Hey guy's, I'm new to the old's world, When priming new engine (Oh say, 455 rebuilt) should there be a 5 to 6 mm healthy oil shot from fnt to rear of engine aimed at dist drive gear while priming? The engine is in and oil pressure goes zero when hot, any one been here before? can you pull the trans out to access or reinstall smaller orifice? Or any pictures of that area? And when we get that fixed we can start on the ( why running hot too) lol

 

There should be a very, very thin stream of oil spraying the dist gear, not a large one. That is the back of the left oil galley, which is supposed to have a pipe plug with a small hole in it. If you take off the flexplate/flywheel, remove the small freeze plug to the left of the large cam freeze plug, then you can see straight into the galley. The pipe plug is installed through that access.
You must have a small hole (I don't remember the size, but I'm sure someone will chime in) in the plug to oil the dist gear.

 

Yessir, I found it, It's on the Mondello site for $9 bucks, a pipe plug with .040 hole in it, I thought that seemed like a lot just for the dist gear, But had oil pressure, altho aftermarket pump, I wish I had a picture of the back of a block to tell how much a beeatchhh it's gonna be after trans removed.

 

Another one?
8-0

 

Well lets hope he can make it 9-0 after I get some oil pressure locked down on this overheating mess, Man I have never had problems like these out of my BBC's

 

best pic i have shows the squirter thru the dizzy hole

 

Thank you sir, that's it 12 oclock high,in the hole, probly the size of a gun cleaning rod squirt of oil was coming out that to the back, Guess my mind has become demented from working on Mercedes/BMW's for 15 yrs, where they have plumbing everywhere squirting oil on everything, lol. That's not so bad, I will try to attack it tomorrow, If not cram a stick in it, lol

 

It's easy enough to make one - as long as you have a good supply of 0.040" drill bits. It takes a few.
I did one by drilling most of the way with a more usable size then just the last bit with the small drill.

 

lol, takes a few?? If I just look at a drill bit under 1/8" they break.

 

Yup. I have several drill bit sets that get really sparse under 1/8". The micro-bit set that I got has around 10 drills each size in 0.001" increments. Only problem is they apparently put them into the tubes randomly. Have to mic 'em every time I use one.

 

talking with my local machine shop, don't know if true yet, said that was a special thread on the plug with the hole or orfice in it, I will know when that special plug gets here, How much different could it be? you know cross thread is the best lock-tight, hehe

 

Well here's what I find in motor (on the right) and here is what Mondello sent on left, lets see what happens,

 

Looks like whoever assembled the engine lost or damaged the original plug and tried to fabricate a replacement using whatever drill bit he had. Yes, that would cause the problem you've been having. I'd also be concerned that the engine assembler incorrectly installed the original plug with the hole somewhere else in the motor, causing yet another leak that results in lower oil pressure when hot.

 

It's normal pipe thread, normal pipe plugs fit just fine. Which is part of the problem.

That hole in the square-drive plug is waaay too large.

 

I did the opposite on my current built. I installed a non drilled plug. It some how is still getting oil just not enough . I have to install the proper plug dist. Gear is wearing down but not at an alarming rate just a few thousanths. I made the mistake because I usually let the machine shop do all the plugs . They messed mine up on removal and I did not realized It was drilled. Live and learn lol.

 

"Another one?
8-0 "

That was supposed to be a "YOWZA" face emoticon, not "Eight and Zero"
Maybe with eyebrows and a pointy nose?
(8^O

Anyhow, looks line you got it right now. usually the square-drive plugs are factory correct, and the hex drive have no hole at all. I would say someone altered your factory square drive plug.

 

OK, after new plug installed, on cold start up using 15W40 we have 50 lbs oil pressure, at 200 deg F, drops to 10 lbs and then starts over heating, lol. Better but still don't like it. What does GM say? 7 lbs @ idle is fine? working on the overheating issue, That seems like a big drop in pressure vs temp, My BBC does it but not that bad using same oil at same temps.

 

My little 355 drops to 30 if it's really hot like driving in traffic temps at 210 normal crusing my oil psi is pegged on 50 pretty much even at idle . I had a really worn out 307 that had 50 when cold with 20 w 50 then drop to 5 psi when hot only if in neutral lol.

 

I belive if I can keep the temp under 200 deg F, it be all right, as soon as touch the throttle it springs up to 45 or 50 lbs oil pressure, im working on the temp issue now and started another thread, and thanks guy's for all any any advice!

 

Retarded timing can induce overheating at idle.

I found that advancing the timing made for great idle but hard to start. Ended up hooking vacuum advance to intake- voila'.

starting = no vacuum = retarded timing = easy start.

Idling = lots of vacuum = advanced timing = not overheating, and MUCH IMPROVED throttle response off idle.

WOT- vacuum diminishes, less advance, no detonation issues.

I did have to install the adjustable VA canister and limit it to 10-12 crank (?- it's been a while) degrees of advance.

 

I started a new thread, (oiling to overheating) and I figured out the fans were junk, but I did try that, the vacuum advance to straight manifold vac, car start great, and idle like a dream, till put in gear, flat stall out, engine even has a just above stock stall converter, just flat go dead, I tried leaning on it putting in gear, steal didn't like it.