Hi. Has anyone used Tall Valve Covers on a Big Block in a 68-72 A-Body car... with Air Conditioning? I'm concerned about the valve cover to A/C box clearance. Specifically Procomp (aka Speedmaster) SDM-PCE314117101, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDM-PCE314117101 My engine is out of the car, so I can't check before putting it back in.

Thanks in advance.

 

Will the rear AC bracket fit over those?

 

No the bracket won't fit over the tall cover. That's not my primary concern, because I'm not installing the compressor at this time. The car has the A/C box, which I won't remove.
I just need to know if there will be clearance between the tall valve cover and the A/C box.
Thanks.

 

Those are listed as baffled covers but they are not. They sucked me in by the false advertisement and wouldn't take them back, this was there ebay listing.

 

You may need to consider brake booster clearance too?

 

^ THIS
Those valve covers are why I went with manual disc brakes.

 

I have used those on my build. They barely clear the booster. I had to notch the alternator bracket to fit. I have air, but went with Vintage Air, so the box wasn't an issue.

 

There's no way those would fit on a big block with A/C on the passenger side. The stock valve covers, which are quite short, are notched from the factory specifically for clearance. Sure, the factory is giving enough room to ""easily"" service them, but still. Add the extra height and no notch and it's just not happening.

 

Already planned around that. Removed the booster and I'm converting to manual disc brakes.

 

Nice looking build you have there.
I'm relocating my alternator. Just need to figure out the A/C box clearance.

 

You're probably right. I just had to ask before I gave up on the possibility. Thx.

 

A different perspective on the same issue:
Would someone please give me a couple measurements off their car, clearance from factory valve covers to the A/C box? Thanks!

 

Can't help on that one considering mine is long gone, but knowing the size of the box and where it sat....pretty sure these are a "no go" unless you swap to a Vintage Air unit that doesn't need the box.

 

I remember someone posted about "notching" the AC box to provide clearance. That involved removing and modifying the box. It may be a lot of work, but it is a possibility.

 

For the brakes go with manual and add hydroboost - you won't be disappointed. My brakes are amazing.
For the AC get the aluminum compressor and you can remove the rear/over the valve cover bracket completely.
For the AC box it can be modified - lots of work but it can be done.
Don't have the super tall valve covers but you can see the hydroboost/manual brakes and no rear AC bracket. This is a 6 speed manual car with lots of 6k RPM shifts and that AC compressor never moves or has any issues. It's 20+ lbs lighter then stock but looks the same.

Edit: compressor details: aluminum Compressor (Old Air Products) - A6 - Pro6ten - 21 lbs lighter than stock (15lbs vs 36). Oh I don't think they sell them in black anymore so you may have to paint it if you want the stock look. You can also get the red sticker added if you want it to look even more stock.

-Joe

 

I would try notching those new valve covers before I'd cut up my A/C box.
It would be a walk in the park for a good fabricator.

 

Appreciate the suggestions!
I had no idea there was an aluminum compressor option. What refrigerant do you use? I heard R12 was impossible to find for less than ridiculous prices.
Beautiful engine bay, btw. Nice work.

 

Yes... I'd go this way if it comes to it. Notch the covers before cutting the original A/C box.
Thanks.

 

If you’re not going to use the A/C, why not remove the evaporator/box and install the aftermarket “delete” cover?

 

Thanks - I converted mine to R134. Here are all the details including some pricing from a few years back, and some part #s and contacts:Factory appearing with R134 conversion – aluminum Compressor (Old Air Products) - A6

Pro6ten - 21 lbs lighter than stock (15lbs vs 36). Parallel flow 6mm condenser {part #11-803P $280}

w/6 rectangular tubes (like all new cars AC) vs. one round tube (stock) from Classic auto air for

134 conversion Ron from CAA {866 294 9934 or 877 342 5526 x7022} Receiver/Dryer # 12-202S $49,

Hoses #13801 $349, POA valve – new $190 (w/$75 core refund)

 

Good question.
1. It's a numbers matching car. I have every part on a shelf. I don't want to bugger it up too much by cutting or removing the A/C box.
2. I might reinstall the A/C on this engine at a later date. I have all the parts, so I won't buy an aftermarket kit if I don't need to.

 

Another option is to go with a serpentine kit combined with that aftermarket Vintage air AC company. That would allow you to go with no ac box and have a "flat" firewall. All the AC hoses can be hidden up in the fender. Might be easier then trying all the other mods. I have some pics saved somewhere of a few olds motors running that setup. If I find them I'll post here.

Edit: here's one example. This is the CVF serpentine kit with AC on the front of an Olds motor. Note the flat firewall but I believe this requires you to run the Vintage air ac which changes the panel from factory inside too.

 

Awesome details. Appreciate you taking the time to share it! (Screenshot for future)

 

Here's the same CVF kit in chrome (I like the black better) but keeping the AC box. This setup looks closer to factory. I believe if you keep the ac box you can keep the factory panel on the inside for AC/Heat adjustments but not sure on that. I'm sure Vintage air could confirm everything.