Pulled my heads,
September 21st, 2009, 05:06 AM
#1
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Pulled my heads,
I was surprised on how clean everything was,,Pistons and cylinder walls looked great...I have a question..The valley pan that sits under the intake is this part reusable...The gasket sets i see listed only shows 2 separate intake gaskets..The ones i took off have the 2 gaskets and are connected by the valley pan...
What is the intake and head bolts tighten specs,,And also is there a specs on the lifter bolts or do u just tighten them down..
I found the valley pan at advanceauto,,,,My question now is the first gasket set i bought has the intake gaskets but no valley pan...Do I just use the valley pan that has the intake gaskets made in with it....Do some people not use the valley pan and just use the separate gaskets?
What is the intake and head bolts tighten specs,,And also is there a specs on the lifter bolts or do u just tighten them down..
I found the valley pan at advanceauto,,,,My question now is the first gasket set i bought has the intake gaskets but no valley pan...Do I just use the valley pan that has the intake gaskets made in with it....Do some people not use the valley pan and just use the separate gaskets?
Last edited by 1973olds98; September 21st, 2009 at 06:00 AM.
September 21st, 2009, 06:36 AM
#2
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Only use the valley pan 1 piece gasket if you still have stock heads and intake. Most people don't use these. You can cut off the intake portion of the old one and still use the valley pan as a splash shield. You will likely have better results using separate intake gaskets. I am using MrGasket ultra seal III intake gaskets with no problems, iron heads, aluminum intake. If you want to block the intake cross over, cut pieces off the old gasket. Use copper silicone to stick them over the cross over ports on the heads before you put the intake gasket on.
September 21st, 2009, 03:51 PM
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Follow this link http://www.442.com/tech/torque.html
September 22nd, 2009, 04:16 PM
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Just back from my local machine shop,,,,he had my heads all tore apart,,,,He suspects the oil burning is from worn valve guides...He showed me the specs of what kind of play the valaves shouls have and he said mine were close to 10 thousands...That was only on a few that were that wore out....He showed me some of the exhaust valves werent sealing all the way...He is going to do my complete valve jobs including putting in new guides,,,and the better valve seals,,,,hot tank and bead blast my intake,,thermostat housing,,valve covers,,,removing 2 broke studs from the heads,,and painting it all oldsmobile blue for 350.00
September 22nd, 2009, 08:43 PM
#6
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Just back from my local machine shop,,,,he had my heads all tore apart,,,,He suspects the oil burning is from worn valve guides...He showed me the specs of what kind of play the valaves shouls have and he said mine were close to 10 thousands...That was only on a few that were that wore out....He showed me some of the exhaust valves werent sealing all the way...He is going to do my complete valve jobs including putting in new guides,,,and the better valve seals,,,,hot tank and bead blast my intake,,thermostat housing,,valve covers,,,removing 2 broke studs from the heads,,and painting it all oldsmobile blue for 350.00
September 22nd, 2009, 10:26 PM
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Just back from my local machine shop,,,,he had my heads all tore apart,,,,He suspects the oil burning is from worn valve guides...He showed me the specs of what kind of play the valaves shouls have and he said mine were close to 10 thousands...That was only on a few that were that wore out....He showed me some of the exhaust valves werent sealing all the way...He is going to do my complete valve jobs including putting in new guides,,,and the better valve seals,,,,hot tank and bead blast my intake,,thermostat housing,,valve covers,,,removing 2 broke studs from the heads,,and painting it all oldsmobile blue for 350.00
John
October 5th, 2009, 05:26 PM
#13
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It was a quite bit more from the 180.00 i first was told,,,but you guys told me be prepared to pay 100-150 more if it needed new guides....He also gave me 2 full cans of olds blue engine paint for the block...He also did a great job on the valve covers and thermostat housing all painted blue...He even bead blasted the hot pipe housing for the choke and painted it black along with the egr valve...Will post pics soon...
October 5th, 2009, 06:25 PM
#14
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Years ago they use to put this stuff in the gas made in China...it's called LEAD....
Years ago when we would take a set of heads to get done we could get away with $100 for a 3 angle job and milling the heads flat. But these days since they took the lead out, its time to ante up anytime you take a set of heads in now. The guides are almost always toasted. And with the lead they also used to have this stuff called OCTANE....thats kinda the same deal....now the gas goes bad in 6 months when it would last for at least a year or 2 without any serious adverse effects. Back when an Olds was an Olds....well at least they still built them....lol.....just thought I would remember back when things were a lil different. Oldsdroptop 
October 8th, 2009, 06:03 AM
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IF you can't afford the gaskets then make sure you keep a lint free rag over the top of the engine. You should also park it in the garage. I suggest coating the engine and heads with a thin film of motor oil. This will prevent flash rusting. Then when you assemble the engine clean it with denatured alcohol.
October 8th, 2009, 07:28 PM
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This Monday,,The guy that owns the machine shop that rebuilt my heads is comming over to measure the cylinders that best he can without it being pulled..My uncle was going to loan me the money for the gasket kit but the more i think about it the more I want to pull the whole motor and pull the pistons and see if #1 piston has worn rings..Worst case senario I dont pull it and put it back together and it still smokes...If the oil ring was bad in #1 cylinder would there be signs of it on the wall....When i pulled the head the cylinder walls were very clean and smooth...There was oil caked around the valves...I am low on cash but have plenty of time and my labor is free.. I might as well pull it cause its killing me 2 know...
OLDS64 what do u think?
OLDS64 what do u think?
October 9th, 2009, 06:07 AM
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You really can't measure cylinder "out-of-round" with the pistons in the block. The best you could do is use a set of snap gauges to take the cylinder diameter indirectly. Using snap gauges to measure cylinder diameter is inaccurate compared to using a dial bore gauge. I am afraid you won't have enough room to use a dial bore gauge with the pistons still in the block.
I suggest you re-install the heads and soak the bottom end in diesel fuel or Seafoam. You might have some clogged rings that are causing your engine to burn a little bit of oil. Soaking the bottom end will flush the carbon out of your rings and ring lands. In my experience Oldsmobile engines rarely have bottom end trouble that causes mechanical engine failure. With new heads and a clean bottom end you should be fine.
I suggest you re-install the heads and soak the bottom end in diesel fuel or Seafoam. You might have some clogged rings that are causing your engine to burn a little bit of oil. Soaking the bottom end will flush the carbon out of your rings and ring lands. In my experience Oldsmobile engines rarely have bottom end trouble that causes mechanical engine failure. With new heads and a clean bottom end you should be fine.
October 16th, 2009, 06:21 PM
#26
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Mike from Mikes machine shop that is doing my work came over today and measured the cylinders,,He used a couple tools nit sure what they were but the cylinders he said were exactly what the book said they should be...He did say the cylinders were super smooth and the cross hatching i beleive was the word he used are not there which helps hold oil on the walls for lubrication..
October 18th, 2009, 10:09 AM
#27
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Cross hatching is the groove that a cylinder hone leaves in the cyliner wall when you hone the cylinder after machining. There should be a cross hatch pattern of about 45 degrees. Just because your cylinders don't have any cross hatch doesn't mean you need to re-machine the block. I would put the engine back together and see how it runs.
October 18th, 2009, 10:27 AM
#28
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olds64,,,,i decided I will reassemble it and see how it truns out...I am going to order a gasket kit from a fellow forum member here who had a great price on a complete gasket set including valley pan and run some seafoam through the crankcase and see what happends..Money is tight so there is noway i could afford right now to rebuild the motor. wish me luck and thanks for all your help...
December 19th, 2009, 05:49 AM
#32
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nope,,,have not yet,,statrted a new job and have not had time...A local mechanic has me convinced the rings in cylinder 1 are bad and thats why it was smoking. So that pretty much put me at a stand still for now...He said if most the guides were out of tolerance then why would only one cylinder be burning oil...
Last edited by 1973olds98; December 19th, 2009 at 05:53 AM.
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