Is it a good idea to leave the "hump" between the top n bottom sumps or cut out part of the ridge/hump, weld in a "flat section " with low sides on it and give the oil the ability to drain freely between top n bottom.
I imagine if this is a good idea (please tell me !) then the pan when welded would need to be ' supported ' to avoid buckling.?2 questions here really

cheers
mike

 

As you might have guessed, the hump is only there to provide clearance for the Toro's RH axle shaft. It's one of the fundamental problems with that pan - oil gets trapped in the front. Flattening the hump is a good idea. Bolt the pan to a block while welding to prevent warpage.

 

Joe, tx --good idea bolting pan to block
mike

 

would you recommend welding in a peice, or just beating it into the desirec shape with a hammer & a dolly? (still using bracing between the bolt holes of course)

Also, probably a stupid question, but do toros have a specific dipstick & tube, or will the regular one work?

Thanks-
Ben

 

Flattening the humb eliminates potental leaks from porous welds, but it's hard to hammer from the inside with the pan bolted to a block. No matter what dipstick you use, it will probably be incorrect if you modify the pan. The best thing to do is install the pan, fill it with oil, run the engine for a few minutes then let it sit for a while so the oil drains back, THEN check the level on the dipstick. Scribe a new mark where the oil level is and you're done.

 

I would recommend using another pan.Having that type of pan up tight to the crank does not make power.Back in the late '90's,there were some dyno pulls being done on a healty 455.It originally had the Toro pan on it,as that was another one of Mondello's bogus tips.The toro pan was swapped for a regular 455 pan,and it picked-up a little over 10HP.The same oil was even reused,just to keep everything fair.
If you look at the high-dollar race pans,you will see that they are big & bulky around the crank.Yes,you need to lubricate the bearing,but you also need to get the flying oil away from the crank.
I really don;t think the Toro pan holds that much more oil capacity anyway.If you really want more quarts,and don't want to buy a new pan,take a regular stock pan,slice the bottom off,and weld a band around the pan & the lower sump,letting you place the bottom section lower than it was,to hold more oil.Cheap,but effective.

 

I've poured fluid in the Toro pan, it holds more.
But Brian if you look at the aftermarket pans they have to hug the crank in the front too otherwise they don't clear the crossmember.

BTR restarted the rumor on the Toro pan but when asked if he took the hump out I never heard him answer. I also looked in his book, nothing there either.
If you take out the hump it's an inexpensive way to increase oil capacity without any hp loss. Again if you look at the front section of various pans I think you'll see no appreciable difference. Taking the hump out is easier for most people than cutting and welding on one.

 

The toro pan is still tighter in the front than a normal pan.One slight ding it it will cause the crank to hit it.Your Milodon & Moroso pans have the same front as the normal 455 pans,and those are fine,but the custom pans I was referring too have wider,bulkier fronts,and sometimes have the right side kicked-out.I did the mock-up work for the aluminum Moroso pans,with all the bells & whistles,and they will fit in an unmodified crossmember.I kept sending it back until it was right.That pan isn't for everyone though.It's about $900.00
You could also look at a marine/boat pan,that looks like a bathtub.It's about the same in the front as it is in the back.Those are great for dyno work,but would never fit in anything that has a crossmember under it.

 

My $$ are limited so i'll probably try it since i already have it sitting here and no other pan options.

I figured i would use some thick strap steel, bolt across the opening to keep the pan square, then pound/dolly down the hump, at least in the middle to create a drainback spot to the sump...

When i get around to it i'll take some pics.

 

That's understandable.Another thing I should mention is the clearance with the mains.If you are planning on running main studs,they can hit the pan,depending on how far the stick out above the nut.You absolutely can NOT run any of the aftermarket main straps with the Toro pans.If you are just using stock bolts,or ARP bolts,you will be fine.

 

Thankyou Brian .
Bolts will do me fine I am sure .Eliminates all the "what ifs"

I was intrigued by the dyno tests showing a difference of 10 hp from a toro and stock 455 pan .will sit on that one for a while .

cheers
mike

 

I also planning to use the toro pan and I´m thinking of welding in a drain pipe between the tub in front, and the rear pan. That shouldn´t be so much work. Smaller chance of warping the pan rails.

Stanley

 

Bolt it across the top and take a rosebud (torch) to it to heat it and shape it from there.

 

X2 easy peasy

 

I have used a welded in piece of sheet metal and the rosebud torch to heat it red hot and a piece of pipe and a hammer to flatten the hump. The latter is easier, and I have done it successfully without bolting the pan to anything.
I just now measured a 66-7 Toro pan and a 442 pan and the Toro is aobut 1/4" deeper under the crank in the front area. It also has a nice scraper that can be bent to get closer to the crank. The box part for the scraper will get close to 66-7 steering inner tie rods, but can be dented slightly if desired.