the picker. That engine sits damn far back in the bay. Will that be a problem?

Any suggestions, even basic, would be appreciated.

I used a small washer then a big thick washer next to the chain. This should hold, right?

 

If anything I would say you have done more than is necessary. If the tranny is not out you might want to drop it to ease the engine removal not having the leveler. I cheat when I have it, but not when just using a chain.

 

Looks like 5/16" proof chain.

Use grade 8 bolts and thick washers.

You probably have 3X safety margin for the lift.

Just do not get under the engine at any point.

 

Make sure you have plenty of thread engagement on the bolts doing the lifting.
You're right, A couple of bolts are useful on each side of the hook to keep the chain from moving.
Since chains don't stretch, one of the two will do most of the work anyway, with the other stabilizing the engine and in place as a back-up if the primary failed.

 

The holes that I have chosen are not that deep. Should I just add washers or find deeper bolt holes? How deep should the bolts be?

I overlooked the bolt grade and am going to get 8's while I'm picking up my new hook.

 

The bolt holes are deep enough. The bolts themselves as long as they are grade 8 will handle the shear strength needed, just make sure the bolts are long enough to ingage all of the treads in the hole. If they are to long thats ok just add washers, better then to short. Because you are just pulling the engine the 1/2 ton setting will be plenty

 

I, myself would have left the intake on and use the carb mount plate.
I would lift the engine high enough to clear the mounts and put a jack under the trans for support and split the two. Pull the engine.
Then put a bar across the frame rails up against the trans and a couple of bolts thru the bell and let the trans rest on the bar.

Gene

 

Yea, I took off the intake trying to make the stupid engine leveler to work. I wasn't sure if I should have used the carb mounts or not. Would have I just ran the chain on the top and hooked there? It's a two barrel and I do need to put the engine back in.

I was going to drop the trans while supporting the engine with the hoist. I don't really need to do anything to it, except clean it up and throw a coat of paint on it. Due to tight space, I need to roll the car as well as the hoist.

What did I get myself into!

 

When I said use the carb flange, you buy a lift plate that bolts to the manifold carb flange and lift the engine with it. Don't bolt a chain to the carb studs.
Like I said, lift the engine, put a bar across the frame rails, the bar up against the trans and two bolts thru the bell housing and rest the bolts & trans on the bar. Lift the engine,Then push the car back. Done deal.

Gene

 

The crossing chains are overkill IMO...I use one chain from front corner to rear corner opposite side. If trans is left in, support it as it will want to nose dive. Remove shift linkage to trans so movement wont damage seal there are so you wont bend linkage. If you support trans with blocks you wont be able to roll car....something to think about.

 

may be a little over kill.

i don't recommend it but a guy at work just uses a fan belt looped around a bolt front and back on opposite sides. he is not lifting the transmission with the engine, just the engine by itself.

 

Oldsguy and I removed and installed an engine in my 71 98 over the July 4th holiday. I should post some pics later...

Anyways, when removing the old engine we just used the long starter bolts threaded into the heads through the intake manifold. Talk about doing it the "redneck" way. We were lucky that thing didn't fall and crash to the ground.

Then again, my dad is a US Navy Chief, I am an Eagle Scout, and the guy with the red beard was helping us.

 

Olds64,

Can't get that picture out of my head, Who was holding the beer? Red beard the Navy Chief eagle scout?

 

You're good to go.
I've pulled motors out with GM seat belts and 2 "grade chinesium" bolts before.

Would I recommend it on a nice car?......not so much.

Works great at the junkyard though.

Parts required: 2 bolts, 1 seat belt, 1 8' 4x4 Oak timber, 4 hillbillies who can lift with their legs.

 

Success. Thank you guys for the help. It is now safely residing on its engine stand and the garage is a complete disaster.

Everything went swimmingly.

I was freaking the whole time it was hanging in the breeze though.

Safe and sound. Phew!



It seems so empty now.



Them's some big holes



'B' heads, awaiting the trip to the shop.

 

Found out what was causing that awful rattle.

 

"Egge" or "Kanter" will most likely the place to find pistons you need.

Do you plan to bore the block or just replace the one?

Gene

 

Depends on how the bores measure out. I'm wondering if the other pistons could suffer from the same fate as that one, so I may replace them all.

I don't have a mic set so I'm going to entrust my machine shop's judgment on what the best course of action is.

Oddly enough, I was just trolling Kanter's site, I never heard of Egge, and I'm heading over there now.

Thanks.

 

Go with forged pistons. They hold up better in the long run.

Use .004" clearance instead of the .002" that the piston manufacturer recommends.

 

I suggest the TRW L2323F pistons. They are reasonably priced forged pistons.