Planning a 455 build
#1
Planning a 455 build
I am planning ahead for a 455 engine build for my W-30. i was wondering if these goals are realistic? I will have F heads, original W-455 intake and stock exhaust manifolds and carburetor. i would like to have 500 torque but be pump gas friendly and not smell like gas at idle. This car will have A/C.
i know they claim the W-30 had 500 stock but i figure that was the 4 speed cars, not to mention better gas back then. Will i need to have less compression than original to be pump gas friendly or use a cam that will lower cylinder pressure?
I will very likely get a roller cam and lifters from cutlassefi for this build. i have a new set of SK 240 S valve springs from mondello i got in a trade, will these work for F heads and a roller cam that would get me 500 torque? Would i have to run roller rockers?
Give me your honest thoughts, am i even close to realistic?
i know they claim the W-30 had 500 stock but i figure that was the 4 speed cars, not to mention better gas back then. Will i need to have less compression than original to be pump gas friendly or use a cam that will lower cylinder pressure?
I will very likely get a roller cam and lifters from cutlassefi for this build. i have a new set of SK 240 S valve springs from mondello i got in a trade, will these work for F heads and a roller cam that would get me 500 torque? Would i have to run roller rockers?
Give me your honest thoughts, am i even close to realistic?
#2
I just went to the Mondello website and couldn't find the specs for those springs, we'll need that first.
With the right combo you'll hit close to that 500 figure. But just as important is the whole torque curve as well, you want it to start as early as possible.
I'd shoot for 9.75-10.0:1, that'll work with 91 or better octane.
Of course another way is to stroke it, you'll make 500 easy then. Something to think about.
With the right combo you'll hit close to that 500 figure. But just as important is the whole torque curve as well, you want it to start as early as possible.
I'd shoot for 9.75-10.0:1, that'll work with 91 or better octane.
Of course another way is to stroke it, you'll make 500 easy then. Something to think about.
#3
more info and questions. if i understand right, these springs will not work. there was a paper in the box. they are 1.750 installed height, 130 lbs seat, 290 lbs @ .540. i think they would be for shallow spring seats with the F heads being deep?
i found other parts that i have. ARP rod and main bolts and a windage tray (don't know if the windage tray is needed?). Clevite 77 rod and main bearings for a standard crank. i should have 2 good standard cranks.
also have some pistons but don't know if they should be used in this build. they were bought in the late 80s. they are TRW L2323 and are .40 over. i figure there are better choices now not to mention i would rather not bore it that much if i don't need to. i don't know how many cc the dish is yet.
What are good pistons to use?
i am not building a racecar so i am not worried about traction or times. i just like the feel of feathering the throttle to keep the fine line of traction and breaking traction. then breaking the tires loose most any time i want...although i will only have 3.23 gears. for me the earlier the torque comes the better. i guess if i want 500 it would have to start coming early to get there.
i found other parts that i have. ARP rod and main bolts and a windage tray (don't know if the windage tray is needed?). Clevite 77 rod and main bearings for a standard crank. i should have 2 good standard cranks.
also have some pistons but don't know if they should be used in this build. they were bought in the late 80s. they are TRW L2323 and are .40 over. i figure there are better choices now not to mention i would rather not bore it that much if i don't need to. i don't know how many cc the dish is yet.
What are good pistons to use?
i am not building a racecar so i am not worried about traction or times. i just like the feel of feathering the throttle to keep the fine line of traction and breaking traction. then breaking the tires loose most any time i want...although i will only have 3.23 gears. for me the earlier the torque comes the better. i guess if i want 500 it would have to start coming early to get there.
#4
The Icon 886's are available in every popular oversize.
Correct, those springs are the better part of 100 pounds light on open pressure.
Otherwise, with some bowl blending and the right.overall combo and you should hit your goal.
Correct, those springs are the better part of 100 pounds light on open pressure.
Otherwise, with some bowl blending and the right.overall combo and you should hit your goal.
#5
Next question... To use the roller cam and the valve spring required for the cam, What rockers will i have to use and be able to fit under the stock valve covers? Will the roller tip rockers be strong enough or do i have to go to a full roller? If i use one that will require a double gasket, will it still be low enough to clear the A/C bracket. I can't remember how close the A/C bracket is to the cover.
At this point i think i am going with
Roller cam
Icon 886's
Eagle H beams, i was going to go stock but these are less $ than i thought.
At this point i think i am going with
Roller cam
Icon 886's
Eagle H beams, i was going to go stock but these are less $ than i thought.
#6
I have built alot of street 455s with way more than 500lbs torque, clean up your heads in the bowl area and match to the intake and exhaust using the W30 exhaust gaskets, go ahead and put in 7/16 studs and run Harland Sharp or Skorpion roller rockers and use the edelbrock valve cover gaskets, their .250 thick and you may have to "adjust your baffles a little, also run that windage tray. Dont forget to set your spring height and pressure and if you cc you head that will help. also set up you distributor to have 10 to 12 initial and 34 to 36 total at 3000 rpm. you should have 550 with setting up with this combo.
#7
If you set initial closer to around 20 + or - a degree or two and total to 34-36 it will have much stronger bottom end power. This one change alone dropped nearly .1 off my 60' times and took my car from bottom 12's to 11.90's in the quarter a few years back.
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