I bought the 1000lb engine stand from Harbor Freight to mount my engine to for a rebuild. However, I'm not sure what bolts to use. I will get Grade 8 bolts and will be sure to use plenty of washers, but exactly what size/length bolt should I get?

Thanks.

Steve

 

Sounds like you don't have a bucket of bolts. Every mechanic needs one! ;-) Don't know the size of thread but see if you have one laying around that will thread so you can get the size. Definitley get Grade 8 and the bolt will probably be a 4-5in depending on how long the sleeves are on the stand. Key is to makesure it threads in deep or bottoms out into the block so you don't run the risk or stripping threads. I use washers between the block/stand and bolt head/stand. .

 

Also get a bunch of hardened washers. Beside using behind the bolt head, you might need a couple extra if a bolt bottoms out before it's tight.

 

I get nervous about hanging the engine by the bellhousing bolts, due to weight, leverage, and possible warping of the block. Except when I am rotating the block--I never have more than a short block on the engine stand and I use the 2000 pound version--I use a T shaped front support (from the front legs of the stand to the block) that I made from box tubing so the weight is distributed. Definitely use new Grade 8 bolts from a quality source.

 

I use old rocker arm hardware to shim engine bolts,when mounting the engine to the stand.
you'll want some clearance in case you need access to the rear of the block.
You'll usually need long bolts to clear the mounting head.

 

NOOOOOOOO!!!!!

If you are suggesting spacing between the block and the spider of the engine stand, DO NOT DO THIS! The further you space the block, the greater the bending load on the bolts and the bellhousing face of the block. Bad, bad idea.

 

I may be a Nervous Nellie, but I don't assemble an engine on a stand. I put the block on a 55 gallon empty drum, install the crank, and then flip it so the bellhousing end is on the drum. All the time I have a strong come along and chain going to the block, using the engine mount holes, or 3/8" holes in the front. I have seen what happens when a short block gets loose, and it isn't pretty. When I say I flip the block, I have plenty of come along, chain, etc. keeping it from getting loose.

You can't be too safe. If you haven't used that 1000 lb. stand, consider returning it and paying the small premium for the 2000 lb model, even though you will probably ot put over 500 lb or so (a short block) on it. I run a tap through the bellhousing bolt holes and select engine stand bolts that catch virtually all of those threads.

 

Maybe I've been lucky, but I have always used grade 5 bolts and have never had a problem.

 

Wow some of the replies above show a marked lack of understanding of engineering principles and strength of materials. I'll not name names here, but damn. Example: imagine if the stand is secured to the floor so it can't tip over. Now you add spacers between engine and stand spider. More. Until it fails somewhere. Let's say 4 ft of spacers. Where will the stand fail, and by what manner? Right. It's all about the bending moment.

Bolts is no place to skimp. Grade 2 will do, but if the day ever comes when you exceed the strength of the grade 2... your grade 8's will not have a problem. Grade 8's are better in every significant way, and you need what, FOUR of them? Splurge. Better yet, get socket head cap screws and double thick washers. Check Fastenal.com or your local hardware supplier. Length- enough to go thru your stand's accommodating part, and your washers, and whatever spacers you are using, plus oh at least 1/2" into the block. More than 3 threads is overkill, and this is a good place for overkill. Too long, and it may hit the block- easily remedied with your cutoff tool- cut the bolt, not the block!

You can put all the spacers you want between the stand spider and the motor. 1/4" pipe nipples for example. It will put more bending moment on the stand's upright at the head junction, though. This is where the larger stand is better. Cheap small ones will readily bend so the motor hangs down a bit as soon as you put a real [Olds] v8 on 'em. Be sure the wheels are all metal. These stands are made for use in a garage, not for transport in a vehicle bumping down the road.

I made my own stands a few yrs ago, used 3x3 tubing, and about 4" round for the head, with an infinitely adjustable pinching type orientation holder. Because I was making it myself, I made it to use GM starter bolts [Gr. 8] for the block to stand bolts. This provides room for even an MT flywheel in there.

Do tap the holes in the block FIRST, and oil them... as you will do with ALL the threaded holes in your engine, right?

Also I have found it a LOT easier to put the loose spider on the block, loosely, with movable arms, then center the rotational pipe and secure the arms to the block and the stand head. THEN put that assembly in the stand. Better yet, lift the stand if it's light enough and put the STAND base onto the stand spider/ engine assembly, then lift the thing up until the stand swings down towards the floor, then lower it to the floor.