mhouston44

I have tried searching the site but no clear answers. I am getting my engine redone and im looking at somewhere around 450 hp and 500ft-lbs. At what point do you want to replace the balancer? I still have the stock balancer and would like to know the advantages of going to an aftermarket balancer for my application which is street mostly. not going to see a whole lot of track time. I dont want to drop the money if i dont have to but i definately dont want to skimp now and ruin all the work that my engine is getting. Any help would be appreciated.

oddball

Just take a good look at the rubber. If it's cracking and dried up, then it needs to either be rebuilt or replaced. Also verify that the slot actually indicates TDC.
I don't think HP is a big deal for the balancer. It's more about RPMs. So for a track-only car, you'd want an SFI balancer. For a driver that sees the track every now and then, a stock or similar replacement is fine.

Run to Rund

If your car runs 10.99 or better, NHRA requires an SFI approved balancer.

380 Racer

Saw a Firebird street/strip running low 11s at my home track once that lost the balancer (which means pullys also) and they beat him to the 60' lights. He was lucky it didn't bounce off the track and up into the hood. SBC in case that means anything.

Run to Rund

Exactly. If your hood, fenders, or radiator are rare, special, valuable, an SFI balancer could be worth the money even if your car doesn't run 10s.

mhouston44

Well I'd really hate to have to replace this w30 hood certainly. The car will max out 5500 rpm and not for any long periods. It's sounding like good insurance to upgrade the balancer. Any recommendations that have worked for you all in the past? Is the professional products balancer garbage?

Run to Rund

I am using Pro Race, but you can go onto Summit or Jegs and see what is available in SFI approved balancers vs. price. The good ones will have timing marks every 90 degrees plus plenty around TDC, making it easier to set timing accurately (if you carefully locate TDC), and to adjust solid lifters, etc.

mhouston44

i read on another post on here about the press on vs loose fit. I am only familiar with the one i took off. Is there any particular damper that fits better than another? I guess the ones i would be looking at would be the Professional Products 90022, ATI Performance products 918790 or 917841. Those are just three of the lower end SFI approved items on summit. Any experience with the fit or function of these three? Which is recommended? I have a manual transmission and i know the crank is a little different from an auto, will that make a difference on which damper i select?

Run to Rund

My Pro Race is slip on. All Olds dampers were slip on through the 394 engine, but the newer stuff went to press on. I have no issues because 160 ft lb on the bolt clamps the damper well.