timbadgley34

I recently purchased a 70 Cutlass shell for my first project car. I bought what was supposed to be a running 455 I found on Craigslist. It had a 2-barrel intake on it when I bought it, so I pulled it right away & it all went downhill! To start w/, the intake was bolted on w/ only 2 bolts & RTV. There was 2 badly, BADLY bent pushrods, 1 stuck lifter, 1 lifter missing the clip, & 2 stuck valves. I took the heads to machine shop & he had to replace all exhaust valves, 2 intake valves & 2 guides! I pulled the rest of the lifters & 4 of them were rounded & rough on the bottom, so I pulled the cam. Many of the lobes are rounded as well (which is the point of this post). The rings were completely seized on 3 of the pistons. There's obviously no way this thing was running!

I'm fairly new to engine building, so I'm not sure what my best option for a new cam. I'd like to go as aggressive as possible, but everything in my valvetrain is stock, so I don't wanna cause issues there. I'd really appreciate any advice I can get. Thanks so much!

oldcutlass

Welcome to the site, post what you are going to use for pistons, what heads, transmission, end rear end ratio you have. The guys will let you know of a few cam options.

timbadgley34

Thanks a lot! I have a 400 turbo & the "C" heads. To my knowledge, the pistons & rear end are stock. I also have a 750 Edelbrock for starter. But I'm planning on going to a Fast EFI set-up when I get the car finished in a couple years.

mrhotrod

yes , you will need to know the rear differential gear ratio and tire size also would be helpful.

timbadgley34

The only casting number I can make sense out of is 396021F, but best I can figure out is that it's 68-72. The guy I bought it from said it was '69, but he also said it was a "running motor"! I don't have the original intake either. I had NO clue rear end & tire size had anything to do w/ the cam...I'm even more lost now!

mrhotrod

should be a little metal tag on the rear end if you look at the rear cover it will be secured by one of the cover bolts. some are hard to read but copy the numbers down and post them from that tag.

Fun71

That number was used from 68-76, but previously you said it has C heads, which were used in 68 and 69. IF they are original to the engine. To verify the year of the block, look at the 2nd digit on the VIN pad above the #1 cylinder.

This shows where to look:
Head_ID.jpg

Here's my 1972 455 block:
P5060220.jpg

Fun71

The only metal tag on Olds rearends is the one on posi rears that says Use Limited Slip Diff Fluid Only. The ID is stamped on the passengers side axle tube, as shown below:

1970O-Type12boltcodelocation.jpg

timbadgley34

Thank you for that Fun! My block is a 68.