toro 455 stuck valves...guides?
#1
toro 455 stuck valves...guides?
Hi Guys, I pulled a head to get at a sticky valve on my 1970 toro and was thinking when I pulled that valve...where's the valve guide? I don't see one...Don't these 455 toros have valve guides? or am I blind?...thanks now!...
#5
I'm not sure if the original valve guides were bronze or iron/steel.
Talking about replaceable valve guides is sort of odd to me. I rebuilt the heads on my dads 455 and replaced all the valve guides by drilling out the old ones and pressing in and cutting new ones.
Talking about replaceable valve guides is sort of odd to me. I rebuilt the heads on my dads 455 and replaced all the valve guides by drilling out the old ones and pressing in and cutting new ones.
Last edited by Olds64; November 18th, 2009 at 02:37 PM.
#6
Oldsmaniac's reply sounds right for my application , things can change year to year to model to model with all manufacturers, I'm no virgin and have seen many heads naked and guides are visible...normally, that's why I posted...thanks, cliff
#7
The stock heads had neither a press-in valve guide nor knurling. The valves simply rode on the cast iron surface. Oil leaking past the valve seals and lead in the gasoline combined to provide lubrication. If the "guide" (actually, just the bored hole) is excessively worn or damaged, you can either knurl the I.D. of the hole and ream to size, or you can bore and install aftermarket bronze guides.
#8
#9
#10
Thats another reason I posted...after seeing guides listed for 455 olds's at parts stores I had to rethink this and then posted... mine, I would describe as a little sloppy, normal for a car showing 84k original miles...I will clean it up and put it back together...the carbon can take it's rightful place, taking up the slack and forget it...the reason It was stuck is the 30 years this car sat....thanks again guys!....cliff
#11
I am certain the heads I have looked at had a spiral design in the valve guides.
#12
That is not technically a knurl, but was from the tooling to size the guides.
Knurling will typically leave a spiral 2-3 times tighter, and leave less metal supporting the valve stem. All assembly line heads had the loose spiral.
ALL factory guides were sized from the cast iron material that comprised the original head casting. Any replaceable guide will require you to drill the head.
Now, how did you stick this valve???
Jim
Knurling will typically leave a spiral 2-3 times tighter, and leave less metal supporting the valve stem. All assembly line heads had the loose spiral.
ALL factory guides were sized from the cast iron material that comprised the original head casting. Any replaceable guide will require you to drill the head.
Now, how did you stick this valve???
Jim
#13
Thanks for clearing things up on the spiral, and also according to the factory shop manual the spiral was intentional and not just coincidental to provide lubrication and control oil as well. A worn guide should be reamed and then valves with thicker stems used. It states that should the spiral be completely removed it could cause a lack of lubrication to the valve stem..
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