I am looking for rockers and still having trouble understanding what i need. I was looking at the Harland Sharp S50026A or SH50026A for the 5/16 stud. This engine will have a roller cam and i think the open spring pressure will 350lbs. Are the S50026A ok or do i have to run the SH50026A?

http://www.harlandsharp.com/amc_jeep_olds.htm

Next are the ploy locks, Do these come with the short ones to clear stock valve covers or do i have to buy those separate? Even with the short locks, do i have to remove the baffles inside the covers?

Is there another (cheeper) good roller rocker option for the stock 5/16 stud and 350 open spring pressure that fits under stock covers? I want this engine right but don't want to throw money away on something that is not needed or over kill for the application. I know this has been discussed but i just can't find what i am looking for?

 

for the engine build, It will have stock W-30 heads, Intake and exhaust manifolds with just a little less compression than stock. Upgrades will be all roller and a little lighter rotating assembly. hoping the cam can be made to still get me close to 500 torque?...

 

Call Harland Sharp, they have a very good tech.

 

I am going to go with Harland Sharp S50026A. Anyone know where to get a deal on them? Most of the time the manufacturer is higher than other places but from what i am seeing it is $25 cheaper to buy direct from Harland Sharp. Summit and Jegs are higher and i don't see them listed anywhere else.

 

Eric, get them direct from Harland Sharp. If you call and talk to Randy Jr. he may give you an even better deal, just know that he doesn't normally deal with sales. I spoke with him regarding the rip off Mondildo "HS" set and in the end he sold me a set of 5016's for way cheaper than I could get anywhere else.

Even without talking to Randy Jr. their website is still the cheapest place to get them.

 

A lot of people have successfully enlarged the stud threads in stock Olds heads from 5/16" to 7/16" although the head isn't real thick. I would be concerned about using a 5/16" stud, but I guess it is not big deal for only 350 lb. springs. I have run more than that with stock rockers where the bolts aren't intended to flex. So have NHRA stockers (500 lb. or so open pressure). What is wrong with stock rockers for your application?

 

HS has been great with their customer service. I asked if I could buy one 1.7 ratio rocker to test for fitment before I bought a set and no problem. Once I make my decision they would sell me 15 more 1.7's or a full set of the 1.6's. The price was not as much as you'd expect through them also.

 

I have 5016s on my engine that were bought direct.

 

This will be on F heads and i don't want to cut on them anywhere. Harland Sharp said i should not have to cut anything and even the push rods should not have any interference with the heads.

As far as stock rockers.... Maybe my goals are a little off but i want the most i can get from a 455 with stock F heads, intake , and exhaust manifolds but also be able to get out on the highway and drive to California with the A/C on. I want complete reliability but be able to get the most from the engine i can. I will also have it tuned on the dyno so i don't have to do any tuning (that i suck at) over new fenders or core support. what are your thought on my goals? and please be honest, i can take it.

 

Given your goals, I'd rather have stock rockers and a well broken in flat tappet cam, either hydraulic or solid lifters, than a bunch of needle bearings and snap rings just waiting for the chance to get loose. As soon as you put on AC you cut the rpm range that is practical, and when you want to make long trips you have the rpm range issue again, along with staying in the lower 80% so to speak of the reasonably possible power.

So, it looks like you will be best served with a moderate cam and stock rockers, with valve spring pressures of around 120-130 on the seat and maybe 320 lb open. That is what Olds put into their W30s, although more modern cams will help a little compared to the old faithful 397328, 402194 (the 308 deg cams) and the 402569 (the 328 deg. cam). The farther you get from this old standard, the less reliability and longevity, the lower the likely mpg.

 

The biggest reason i was going roller cam is because of the oil issue. I know of to many people that lost a flat tappet cam. Back in the 90s it was almost unheard of and now i even see engines with 50,000 miles and broke in good loose a cam. I won't likely even get 50,000 miles on this engine but don't want to worry about it. For the rockers, I guess i figured that the bearings would last longer? If i have to give something up to keep reliability or because of having A/C i will but i would like it to run as good or hopefully better than original. I will have 3.23 rear end gears also. I have never had anything other than 3.42 or 3.91 so i don't know how the 3.23 would have been with the original power.

 

The last time my motor was apart I replaced the Harland Sharps just because they were 8+ years old. Never had a problem with them, that's why there is another set of them on there.

 

Again not true. Todays valvetrain parts are better than ever, it's the oils that have changed. And with a faster lobe vs. 40 years ago, chances are you'll have better overall efficiency as well.
I find this very interesting coming from you, as you are one of the biggest proponents of Comp cams grinds. And if anything is harder on parts it's their stuff yet you recommend them consistantly, hmmmmm....

Jensen, do the roller if you want. And you can use roller rockers under the stock valvecovers, you just need to double gasket them and use a shorter poly lock. That'll be a very reliable setup, I've been running that same thing for over 8 years, no issues.

 

Street, mild lobes and modest spring pressures, sure rollers last well, but their main advantage is that you can use today's EPA emissions compliant oil. I have never lost a Comp Cams part, cam lobe, etc. Some of their race stuff is deliberately aggressive, but we weren't talking about a cam profile to get the last .05 sec of e.t. I have also never broken a stock rocker or bridge. I am not trying to sell anything and don't have stock in Comp or other companies.

 

Really......you never lost a rocker or bridge?

 

Mark is 100% correct, it is the oils that have changed. You should have no problem with a hyd. flat tappet cam as long as you put a decent oil in it. Chances are, with the money you're gonna have in that engine, you're going to run a good oil regardless of what cam you have in it.

VR1, Joe Gibbs, and various other oils are just fine for flat tappet cams. And as far as dependability they are the same. I drive my silver car all over the place and it is doing just fine...and it has a solid cam in it. I use VR1 and haven't flattened a lobe. Quality parts, roller or not, and a good oil and you're good to go.

P.S. HS rockers are among the best, if you break one you've done something special. Hell, look at Danny's 9 sec car (God rest it's soul)...he pulled bolts out of the head on a HS shaft system at 7,000 rpm but the rockers were fine.

 

There are millions and millions of flat tappet cams living long and healthy lives on the street and race track without any issues... a good oil will insure their continued long life.