All, I'm pretty sure I've seen a post somewhere that talks about reinstalling the engine and something about installing the driver side frame mount (not adjustable) into the cross member of the engine compartment. Then attaching the passenger side motor mount and frame mount to the engine on the adjustable side (passenger) while the motor is on the engine hoist which will make alignment easier when installing. Lower the engine in and then install the driver side motor mount bolt and then install the nuts on the passenger side frame mount. Does that make sense?

Jim

 

Uh, not really.

This is not that complicated. The two mounts are identical and neither is "adjustable". Bolt both mounts loosely to the block. Lower the motor into the frame. Slide the cross bolts into the motor/frame mounts. Release any tension on the hoist. Tighten the bolts to the block.

It can help to use a tapered alignment pin to help line up the motor and frame mounts.

 

Thanks Joe

 

What the hell!! I don't leave any bolts loose on frame or the block motor mounts. I do use a tapered alingnment pins. After motor is setting in postion i remove the alingnment pin install mount bolt then remove other alignment pin and install the other mount bolt. Then release the engine from hoist tightnen both mount bolts and nuts.

 

I know Joe is assuming but do not loosen the frame brackets that are bolted to the car. Only the engine mounts need to be loose.

 

Note that I never mentioned the bolts holding the frame mounts:

 

I know you didn't but wr1970 did.

 

Yes i did. I never have had to leave motor mounts with bolts loose period. Maybe it is easyer with them loose but i never had a problem that required me to leave them loose.

 

Jim - if you are using aftermarket motor mounts and haven't yet installed the motor, etc you should try slipping the new mounts onto the frame pads as a sort of "test fit". Sometimes the ears on the mounts that have the holes in them for the through bolt can be stubborn when trying to slip them over the frame pads.

At least you'll know what to expect once you undertake the actual motor install.

 

^^^THIS! The Chinesium mounts available today have questionable quality control. I've had to slot the holes for the bolt to the block, for example.

 

I have a pair of the Anchor brand motor mounts here.... "Made in USA"....bought them years ago and they are just as bad as the current overseas-made mounts from Anchor.

It's not the materials as much as it is the DESIGN.....the distance b/n the mount-to-block holes and the mount-to-frame pad holes is much different compared to the original mounts. Someone at one time alluded to the possibility that Anchor may have "merged" the motor mount PN and/or design from the '68-72 big block Olds Abody with the '73 and later design.

I've never had an original GM '73 motor mount to compare the Anchor mounts to to see if this is the case.

So...the big block Anchor mounts seem to locate the motor slightly higher up in the engine compartment compared to the originals. I'm working on a "fix" for the problem.

Apparently it's not a "fatal" problem as the vast, vast majority of restored, etc cars out there are running aftermarket motor mounts (likely Anchor).....but as Joe mentions...they can be a PITA!! to install so test fit first and make your "adjustments" (slotting holes, etc) without having to struggle with the motor.

 

Now that makes sense.

 

WILCO thanks for the foresight. I have been painting the block with the Eastwood 2k Gray Engine self etching primer. It was dry for a couple days now too humid again. I'm 5months behind on this and getting aggravated.

I will fit test my Rock Auto Anchor 2328 motor mounts this weekend.

 

Just did an install too, use a razor blade and get rid of the extra rubber coating that may be on the mount face where it mates to the frame pad. Never had to loosen anything either. Excellent suggestion above about dry fitting the mounts over the frame pad ahead of time.