Stupid Head Gaskets !!
Stupid Head Gaskets !!
Anyone had problems with Felpro Head gaskets leaking externally (mine at the back side on both) using ARP 7/16 bolts ( 70 455 Olds).
This is the second time on 2 different engines. I assembled the first one and the Engine shop the latest one. Went with a different brand gasket on the first one which solved the problem(Company now bankrupt and I cant recall the brand but they were not cheap). Not even sure I got 1K miles on it this time before they started leaking.
Losing 1/2 qt of oil every 400 miles from the passenger rear side and a jug of coolant every 1000 miles or so from the drivers rear side. Took a while to figure out where it was coming from and its for sure the head gaskets.
Anyone had success resealing gaskets by retorquing the heads?
Nothing appears to be getting in the Oil or cylinders.
Geez what a PO
This is the second time on 2 different engines. I assembled the first one and the Engine shop the latest one. Went with a different brand gasket on the first one which solved the problem(Company now bankrupt and I cant recall the brand but they were not cheap). Not even sure I got 1K miles on it this time before they started leaking.
Losing 1/2 qt of oil every 400 miles from the passenger rear side and a jug of coolant every 1000 miles or so from the drivers rear side. Took a while to figure out where it was coming from and its for sure the head gaskets.
Anyone had success resealing gaskets by retorquing the heads?
Nothing appears to be getting in the Oil or cylinders.
Geez what a PO
Re-torqueing a head gasket after the engine has been warmed up and ran was practically a requirement 40 years ago.
I still like to do it when practical, although most head gasket makers say it isn't necessary.
Of course I'm sure you know that the head bolts must be torqued in the proper sequence. Starting from the center and working out.
Another little trick that I picked up over the years was to torque all the head bolts to one third of their final torque. Then torque them to two-thirds of their final torque. Then torque them to their final recommended torque.
And finally, go around the torque pattern again just to make sure you didn't miss a bolt.
Did you check your heads with a straightedge and a .001 feeler guage?
I still like to do it when practical, although most head gasket makers say it isn't necessary.
Of course I'm sure you know that the head bolts must be torqued in the proper sequence. Starting from the center and working out.
Another little trick that I picked up over the years was to torque all the head bolts to one third of their final torque. Then torque them to two-thirds of their final torque. Then torque them to their final recommended torque.
And finally, go around the torque pattern again just to make sure you didn't miss a bolt.
Did you check your heads with a straightedge and a .001 feeler guage?
The current engine was done by a local builder with a good rep so Im not sure what he did. Im hoping for a miracle but know in the back of my mind that the heads are gonna have to come off... Don't mind pulling them..its the readjusting the valves that I hate the most..
I had the same problem, turned out the machine shop left the decks and heads too rough for a good seal. I had to pull the motor down, and resurface the decks and heads. I'm using Cometic head gaskets.
It's not really going to cost you anything to re-torque the heads. Except for a little time. You may get lucky and solve your problem.
If you have solid lifters then I would definiately check the valve lash, and re- adjust if necessary.
If you have solid lifters then I would definiately check the valve lash, and re- adjust if necessary.
The current engine was done by a local builder with a good rep so Im not sure what he did. Im hoping for a miracle but know in the back of my mind that the heads are gonna have to come off... Don't mind pulling them..its the readjusting the valves that I hate the most..
Adjusting the valves???
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gearheads78
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Dec 18, 2009 06:15 AM



