Priming the oil pump
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 68
From: Ornskoldsvik, Sweden
Priming the oil pump
Hello! Just got the new engine setup completed (BIG Thanks to 442rocketdave and cutlassefi), and getting ready to break in the cam. In the papers going with it, it says i need to prime the oil pump first.
And my question is, how do i do that?
And my question is, how do i do that?
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Most folks spin it in the proper direction with a drill, after putting some oil in the crankcase. Need the distributor out of the way, obviously. Work skillfully, and do not drop the 5/16 [8mm] socket into the engine.
Might as well do this with engine at TDC firing #1 - or 10-15 degrees BTDC, then drop the distributor in and fire it up.
I recommend water for a coolant until the engine is proven. A lot easier to drain and clean up than anti-freeze, if something goes wrong.
Might as well do this with engine at TDC firing #1 - or 10-15 degrees BTDC, then drop the distributor in and fire it up.
I recommend water for a coolant until the engine is proven. A lot easier to drain and clean up than anti-freeze, if something goes wrong.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 68
From: Ornskoldsvik, Sweden
Most folks spin it in the proper direction with a drill, after putting some oil in the crankcase. Need the distributor out of the way, obviously. Work skillfully, and do not drop the 5/16 [8mm] socket into the engine.
Might as well do this with engine at TDC firing #1 - or 10-15 degrees BTDC, then drop the distributor in and fire it up.
I recommend water for a coolant until the engine is proven. A lot easier to drain and clean up than anti-freeze, if something goes wrong.
Might as well do this with engine at TDC firing #1 - or 10-15 degrees BTDC, then drop the distributor in and fire it up.
I recommend water for a coolant until the engine is proven. A lot easier to drain and clean up than anti-freeze, if something goes wrong.
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,539
From: Northern VA
Not a "bolt", but the oil pump is driven by a 5/16" hex shaft, so you use a 5/16 socket to engage it. Yes, it's already in the block (assuming it didn't stick in the distributor drive gear and inadvertently get pulled out).
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Yes.
Also, aftermarket oil pump drive rods may not have the washers in place to prevent it from coming out with the distributor, so, again, work skillfully and carefully, like a surgeon. When you draw the distributor out, do so carefully, and listen for the oil pump drive rod falling off the bottom.
USUALLY it just stays in place and behaves.
I have had it come partway out and fall aside. Or, grip the distributor [on an OLD engine] so bad that it strips the "washers" off the drive rod on the way out, typically after breaking the distributor housing from prying on it.
You should be able to look down in there and see the 5/16 hex rod. Use an extension about a foot long and a reversible drill to spin the shaft **counter clockwise**. You will feel the increase it torque when the pump is pumping oil and not air. You will also have a good feel for the power required to drive the pump with cold oil. Tape or otherwise secure the socket to the drive tool to ENSURE that it cannot easily fall off into the engine.
While you are in there take a peek and ensure that while you are pumping oil, some is squirting out the aft end of the LH oil passage onto your drive tool, or at least near it. Sometimes folks put an unholey plug in there instead of the correct plug.
Also, aftermarket oil pump drive rods may not have the washers in place to prevent it from coming out with the distributor, so, again, work skillfully and carefully, like a surgeon. When you draw the distributor out, do so carefully, and listen for the oil pump drive rod falling off the bottom.
USUALLY it just stays in place and behaves.
I have had it come partway out and fall aside. Or, grip the distributor [on an OLD engine] so bad that it strips the "washers" off the drive rod on the way out, typically after breaking the distributor housing from prying on it.
You should be able to look down in there and see the 5/16 hex rod. Use an extension about a foot long and a reversible drill to spin the shaft **counter clockwise**. You will feel the increase it torque when the pump is pumping oil and not air. You will also have a good feel for the power required to drive the pump with cold oil. Tape or otherwise secure the socket to the drive tool to ENSURE that it cannot easily fall off into the engine.
While you are in there take a peek and ensure that while you are pumping oil, some is squirting out the aft end of the LH oil passage onto your drive tool, or at least near it. Sometimes folks put an unholey plug in there instead of the correct plug.
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