therobski

Wow disappointing afternoon. Been getting the sound deadener down in the interior today, put the Scat Procar bucket seats together and installed. Decided to pull the car out of the shop. Start the engine, water started leaking. Put the car on the lift and it appears that on the pass side, the rear freeze plug in the block decided to fail. With the engine running its pouring out. Big Bummer. I wonder if there is a tool out there that can pull the plug out with out pulling the engine? As you can see in the picture it is somewhat accessible. If I have to pull the engine I'm concerning going to plan B....Thanks.

texxas

That sucks. Not trying to be a smart *** but there is a tool for that. Standard screw driver. Knock it through the plug and use it to pry the remains out. Getting a new plug installed in the tight space may not be so easy. Good luck with it.
I know, just a little, how you feel, went to pull my 442 out of the garage yesterday, smelled strong gasoline smell after starting the car, popped the hood and steady stream of gas pouring from the fuel pump weep hole.

therobski

In the picture, see the little black spot on the plug right at 9 o'clock, that's rusted out hole that just decided to make my day. Yes the install of the new one will be a challenge. I need to lean on my buddies here in this Club.. and getter done. Thanks

edzolz

Some folks use the expandable rubber freeze plugs in cases like this. If you do use a metal one, get one made of brass.

cjsdad

I had that exact same freeze plug rust out on my first 67 Cutlass. After I changed the engine mounts. I used a screwdriver to pull the old one out and then bought a freeze plug installer to put the new one back in. I ended up having to replace several of them over a year's time. I already had the BFH to drive them in, but the installer has a kink in it so you can drive the plug in even if you don't have a straight shot at it. I was addicted to Snap-On when I bought mine, but there are a lot less expensive alternatives out there. A quick search on ebay brought up a list of them. The kit should come with a variety of installers to match the size plug you are installing. If you are going to be working in a shop and doing this kinda thing a lot, get the Snap-On. If not, get the one that makes you the most comfortable cost vs. performance wise.

2blu442

cjsdad, is this what your describing? I got this in a box of tools I purchased years ago. I've never used it, from looking at the end of the handle I believe you hit it with a hammer to drive in the freeze plug. Also, don't forget to toss the brass plug in the freezer for a while before installing. John

cjsdad

That's the stuff!

1arunem

I recently had to do something similar on a 66 Skylark. Freeze plug was behind the engine mount. I removed the mount, jacked the engine up a bit, knocked the old plug out with a screwdriver/hammer and reinstalled with a tool similar to the one pictured. Worked like a charm due to the bent/angled head. The plug fits in the cup of the tool and then you just tap it in until the outer edge of the cup seats against the block. Easy as pie.

I don't know if it was necessary but I put a little bit of black RTV on the outer edges of the freeze plug.

Also remember to clean up the mating area of the block good before installation.

therobski

Update I borrow my friends freeze plug installer, got it in straight after a little practice. Put water back in and guess what another one started leaking. This one is on the drivers side behind the motor mount!. I'm assuming I should go ahead and change the rest of them. HMM what about the 2 behind the engine were the trans mounts up too that you cant see? If I have to pull the engine....oh boy...

OLDSter Ralph

Its one of those......"should I do it now or do it later" things. If you had two go bad, chances are they are all in about the same condition. You will have to drain the block and buy coolant once if you do them all now.
The expandable rubber ones might be great for hard to reach places, but I have never used them.
Cleaning the block mating surfaces with just a light dab of the right RTV makes sense to me.
Good luck,
Ralph

Gerald Nickels

When I build my engines I use a socket with sealer works great every time. I have used the rubber ones and they work great in tight places.

therobski

I may have to use the rubber one with the freeze plugs by the engine mounts. They should hold for years until I build the 425.

therobski

Cleaned the hole in the block with some 120 emery cloth and applied 3m yellow sealer around the plug before I installed it.