Last year I replaced the head gaskets on the 330 in my Cutlass and found out that the engine is very tired and worn. I wanted to pick up a decent running engine to use while I rebuilt the 330 but I found a 455 so I will use the running 330 while I build the 455. Best laid plans and all that. You go with what comes along. Anyway, I found a 455/TH-400 combo for $200 and figured it was a good place to start. I promise, there is actual machinery under all that dirt and grime!
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After a session with the pressure washer, it even looks like an engine. It is out of a '70 Olds 98, low performance 2-barrel. But I'm sure it needs rebuilding so the insides can be changed out easily. I haven't taken the time to research the cylinder head options for the big Olds engines so what is the potential for the E heads? I would love to end up with a 350~400 HP engine. Street and cruising use only. I have never taken a car to the track so I don't think this car will ever see one either. Suggestions and bench racing is accepted and appreciated before I make final plans. Since I now have a TH-400 and a TH-200r4 I have options for the trans. Both at this point need to be rebuilt so that also needs to be discussed.

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If the E heads are big valve they are just as good as other iron heads for the street. I think a performer intake works very well for the street. I have used one for years. Over drive would be cool for a street ride. I myself use a turbo 400 I have drove 1970 442 over a hundred miles one way a couple times and back home. Normal amount is 40 to 50 round trip.Nearest track is about 45 miles one way. I think you got a very good deal on the 455 trans combo. Not going to happen around here very often. I got lucky like that one time 2007.Good luck with your build.

 

Wouldn't 2bbl automatically indicate small valves?

 

Probably, and because it's me, more than likely. Can they be "massaged" to make them more street aggressive? Can they reach the 350~400 HP level without large valves? Inquiring minds want to know.

 

Yes with a Performer intake, 9.5-10.0:1 and a cam in the high 220's@.050.

 

If it is motor that wasn't changed since new i would agree. I think i said if big valves. If leaves leeway that somewhere in this engines life someone may have changed the heads. May have changed the intake also. I don't know.

 

You have the long tailshaft turbo 400. To install it in your Cutlass you were going to have to have a new driveshaft made because the Jetaway trans is shorter. Possibly you could trade it for a short tailshaft version at a tranmission shop. Either way you'll have to move the trans crossmember back a little. You could use the long tailshaft version by having an even shorter driveshaft made but the crossmember will have to be farther back than with a short tailshaft trans. Usually the two barrel 455s had small intake and exhaust valves; 1.99"/1.6' vs. 2.07"/1.66". The E heads are pretty good and a machine shop could open up the bowls to accomodate a new set of larger valves. Many shops regard valves as a wear item that should be replaced anyway. The 455 is heavier than the 330 so you'll need new front springs. An aluminum radiator should be adequate to cool the new larger engine. You may be able to reuse the 330 accessory brackets on the 455 with longer belts. WEhat color are you going to paint the engine? 455 electric blue, 442 big block bronze? Small block gold? i vote for the bronze. Carb, intake and cam choice are up to your personal preference and intended use.

 

Right now I am leaning towards the BB Bronze. The 455 was not available in '67, but a period correct engine color is always nice to look at.

Performer intake seems to be a popular choice for street/cruiser type engines so that is probably what I will go with. I have always had good luck with the Q-Jet carbs but some of the newer carbs have advancements that look good so that is still up in the air.

I will check on that when I get the engine opened up and begin the assembly process. If I go with a larger cam will roller-tip rockers be a must? The rockers are pretty worn on the 330 so I was wondering about going in that direction anyway. Anyone have a shop recommendation in the Albuquerque area?

If I go with the TH-400 I will probably go back to the wrecking yard and get the driveshaft from the donor vehicle and have it shortened. If I go with the 200r4 I think the existing driveshaft will work. It will cost a LOT more to go with the 200r4 though so I may use the 400 for a while. It is already an upgrade from the Jetaway.

Already working on both of these.

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I am camshaft illiterate so that is not clear to me. I understand the concept of dialing in a cam but have never done it so any further explanation on the cam needs for small valves vs. large valves would be greatly appreciated. This will also be my first Olds rebuild so the limitless SBC info available is now meaningless.

 

Use an Erson TQ50 which has specs of 228/235@.050, .504 lift and you'll make your number with the Performer intake etc.

 

Got it! I can follow instructions with the best! But can somebody please explain what these numbers mean in the realm of a reciprocating engine? I understand what valve lift, lobe separation angle, and duration mean individually, but I don't understand how they work together to effect engine performance. Obviously valve lift alone doesn't make a camshaft mild or wild. What would the specs be on a factory cam and what would be the difference with the Erson?

 

Take pics of everything, esp. where it attatches. Where spacers are at- the PS brkts esp.

Keep track of EVERY PART
That little solenoid on the intake? I hear the BB mtg brkt is different and folks seek and will pay for that.

Why not just take the TH400 to your local independent trans shop and say "please rebuild this, and make it a short shaft!" Once it's apart, and the pcs are handy, it is no more than the rebuild otherwise.

The heads are fine candidates. Can be fitted for the larger BB OAI valves. Grind away part of that E and voila you have W30 F heads- at first glance.

Lucky you, a 2-bbl... might even have the forged crankshaft.

The "How Cams Work" is two books, at least. This is probably not the best place/ thread to have that discussion.

A new thread at least. Surely there are lots of youtube videos and the like that explain the interactions of now lift and duration affect breathing, and why we don't just use "as much as you can get" all the time on every engine.

 

On a side note thinking ahead, use 330 motor mounts once you install the 455 or you could have hood cleanace issues.

 

I started taking the engine apart today and was amazed at how clean it was inside. The 330 was sludged up pretty badly, but this engine is immaculate inside by comparison.

This is the dirty (driver's) side.

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And the clean (passenger) side.

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There is some surface rust on the cylinder walls that I hope will clean up because there is virtually no wear in the bores at all. If they will clean up, I might be able to get by without having to bore it out. There was one problem that reared it;s ugly head though, see if you can spot it.

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Surprisingly the piston didn't get damaged much by the disappearing valve head.

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A small piece of the valve stem was left behind. I have no idea how it didn't destroy the piston and head, it must have been hiding in the exhaust port and then fell back onto the piston where I found it when I removed the head.

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The head gaskets were in great shape by the seal patterns on the block and heads.

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I like taking apart old engines, discovering the stories they tell.

If I understand correctly, the valve head is missing? And only a little piece of stem left? Thats crazy. Only one place to go...out the tail pipe.

 

Looks like a very good core. Congrats!

 

Today I was able to get the engine separated from the transmission and on the engine stand. I was also able to get everything off the block including the dipstick tube. Everything about this engine appears to be unmolested. Behind the timing cover I actually found a complete, unbroken synthetic camshaft timing gear. I have never seen one whole before, probably because I have never needed to take the timing cover off of one that wasn't worn out or damaged to the point of breaking. Behold the mysterious, unbroken synthetic timing gear.

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Wow... Never seen one in one piece.

Amazing valve head mistery

 

Looks like an awesome find, with some an interesting story to boot!

If you are looking for head research-

http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofhed.htm

Did the donor car not have a hood?!

 

I picked up a set of G heads, and one combustion chamber had a huge piece of casting slag in it.

The compression ratio for that cylinder must have been 13 to 1.

 

Once I had the engine on the stand I moved some pieces around to organize the parts and pieces. When I picked the exhaust manifold up a bunch of junk fell out including the valve head pieces. Looks like it broke cleanly and went out the exhaust port without too much damage. Doesn't look like it took too many hits, just broke and was spit out the hole. I'm thinking that was the reason the car was abandoned because it doesn't look like it ran much at all after the valve broke. Probably why the valve pieces were still inside the manifold.

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Looks like you found a good core. Cool story too. My best recomendation for you would be to finish stripping every thing, then take the bare heads and block to a compitent machine shop to have them thoroughly checked for cracks or other problems. If it were me, I would start with new aftermaret pistons, fresh bore job, proper cam for your goals, good head work, and all the best components you can afford. The machine work is just as important as good quality parts. Remember your engine builder does not have to be the same guy who is machining everything. That person is responsible for checking to make sure all the machine work was done properly.
Good luck with your project.
Thanks for sharing, Dave - The Freak

 

Good info and thanks! I did have to remove the hood from the car to get the engine out. The carb was missing but everything else looks to be completely unmolested. Doesn't look like a single bolt has ever been turned on this engine. The exhaust manifolds still had their bolt retainers intact and the bolts came out cleanly. Maybe the layer of dirt all over the engine has protected it from hard rust, dunno.