I have an 84 T-top cutlass and looking to do a motor/trans/rear swap and curious on compatiblity. Would a olds performance 400 crate motor with a 4-speed be a possible option?

 

Olds performance crate motor? I'm guessing you are talking about some builder putting together a package.
If you have a 307 then any "modern" (1964-1990) olds V8 will drop right in. As far as the 4sp goes that might take some work. Most Olds engines were autos and they were not set up for a stick and the crank would need to be modified.
Also I don't know what it takes to put a stick in a G-body that didn't come with one from the factory.

 

svnt442 is right. Also there is two different Olds 400 engines. The 65-67 is a short stroke motor and the 68-69 is a longer stroke like a 455. Those are both what is considered to be a big block and the 403 is a small block same as the original 307. I also agree it will be some creativity to put a stick in a G body but I am sure can be done. The later 70's 350 and 403 engines often were drilled for a pilot bushing even though they came in a automatic car to start with. Not as strong as the earlier engines.
Putting a small block in place of the 307 would be much easier than putting a big block in it's place. I always thought putting a 320 horsepower 330 would be a great swap into one of those cars. You could make it look totally original. with a huge power increase.

 

Performance crate as in buying one from Summit/Jegs. There is a shop nearby that does custom olds motors also. I've seen a 80's Monte Carlo custom before that had a 6 speed from a corvette, so I know it's possible. Just wanting to throw some ideas/questions out there in regards to this.

Thanks!

 

Definitely looking to increase the horsepower and make it scoot, but not going to be drag racing it at the track. Friend had mention putting a 383 stroker in but Chevy motor would have to change motor mounts etc etc and would rather leaving it all olds.

Thanks!

 

I personally think the 330's are under appreciated. I had a 67 Supreme 4 speed
for a short time and that thing would haul. Good luck with your decision.

 

I agree, but then again why use a 330 when a 350 is exactly the same thing with the same stroke, rods, but larger displacement? And why stop there with displacement when the 403 is essentially the same with the same stroke, rods and 50+ more cubic inches?

 

I don't see why you'd do a 400 when a 455 is no more work & is prob more readily available.

 

Small blocks and big blocks use the same motor mounts so thats not an issue in swapping an engine. Now the manual transmission may be a bit harder?

 

Might as well go for an LS if you are going away from original

 

Surfing through ebay I have seen manual transmission conversion kits for G bodies although I can't provide you with a link right now. There are mechanical clutch linkage kits and universal hydraulic kits as well. They come with pedals etc. The 455 fits in the G body engine bay and if you don't want headers 65-72 442 exhaust manifolds work. If you use the stock cast iron intake the carb and air cleaner fit under the hood. 307 accessories can be adapted to use on a 455. Experts correct me if I'm wrong but 403s don't have the z bar locating boss on the drivers side of the block so a hydraulic clutch linkage would be necessary. A good rebuilt Muncie can be obtained for around a grand as many people are going overdrive and those 5 and six speed trans are real expensive. The Muncie fits better, smaller diameter. Hurst would probably know what shifter to get for the Muncie.

 

There are workarounds for the z bar boss, and some 455s do no have it either, iirc user= rambow posted some pics a while back of a 455 w no z bar provision and how he got around it.

 

Where did you see any Olds motor offered by either Summit or Jegs?

FYI, the term "crate motor" originally referred to brand new motors using brand new castings/forgings sold primarily by the OEM manufacturers. GM and Ford still make the distinction between brand new crate motors and rebuilt motors. Now every rebuilder calls their product a "crate motor" instead of a "rebuilt". I guess that's like calling it a "tribute" instead of a "clone".

 

Welcome to the site...

My 85 Supreme in my avatar is 455 powered with a 2004r... No major problems to install... I have seen several manual 4 (5) speed conversions for these G-Bodies... Here's a start for your research:

http://www.4speedconversions.com/78-88-a-g

 

I have a feeling he was talking about a stick, not an automatic overdrive trans.

 

Yes. Ideally was looking to do a 4-speed Muncie, big block motor, 4:10's in rear.

 

Thanks! Appreciate it!

 

Okay good to know. Looking for brand new motor.

 

New or rebuilt with a core?

 

You won't find a brand new Olds motor. There are a handful of NOS motors in crates floating around from the 1960s, but these have not been produced since 1976. Your options are either build your own from a core or buy a motor already built (from a used core). The extent of new parts and refurbishment will vary depending on the source of the motor. You will NOT get a new block casting anywhere. New cranks and rod are available, but few "catalog" Olds rebuilds use them due to cost. New aftermarket aluminum heads are available, but again, you won't typically see these on a "catalog" motor. Now if you spend the money and buy a custom built motor, you can get whatever you want. Don't expect the price to be even close to that of a Chevy crate motor from GM.

 

I was aware of that... The link I provided was for manual trans applications not automatic overdrive trans...

 

I was responding top your comment about the 455/200 4R combo.

 

If you go to all the work of a manual trans, go with a 5 or 6 SPD. I know one guy did the T-56 6 spd and Ford 8.8 rear swap in his 87 Cutlass. He goes by Macar1993 and currently has a 10 to 1 403 Olds in front of it. Don't keep the 7.5" with a manual especially.

 

Those 5 and 6 speed transmissions cost a lot unless you get a deal on a used one. They are physically large and require floor work more often. The Olds has a lot of torque and maybe 5 or 6 speeds aren't necessary. The shifters cost more too. The M20 will work with a lot of different rear axles ratios. The Autogear M22Z is available with a 2.97 first and direct fourth. Strong, fits without surgery. Just a suggestion to look at. If you go manual you absolutely have to find a better rear than the original 7.5. Beefed up rear control arms and some reinforcement around control arm mounting points would be a good idea.