Need honest opinions and suggestions for my build.
#1
Need honest opinions and suggestions for my build.
Hello all!
It's my first build so any advice, or suggestions I would love to hear.
My goal is not to rev above 5500 but would like as much torque and HP as possible from idle to 5500 rpm. Want the car to sound like a beast also. I won't be racing the car but if I run it hard down the quarter mile just a few times and do long burnouts whenever I show off I don't want nothing breaking for a long time. Let me know what you think or any suggestions please.
Block cleaned, bored .030 over, cleaned decks .020 piston to deck.
Crank grinded .020 rods .020 mains. polished but not heat treated or nitrided. ( was thinking about getting a eagle crank Eagle 104554260-AR100 Cast Steel Crankshaft with ESP
Stock rods with ARP bolts.
Clevite P series bearings and Clevite cam bearings.
KB pistons IC886ktd-030 with rings. Summit raised the price to 731.55 nexty day after I purchased mine $515 the day before.
Compression should be in the 10.5 neighboorhood with e-brock .038 gasket.
Edelbrock heads. Bolt on out the box purchased bolts not studs.
Harland Sharp roller rockers. BTR racing. Ones from Bill's book.
Still haven't bought pushrods.
Edelbrock RPM airgap port matched.
Stock main caps. should I get bolts or studs?
Oil hole opened up near timing chain to drain better. Also cleaned up the long opening in the lifter valley above the cam.
No cam or lifters yet.
No carb yet saving the easy part for last.
No distributor yet but I have a stock 72 olds HEI in the garage.
Hooker headers. Still haven't ordered.
Stock oil pan.
Not sure if i need standard or high volume oil pump.
Planning to run 91 octane.
Stock stall converter but I can upgrade. Turbo 350 trans. Stock rear gears for 72 Cutlass S only one wheel spins. I'm not so focused on the transmission and back for now because I just want to build the motor right first then i can do the rest later or next year.
Please let me know what I'm missing or if I went wrong anywhere or what I can upgrade. Funny thing is before I joined this website I knew 0 about Olds but I been reading here and other books and asking questions for a year now so I feel I'm almost there. Thank you everyone who viewed this or helped in the past!!
It's my first build so any advice, or suggestions I would love to hear.
My goal is not to rev above 5500 but would like as much torque and HP as possible from idle to 5500 rpm. Want the car to sound like a beast also. I won't be racing the car but if I run it hard down the quarter mile just a few times and do long burnouts whenever I show off I don't want nothing breaking for a long time. Let me know what you think or any suggestions please.
Block cleaned, bored .030 over, cleaned decks .020 piston to deck.
Crank grinded .020 rods .020 mains. polished but not heat treated or nitrided. ( was thinking about getting a eagle crank Eagle 104554260-AR100 Cast Steel Crankshaft with ESP
Stock rods with ARP bolts.
Clevite P series bearings and Clevite cam bearings.
KB pistons IC886ktd-030 with rings. Summit raised the price to 731.55 nexty day after I purchased mine $515 the day before.
Compression should be in the 10.5 neighboorhood with e-brock .038 gasket.
Edelbrock heads. Bolt on out the box purchased bolts not studs.
Harland Sharp roller rockers. BTR racing. Ones from Bill's book.
Still haven't bought pushrods.
Edelbrock RPM airgap port matched.
Stock main caps. should I get bolts or studs?
Oil hole opened up near timing chain to drain better. Also cleaned up the long opening in the lifter valley above the cam.
No cam or lifters yet.
No carb yet saving the easy part for last.
No distributor yet but I have a stock 72 olds HEI in the garage.
Hooker headers. Still haven't ordered.
Stock oil pan.
Not sure if i need standard or high volume oil pump.
Planning to run 91 octane.
Stock stall converter but I can upgrade. Turbo 350 trans. Stock rear gears for 72 Cutlass S only one wheel spins. I'm not so focused on the transmission and back for now because I just want to build the motor right first then i can do the rest later or next year.
Please let me know what I'm missing or if I went wrong anywhere or what I can upgrade. Funny thing is before I joined this website I knew 0 about Olds but I been reading here and other books and asking questions for a year now so I feel I'm almost there. Thank you everyone who viewed this or helped in the past!!
#2
Hello all!
It's my first build so any advice, or suggestions I would love to hear.
My goal is not to rev above 5500 but would like as much torque and HP as possible from idle to 5500 rpm. Want the car to sound like a beast also. I won't be racing the car but if I run it hard down the quarter mile just a few times and do long burnouts whenever I show off I don't want nothing breaking for a long time. Let me know what you think or any suggestions please. I'd do the Eagle rods, then you can float the pins too.
Block cleaned, bored .030 over, cleaned decks .020 piston to deck.
Crank grinded .020 rods .020 mains. polished but not heat treated or nitrided. ( was thinking about getting a eagle crank Eagle 104554260-AR100 Cast Steel Crankshaft with ESP
Stock rods with ARP bolts.
Clevite P series bearings and Clevite cam bearings.
KB pistons IC886ktd-030 with rings. Summit raised the price to 731.55 nexty day after I purchased mine $515 the day before.
Compression should be in the 10.5 neighboorhood with e-brock .038 gasket. Actually closer to 10.0:1 with that combo
Edelbrock heads. Bolt on out the box purchased bolts not studs.
Harland Sharp roller rockers. BTR racing. Ones from Bill's book.
Still haven't bought pushrods.
Edelbrock RPM airgap port matched.
Stock main caps. should I get bolts or studs? Studs
Oil hole opened up near timing chain to drain better. Also cleaned up the long opening in the lifter valley above the cam.
No cam or lifters yet.Flat tappet or roller?
No carb yet saving the easy part for last.
No distributor yet but I have a stock 72 olds HEI in the garage.
Hooker headers. Still haven't ordered.
Stock oil pan.
Not sure if i need standard or high volume oil pump. Either way
Planning to run 91 octane.
Stock stall converter but I can upgrade. Upgrade to 2400 or so. Turbo 350 trans. Stock rear gears for 72 Cutlass S only one wheel spins. I'm not so focused on the transmission and back for now because I just want to build the motor right first then i can do the rest later or next year.
Please let me know what I'm missing or if I went wrong anywhere or what I can upgrade. Funny thing is before I joined this website I knew 0 about Olds but I been reading here and other books and asking questions for a year now so I feel I'm almost there. Thank you everyone who viewed this or helped in the past!!
It's my first build so any advice, or suggestions I would love to hear.
My goal is not to rev above 5500 but would like as much torque and HP as possible from idle to 5500 rpm. Want the car to sound like a beast also. I won't be racing the car but if I run it hard down the quarter mile just a few times and do long burnouts whenever I show off I don't want nothing breaking for a long time. Let me know what you think or any suggestions please. I'd do the Eagle rods, then you can float the pins too.
Block cleaned, bored .030 over, cleaned decks .020 piston to deck.
Crank grinded .020 rods .020 mains. polished but not heat treated or nitrided. ( was thinking about getting a eagle crank Eagle 104554260-AR100 Cast Steel Crankshaft with ESP
Stock rods with ARP bolts.
Clevite P series bearings and Clevite cam bearings.
KB pistons IC886ktd-030 with rings. Summit raised the price to 731.55 nexty day after I purchased mine $515 the day before.
Compression should be in the 10.5 neighboorhood with e-brock .038 gasket. Actually closer to 10.0:1 with that combo
Edelbrock heads. Bolt on out the box purchased bolts not studs.
Harland Sharp roller rockers. BTR racing. Ones from Bill's book.
Still haven't bought pushrods.
Edelbrock RPM airgap port matched.
Stock main caps. should I get bolts or studs? Studs
Oil hole opened up near timing chain to drain better. Also cleaned up the long opening in the lifter valley above the cam.
No cam or lifters yet.Flat tappet or roller?
No carb yet saving the easy part for last.
No distributor yet but I have a stock 72 olds HEI in the garage.
Hooker headers. Still haven't ordered.
Stock oil pan.
Not sure if i need standard or high volume oil pump. Either way
Planning to run 91 octane.
Stock stall converter but I can upgrade. Upgrade to 2400 or so. Turbo 350 trans. Stock rear gears for 72 Cutlass S only one wheel spins. I'm not so focused on the transmission and back for now because I just want to build the motor right first then i can do the rest later or next year.
Please let me know what I'm missing or if I went wrong anywhere or what I can upgrade. Funny thing is before I joined this website I knew 0 about Olds but I been reading here and other books and asking questions for a year now so I feel I'm almost there. Thank you everyone who viewed this or helped in the past!!
#3
The cam is a major driver on the outcome for your build. You might want to get a builder on the line to help you choose. Mark (cutlassefi) is an Erson dealer, so he can certainly help. I've enjoyed the UltraDyne grinds which can still be made by Bullet Cams. Given the tranny and rear, pretty much anything will have gobs of torque. Some folks will say "no one ever thought they got too big of a cam", but it's OK to be a little conservative. You might want to stick in the 230's maybe into the 240's for duration at 0.050".
Do verify the rear end gearing. That can make a huge difference.
IMO, sounds like you're going for a pretty direct and simple build. I'd stick with the stock crank, rods, and bolts all around.
Don't forget to balance the rotating assy.
Do verify the rear end gearing. That can make a huge difference.
IMO, sounds like you're going for a pretty direct and simple build. I'd stick with the stock crank, rods, and bolts all around.
Don't forget to balance the rotating assy.
#4
a very wise man once told me when selecting a cam once you decide on the cam you want, the one that you think is perfect, order the the next "smaller" grind... unfortunately for me i was 17 and had already spent my money on a comp cams 280 magnum so i ran what i had. Gary later did a cam change in my buddys firebird and used a cam in the 256 range, that thing was a monster on the street ('73 poncho 455 SD) out on the highway our cars were fairly even but he didn't give up a thing... well, his car didn't have that lope to it like mine did...
there have been more motors built since that one, an amc 360, a chebbie small block and another olds 455 come to mind. i used the comp 260 high energy cam in all of them and couldn't have been happier. the 455 olds went into a '73 3/4ton 2wd suburban with 3.42 gears and it'd run 120 mph with pedal to spare, quick getting there too. i love that lope but it's at the bottom of my list of priorities these days...
there have been more motors built since that one, an amc 360, a chebbie small block and another olds 455 come to mind. i used the comp 260 high energy cam in all of them and couldn't have been happier. the 455 olds went into a '73 3/4ton 2wd suburban with 3.42 gears and it'd run 120 mph with pedal to spare, quick getting there too. i love that lope but it's at the bottom of my list of priorities these days...
#6
BTW, do at least check over the ebrock heads carefully before installing. Mine had a lot of plastic from the bag embedded in the rocker stud threads and packing trash in there. Also take a quick look through all the ports to make sure there's no major casting problems.
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March 11th, 2010 08:49 PM