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Hi
Thanks for letting me in! I live in Sweden and after many years of desire I bought me an 68 442. The car working fine but its lot of work to do on it.
It have 400 motor that I want have little crispier with more power and little rough idle It have Edelbrock 750, Performer intake and headers right now but I want do a lot more like a bigger cam and some other stuff. It have original TH400 and 12 bolt.
Anyone who have some good recipe for tuning of these engines?
I know they are not så good for rev too much but I could at least take 400 hp from it?
Maybe some of you guys with experience could Write down some good reciepe what i could follow?
Yes, i know the rims dondt look so good on this car
Welcome Aboard! Nice Ride (in spite of the rims, LOL! ) I don't have any advice for you on your engine quest, but I like your ride. I think it's really cool that the car is in Sweden, and you want to spice it up!!
Curious, what were the 442 torque converters rated at for stall? They have to be better than the regular TH350 ones I have seen, they flash at 1600 rpm, useless for anything but a stock peanut cam. Nice car, it will be balance at what highway rpm you are comfortable with for gearing and how big of stall as well.
I have a Hughes 2500 converter and I absolutely recommend it. It feels like a factory converter with no excessive slippage while driving then flashes to the rated stall under full-throttle.
the cam is the last thing you’ll be choosing in the build up.
you have no idea right now what gears you have, what converter, or what compression you’ll end up with in the end .
if you just want to stick a cam in it now, you should at least find out your gears and correct stall. Simply brake torquing it will give you a good idea on the converter.
if it’s the original 13” one that came in those years, they are about 1800
You’ll need to consider the idle vacuum if you have power brakes.
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; November 26th, 2021 at 10:41 PM.
I have a Hughes 2500 converter and I absolutely recommend it. It feels like a factory converter with no excessive slippage while driving then flashes to the rated stall under full-throttle.
That sounds intresting. I will investigate where to buy those conv. Thanks
the cam is the last thing you’ll be choosing in the build up.
you have no idea right now what gears you have, what converter, or what compression you’ll end up with in the end .
if you just want to stick a cam in it now, you should at least find out your gears and correct stall. Simply brake torquing it will give you a good idea on the converter.
if it’s the original 13” one that came in those years, they are about 1800
You’ll need to consider the idle vacuum if you have power brakes.
Yes, Im going to rebuild complete and iam open for change the gear/conv.. I vill use 15” wheels with good tires when its time.
I looking for to get a reciepe for an project what you guys know works in practice
Really, only 1800, interesting. What was the base 442 gearing? The Hughes 2500 stall should work well with the cam Mark selected. Make sure to get their BOP version, it has lugs vs a bolt and nut hook up. The bolt and nut can interfere with the weights on an Olds flex plate. Good luck.
Really, only 1800, interesting. What was the base 442 gearing? The Hughes 2500 stall should work well with the cam Mark selected. Make sure to get their BOP version, it has lugs vs a bolt and nut hook up. The bolt and nut can interfere with the weights on an Olds flex plate. Good luck.
yep, that’s about it. They were 13” converters.. behind a 455 they would flash slightly higher.
one thing you should never do is plan your build around a camshaft,, which is what is being suggested to the op.
he said he’s doing a complete redo..he should have that all done and complete, long before he orders his cam.
What are his goals? He already said he wants 400hp Would he be happy with it being slower off the line because of a cam that isn’t suited to his driver train?
he can easily make 400 and also be down on TQ from what it makes now, and be disappointed.
Max cruising rpm on the highway will dictate the gear ratio he can put up with. Then the converter and cam can be selected based on that , then compression ratio,, and if it needs to make good vac at idle in gear for power brakes…
He needs to tell us the planned compression ratio for a start and the octane of fuel being ran. Even for a converter, you need to find out how the company rates the stall. A converter like a Hughes is rated behind Big Block torque, they told me that, so it may stall a little less even behind a hot 400G. As said, what is the base factory gear ratio? Isn't it something like a 3.08 or 3.23, which should be OK. No matter what, a 400G isn't going like RPM, aim for max, low rpm torque.
He needs to tell us the planned compression ratio for a start and the octane of fuel being ran. Even for a converter, you need to find out how the company rates the stall. A converter like a Hughes is rated behind Big Block torque, they told me that, so it may stall a little less even behind a hot 400G. As said, what is the base factory gear ratio? Isn't it something like a 3.08 or 3.23, which should be OK. No matter what, a 400G isn't going like RPM, aim for max, low rpm torque.
We have 98 and 95 octane here in Sweden. I run 98 in all of my cars because in 95 there is 10% ethanol and old cars run like **** on that fuel...98 contains only 0-3% max and runs much better. about compression ratio is one of my questions what I should aim at. This car is daily driven on the summer and I also wish a rough idle if its possible with this setup. As I said before that I want to keep the heads and refine them for better flow and I already have performer manifold and 1407 carb.
We have 98 and 95 octane here in Sweden. I run 98 in all of my cars because in 95 there is 10% ethanol and old cars run like **** on that fuel...98 contains only 0-3% max and runs much better. about compression ratio is one of my questions what I should aim at. This car is daily driven on the summer and I also wish a rough idle if its possible with this setup. As I said before that I want to keep the heads and refine them for better flow and I already have performer manifold and 1407 carb.
He needs to tell us the planned compression ratio for a start and the octane of fuel being ran. Even for a converter, you need to find out how the company rates the stall. A converter like a Hughes is rated behind Big Block torque, they told me that, so it may stall a little less even behind a hot 400G. As said, what is the base factory gear ratio? Isn't it something like a 3.08 or 3.23, which should be OK. No matter what, a 400G isn't going like RPM, aim for max, low rpm torque.
Something critical for you to understand is the torque/horsepower relationship with the 400G. Due to the bore/stroke of this engine and breathing limitations of the factory heads, they simply do not generate big, impressive hp numbers. 400hp is within reach but it's never going to make the numbers of a modified 455. You can easily make well over 450lb-ft of torque so the engine is more than capable of holding its own on the street and putting a smile on your face.
I would recommend figuring out what, exactly, you're starting with; are the heads original (C)? what's the current condition of the engine (compression, oil pressure, vacuum, etc.)? Are the trans and converter stock? What is the rear gear?
There aren't too many of us who have 'packaged' 400G solutions since it's just not a very popular Olds engine to modify. That being said, I have a '69 400G with 10:1 CR, Mondello cam, Performer intake, aluminum heads, headers, 750cfm carb, TH400 trans with 2800rpm stall converter and 3.23 rear. Very mild mannered while cruising and driving around town but extremely fun when opened up.
what is the maximum highway cruising RPM you are comfortable with? You say the RPM’s are not very high now,, what are they at 100kph?
do you have power brakes?
Minimum gear I would suggest is a 3:42. which should RPM at 2,622@100kph factoring in converter slip and 28” tire
3:91 would be 2,997 RPM
If you have the base 3.08 gear your RPM at 100kph with a 28” tire would be 2,361
You are probably 300 rpm low on your rpm numbers. My current 2.78 with the TH350 ran 2350 at 60 mph with a stock 1600 stall converter and tire height, 215/75R14. I also used a 3.42 with a TH250C, 2600 with the converter locked, 2900 rpm without. I use the Olds Gmail calculator but it uses a lock up converter in the calculation, which lowers rpm by 300. It depends on what he is comfortable with with cruising rpm on the bearing spinning 400G.
You are probably 300 rpm low on your rpm numbers. My current 2.78 with the TH350 ran 2350 at 60 mph with a stock 1600 stall converter and tire height, 215/75R14. I also used a 3.42 with a TH250C, 2600 with the converter locked, 2900 rpm without. I use the Olds Gmail calculator but it uses a lock up converter in the calculation, which lowers rpm by 300. It depends on what he is comfortable with with cruising rpm on the bearing spinning 400G.
Something critical for you to understand is the torque/horsepower relationship with the 400G. Due to the bore/stroke of this engine and breathing limitations of the factory heads, they simply do not generate big, impressive hp numbers. 400hp is within reach but it's never going to make the numbers of a modified 455. You can easily make well over 450lb-ft of torque so the engine is more than capable of holding its own on the street and putting a smile on your face.
I would recommend figuring out what, exactly, you're starting with; are the heads original (C)? what's the current condition of the engine (compression, oil pressure, vacuum, etc.)? Are the trans and converter stock? What is the rear gear?
There aren't too many of us who have 'packaged' 400G solutions since it's just not a very popular Olds engine to modify. That being said, I have a '69 400G with 10:1 CR, Mondello cam, Performer intake, aluminum heads, headers, 750cfm carb, TH400 trans with 2800rpm stall converter and 3.23 rear. Very mild mannered while cruising and driving around town but extremely fun when opened up.
I understand, yes the HP numbers are in fact not important to me but i want have a little more fun when i playing around Yes, the heads are the C and i think there is some room for tweaking on them. Portmatching and bigger valve maybe?
Its very cold here i Sweden now i i have the car outside but when it is better weather then i can investigate the compression and the gear. I ordered new bushings from Energy suspension (Polyuretan) and i will fix the differential at the same time.
I have new Pertronix III with Pertronix coil and i hope that works fine.
Not sure how much it might cost to rework the heads in Switzerland but if you're going to invest that much in them, seriously consider aluminum. Your final cost will likely be the same or lower for reduced weight and improved performance.
I cringe every time someone makes this statement.
On the surface it certainly makes sense. Out of the box Gen II and the new Gen III Edelbrocks flow better and will make more power than any stock iron. But the Procomp/Speedmasters really don’t flow much better than any of the large valve BB irons. It’s not until you put some work into those that you finally reap the benefits.
About this Pertronix and RPM. The engine gonna work as it is next summer before I rebuild the whole engine. I put the rev limiter to 4900 rpm. What do you think? Is it too much?
I guess I should have been more clear with my comment regarding the aluminum heads. People should not get the impression that just bolting on a set of the aluminum heads will mean an increase in horsepower. You're right that the 'economy' brands are likely no better than the C heads he already has but if he's going to put money into reworking the iron heads, he might as well do that with a set of aluminum. Final flow numbers may be similar but weight and heat rejection will still be improved.
With a lock converter or 4 spd, they sure are. My 70 is off by 5 mph at 60 mph, my G body was bang on. Your numbers are 300 rpm low.
Nope again. And why are you even talking about a lock up? This guy has a 400
we are talking about a 400T with what looks like a stock converter which will have 3% to 5% slip. I used 3% which means my numbers should be high ,, if anything, not low compared to a lock up
again, my numbers are right in.
There are two very good and accurate online calculators . Both show the same numbers…when I put in your numbers you got for your set up, your numbers are way off
you should try another calculator or just use tire circumference which will tell you the same thing.
Try this one www.wallaceracing.com
Or this https://spicerparts.com/calculators/engine-rpm-calculator
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; December 4th, 2021 at 03:16 PM.
The numbers are low, different makes of tachometers. My 70, by GPS at 60 mph was 2350 rpm with the non lockup stock TH350 2.78 gears and 225/70R14 tires. What should it be according to you?. I wish you were right, I wouldn't need OD for my ideal cruise rpm. My 70 currently has an Autometer tachometer. Either the Global Positioning Satellite is wrong or the Sun and Autometer tachometer are out to lunch, if my RPM is wrong. I use the Olds Gmail Calculator, it is bang on with a lockup converter, 300 rpm under without one. Also multiple brands of tires. I will try the others, see if they are any closer. http://tech.oldsgmail.com/axle_RPM.php
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 4th, 2021 at 03:29 PM.
The numbers are low, different makes of tachometers. My 70, by GPS at 60 mph was 2350 rpm with the non lockup stock TH350 2.78 gears and 225/70R14 tires. What should it be according to you?. I wish you were right, I wouldn't need OD for my ideal cruise rpm. My 70 currently has an Autometer tachometer. Either the Global Positioning Satellite is wrong or the Sun and Autometer tachometer are out to lunch, if my RPM is wrong. I use the Olds Gmail Calculator, it is bang on with a lockup converter, 300 rpm under without one. Also multiple brands of tires. I will try the others, see if they are any closer. http://tech.oldsgmail.com/axle_RPM.php
Im not using a tach to calculate RPM,,, I’m doing it with math.
there are no “different makes of tachs” when using math….that’s why I said do not use GPS or a tach.
have you put your numbers into the two calculators I posted?
Yes, not what my tachometer is reading, too low. Lock up converters, which give a true one to one ratio, drop rpm by 250, an extremely tight TH250C 1600 stall and the 1500 stall in my 4L60E to my D9 1900 stall and PARC 2350 rpm in my 2004R, both right around 300 rpm. I say 5% is too low of a number for torque converter slippage, that is the issue. I can turn off lock up and watch rpm jump up 300 rpm. Yes, I used math, according to my tachometer, slippage is twice that much on 3 different vehicles.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 4th, 2021 at 04:06 PM.
November 20th, 2021, 11:13 AM
It have Edelbrock 750, Performer intake and headers right now but I want do a lot more like a bigger cam and some other stuff. It have original TH400 and 12 bolt.
) I don't have any advice for you on your engine quest, but I like your ride. I think it's really cool that the car is in Sweden, and you want to spice it up!!
