I’ve been having a lot of issues with the choke on my 2bbl Rochester. The old thermo choke was so corroded that it broke apart in my hands so I opted for an electric choke that is probably meant for a quadrajet. I had an old 73 cutlass with the 350 that had this choke and it worked great until I swapped carbs to a Holley. The choke lever position is flip flopped from the quadrajet on my 2bbl. Is there any solutions to where I can make this e-choke work?

Also I’ve been having issues with my choke kickdown. Living in Minnesota, chokes and high idle are a requirement on these cars. The choke does not work when cold but when the car starts it decides to start working. Any ideas? Should I just go back to an oem thermo choke?

 

The metal coil should come out of the post, then you can insert it in the opposite direction.

 

Clarification: The Bi-metal spring works exactly opposite on the 2 barrel Rochester's than the Quadrajet. Fun71 is correct

 

I think Joe P said an e-choke from an 80s Chevy pickup with 2GC carb will work for this 2 barrel application.

I ran into this same mess on my Custom Cruiser wagon. I got a Holley Pro Shop reman QuadraJet for it and specified electric choke. It never worked right, exactly backwards from how it should. Finally got an electronic temperature controlled e-choke from Mike's Carburetor and noticed the thermo spring was wound opposite the one on the carb. With the new correctly wound choke stat the engine finally cold started and fast idled like it should.

There are several threads on here about wiring an electric choke from alternator thru an oil pressure switch. Good way to do it. And again Joe P has researched the correct part numbers to make it work.

 

That made my eyes hurt.

 

How To Post Pictures/Images

 

Sorry fun. I was thought I was posting an image. When that didn't work I just closed the browser thinking it won't post. Should be deleted.

 

Standard Motor Products CV291, currently about $27 at RockAuto.

 

I didn't think a link for an image would be that long. Man, that was a wall of characters!

 

I tried flipping the spring like previously mentioned and ended up breaking my e choke so I got an oem one from o Reilly’s. And it’s wound for a 4 barrel……. I tugged at the spring a little bit to see if it wound come out and it won’t. Any good techniques for flipping it? I know it just pulls out but I want to be careful with this one

 

Did you get one for 2-barrel or 4-barrel? One for a 4-barrel is never going to work right if you have 2-barrel carb. Look at what Joe Padavano posted above if you want to keep electric choke.

*edit* Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure all 1973 V8s were four barrel. Think 71 was the last 455 2 barrel. Has this car had an engine or intake/carb swap? Look for presence of an EGR valve on intake, 73 was first year for that.

A lot of strange things were done in the oil embargo years of the 70s...