I have a 67 442 with a 1970 455. It's time to get rid of that rope seal. I installed when I had the engine out of the car. The engine has about 1300 miles and decided it was time to leak. I do not want to pull the engine out so I'm going to attempt to replace the seal with the engine in the car.
Any suggestions appreciated. I am going to use the rubber Ford seal


Thanks to all

 

Lightly chamfer the recess in the block after removing the rope. Put moly cam lube on the lip and RTV around the rest of the seal half, rotate into place in the block. Put a bit of rtv on the ends where the two halves of the seal meet.

 

Yeah, pull the engine. By the time you get everything disconnected so you can get the engine high enough to remove the oil pan, you're only three converter bolts and six bellhousing bolts away from just pulling the motor. Replacing the seal in the car means that you are lying on your back with oil dripping in your face.

 

Thank you Run to Rund

 

This is the big question I keep asking myself pull the engine or not.
I don't want to do any damage to the car pulling the engine could cause.
And I have a lift so I won't be on my back at all if I do all the work from the bottom.
I guess my question to you Joe is it still best to pull the engine


As always thanks for the help.


Jim

 

What Joe said.

I have installed a RMS out of the car, and I have removed con-rod caps to remove pistons in the car (which is a significant part, though not all, of the RMS job), and I can state unequivocally that removing the engine will be more conducive to happiness and inner harmony.

- Eric

 

will the rubber seal from the ford fit the 350 olds ? or just the 455?

 

No.

Rear Main Seal -- BS6141 -- Small Block Neoprene Ford Type (Y-Block 239, 256, 272, 292)
Rear Main Seal -- BS13879 -- Small Block Neoprene AMC / Jeep Type (196, 199, 232, 258)
Rear Main Seal -- QBS40032 -- Big Block Neoprene Ford Type (460)

See the source (among other places).

- Eric