Are ported heads a waste in a street car?
#1
Are ported heads a waste in a street car?
I've been accumulating parts for a motor for a couple of years now. Been hard to spend any time on it between work and having small kids. But I'm finally to the point of putting something together. Before I do, I need a sanity check to decide if I'm putting money in the right places.
I have a really nice set of ported C heads sold to me by a member at ROP for a very good price. Originally I planned to use them on a 425 block I have lying around.
Recently, I picked up a complete "freshly rebuilt" 1969 455 with CA heads from a Criagslist ad. I am hoping to tear it down this weekend to see exactly how fresh and how rebuilt it really is. But it was cheap enough I really had nothing to lose.
So now I'm asking myself: Are the ported heads overkill for my application? If they are in good shape, are stock CA heads good enough? Should I sell the ported set to pay for some of the other stuff I need?
I have a really nice set of ported C heads sold to me by a member at ROP for a very good price. Originally I planned to use them on a 425 block I have lying around.
Recently, I picked up a complete "freshly rebuilt" 1969 455 with CA heads from a Criagslist ad. I am hoping to tear it down this weekend to see exactly how fresh and how rebuilt it really is. But it was cheap enough I really had nothing to lose.
So now I'm asking myself: Are the ported heads overkill for my application? If they are in good shape, are stock CA heads good enough? Should I sell the ported set to pay for some of the other stuff I need?
- The car will be used mostly on the street.
- When it does to go the track, I have no motivation to run faster than 12.0. The closest track to me requires a roll bar at 11.99 or faster and I don't want to mess with that.
- I want the cam street friendly enough to handle moderate traffic in 100+ degree Oklahoma heat with A/C, power brakes, etc.
#2
If the guides are good, I'd run them. In a case like yours, you don't need any porting, but a nice tight pair of valves and guides goes a long way on the street.
Beats getting a different stock set, and finding they need $500 worth of work anyway.
Beats getting a different stock set, and finding they need $500 worth of work anyway.
#3
If I were in your shoes, I'd do things backwards.
I'd find a known good pair of J heads for $dirt cheap, run those, and sell the C's later on, or hold onto them for a tougher build.
That's just the way I think though. Doesn't mean it's good advice.
I'd find a known good pair of J heads for $dirt cheap, run those, and sell the C's later on, or hold onto them for a tougher build.
That's just the way I think though. Doesn't mean it's good advice.
#5
Some bowl work along with a quality valve job IS noticeable in a street application, IMHO. No need to mess with the ports, good valve job, some radius and clean-up work, definitely. Anything that improves low lift flow will help, and really you are looking at $250-$300, not really that much.
#6
Are those my old heads? I can't remember who I sold them to but your username looks familiar. If they are I would use them but they might need some guide work. If it is my old heads they were replaced with RR heads and picked up very little. I would love to have finished my motor with them. If not them then ignoir this
#7
If you think you are going to run in the 12's with an Abody (that hasn't been massively lightened), streetable gears, reasonable street cam, etc with stock, unported cast iron heads you might reconsider. As you probably know there are varying levels of porting as well.
Didn't know if 12's were a specific goal or not but it takes quite a bit to get there.
Didn't know if 12's were a specific goal or not but it takes quite a bit to get there.
Last edited by 70Post; January 13th, 2012 at 10:16 PM.
#8
My 70 Cutlass S all stock interior:
.030 + 455
270 duration cam, .488 lift
Hedman headers, 2 1/4 exhaust
Th400 S/P
4.10 gears, air bags
Pocket ported E heads with gasket matched ports, 2.07, 1.71 valves
Torker w/ 780 Holley
28x10 M/T slicks
Mid to low 12s
The 4.10s were a bit much and a dual plane probably would have been a better choice be it's easy to get 12s with a 455 and a mild cam and just some bowl work. I think porting does help but a fully ported set of iron heads flow about as well as Edelbrocks right out of the box.
.030 + 455
270 duration cam, .488 lift
Hedman headers, 2 1/4 exhaust
Th400 S/P
4.10 gears, air bags
Pocket ported E heads with gasket matched ports, 2.07, 1.71 valves
Torker w/ 780 Holley
28x10 M/T slicks
Mid to low 12s
The 4.10s were a bit much and a dual plane probably would have been a better choice be it's easy to get 12s with a 455 and a mild cam and just some bowl work. I think porting does help but a fully ported set of iron heads flow about as well as Edelbrocks right out of the box.
Last edited by TripDeuces; January 13th, 2012 at 10:15 PM.
#11
Thanks for all the input! I really don't want to let these go, but I didn't want to be one of those guys buying crap he doesn't need just to feel like one of the cool kids.
Richard - I did talk to you a lot about buying yours but couldn't get the dough together. These are probably in the same ballpark as far as porting.
I bought the heads from chris79ta on ROP. They were ported by CJ455 (Cody Smith). They have new bronze guides and stainless valves as well as dual valve springs set up for a hydraulic roller. They are almost too nice to bolt on and get dirty. Chris lost the flow sheet Cody gave him, but I have every reason to think they'll be killer.
The 455 is going into a full-weight '76 A body. Planning on 3.73 gears and a TH200-4R. It's not going to be driven daily, but it will be mainly a street car.
I'm not really looking to make it run a number, but if it just happened to be roughly as fast as my buddy's GN with the boost cranked up (low 12's), I wouldn't complain.
Richard - I did talk to you a lot about buying yours but couldn't get the dough together. These are probably in the same ballpark as far as porting.
I bought the heads from chris79ta on ROP. They were ported by CJ455 (Cody Smith). They have new bronze guides and stainless valves as well as dual valve springs set up for a hydraulic roller. They are almost too nice to bolt on and get dirty. Chris lost the flow sheet Cody gave him, but I have every reason to think they'll be killer.
The 455 is going into a full-weight '76 A body. Planning on 3.73 gears and a TH200-4R. It's not going to be driven daily, but it will be mainly a street car.
I'm not really looking to make it run a number, but if it just happened to be roughly as fast as my buddy's GN with the boost cranked up (low 12's), I wouldn't complain.
#13
I would also check the spring pressure if you go with a flat tappet cam.
It might be a bit much. You would not want it to wipe out a lobe because of excessive pressure. If you go with a hydraulic roller cam never mind.
It might be a bit much. You would not want it to wipe out a lobe because of excessive pressure. If you go with a hydraulic roller cam never mind.
#14
I salute you f/ having your priorities in order. You take care of the family first and still stick to your automotive projects. Alot of guys will rob from the fam to make their project a go. Keep up the good work. Your day is coming f/ sure. My hat's off to you.
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