Can I replace the rear main seal without pulling the engine and removing the crank?

I would rather keep the engine and trans in the car if I can because its a lot of work to pull it out.

71 olds 455 v8.

 

I have a 1967 442 I had to pull the engine. I could not even get the oil pan down with the engine in the car. Plus if the engine hasn't been out in a while its a great opportunity to get a ton of other things done. Use the rubber seal DO NOT use the rope seal !!! Unless of course you want to do it twice like I did

 

Did you have to lift the crank from the block or were you able to feed it through?

I see rope seal and I see a 2 piece seal which I think some people are recommending.

 

You need to drop the pan out of way. Getting a new rubber rear main seal in is easy, the old rope seal sucks to get out but can be done with hours of work without completely removing the crank.

 

That depends on how much you like the taste of motor oil.

You can do it, but it's barely any more trouble to just take the engine out.

- Eric

 

Thanks all for the info.

Yes the top side rope seal didn't pop out like I see online so I have to drop the crank.
I broke the main cap bolts lose and I am removing the timing gears so I can lower the crank.

I also removed the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel.
I'm doing all this with the engine in this car. lol

The torque converter doesn't have a nub that sticks into the center of the flywhel does it?

Main caps, timing chain, torque converter and the crank should lower?
I removed the spark plugs to make it easier to rotate and lower.

 

So you are only six bellhousing bolts away from pulling the motor and doing this the easy way...

It's called a "pilot" and yes it has one. Push the converter back into the trans.

 

Personally I would try to find a piece of plastic that was flexible enough to follow the seal groove around the crank but strong enough to push the old seal out.

Having the engine unbolted from the trans is a very long way from pulling the engine. You need to disconnect the engine mounts, the fuel lines, the electrical wiring, remove the radiator and the hood, and find something to lift it.

 

Y'know, there's a tool for this. It's called a Sneaky Pete.
We discussed it a short while ago when talking to Nigel.
Searching can help to avoid duplicate conversations.


He had to disconnect the motor mounts in order to drop the oil pan.
The radiator takes 5 minutes.
And one fuel hose and a few wires is practically nothing.
He really is 80% if the way to pulling the motor, and oil is dripping in his eye the whole time.

- Eric

 

I have never needed to discover one or use it but I remember my Dad telling me about a Sneaky Pete. If it works, now would be a good time for the OP to learn about it I guess.

My point is that to someone working alone that might have never pulled an engine before that is a LOT of extra work. I have all the tools to do it, but he may not. It can be intimidating to pull your first engine. Not to mention the extra expense of renting or buying a cherry picker and engine stand. Like I said, I have them but to someone that doesn't, that is a LOT of extras. It probably would have taken the same amount of typing to say "Hey, find yourself a Sneaky Pete to help get that old rope seal out" as it did to bust his ***** and tell him he should go ahead and pull the engine.

 

True. I can't argue with any of that.

Still, I've done it both ways, and I'd much rather rent an engine picker and buy a cheap engine stand, which I would then have forever, than do it on my back, if I could possibly avoid it.

- Eric

 

I removed the oil pump and the bearing cap and was able to remove the rope seal and with a lot of lubricant I was able to work the rubber seal around the crank. Believe it or not no more oil leak.