My first build in 20 years and I pick a 455!
#1
My first build in 20 years and I pick a 455!
Ok I pulled the 455 apart. One piston had a cracked oil ring lip. One pin is really tight and two have rings stuck in there groves.
I have more pistons and rods. All are standard. The cylinder walls are nice, small lip at the top that you can feel but can’t see. The lifters hole are good.
So where do I go from here. My thought is to have it honed the crank ground and the rods redone.
I haven’t done this on my own in 20 years or more. Wild guess of what this will cost?
I have more pistons and rods. All are standard. The cylinder walls are nice, small lip at the top that you can feel but can’t see. The lifters hole are good.
So where do I go from here. My thought is to have it honed the crank ground and the rods redone.
I haven’t done this on my own in 20 years or more. Wild guess of what this will cost?
#5
The bores need to be measured and if out of round you will prob need an overbore. It depends on the measurement. I would plan on all new pistons and for sure the crank has to go to the machine shop for turning and checked for straightness and wear. The rod big end absolutely needs to be checked and trued. Then the usual things like lifters, valve job, oil pump, etc needs to be done...
#6
Yup, that gives me a clue of what is might cost. Thanks
The plan is street and something that will eat stock Mustangs… I not building a race engine. Just restoring plus a cam maybe rollers??? I want it to stay something I can drive without getting in trouble.
Need to get it cleaned before the magna fluxed… Got a set of non G heads (I have to look in the pile) for a set.
I still hoping not to bore. Saves the cost of pistons. The rod, block, and crank are the norm. After finding some damage I pulled out some from another motor for when it goes to the shop. I have enough spare parts. (I hope). I have a half set of 30 over. The other half ether met the head or the crank. Little blue bottle at one time. (No plans to use). When I pulled it apart, the bottom end was very clean and the bearings look very good. I haven’t looked inside the pump but the screen looked clean.
The heads that came with the motor are “G” with two bent valves and three bent push rods. All damage looks to be top end. The timing chain had ½ inch of slap. The block was spared. I think is was someone floating valves??
The plan is street and something that will eat stock Mustangs… I not building a race engine. Just restoring plus a cam maybe rollers??? I want it to stay something I can drive without getting in trouble.
Need to get it cleaned before the magna fluxed… Got a set of non G heads (I have to look in the pile) for a set.
I still hoping not to bore. Saves the cost of pistons. The rod, block, and crank are the norm. After finding some damage I pulled out some from another motor for when it goes to the shop. I have enough spare parts. (I hope). I have a half set of 30 over. The other half ether met the head or the crank. Little blue bottle at one time. (No plans to use). When I pulled it apart, the bottom end was very clean and the bearings look very good. I haven’t looked inside the pump but the screen looked clean.
The heads that came with the motor are “G” with two bent valves and three bent push rods. All damage looks to be top end. The timing chain had ½ inch of slap. The block was spared. I think is was someone floating valves??
#7
It could have been a demolition derby engine with those problems. I would find a running engine to begin a low budget build or mag that block before throwing any $ into it. Look for a "good" set of heads already done or "maybe" a set of Pro-comps, both are cheaper than building a good flowing set from questionable cores. Jmo, Ken
#9
I have a set of usable heads
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150646897767...84.m1555.l2649
they look pretty ready to go, to me. Knock off about $100 right away if you DO NOT buy them thru epay/paypale. Yes, their fees are that much.
you *can* hone the block and use worn pistons and new rings, but you may not like the result. Considering the work involved to re-fix that, you may wish to opt for inexpensive new pistons.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150646897767...84.m1555.l2649
they look pretty ready to go, to me. Knock off about $100 right away if you DO NOT buy them thru epay/paypale. Yes, their fees are that much.
you *can* hone the block and use worn pistons and new rings, but you may not like the result. Considering the work involved to re-fix that, you may wish to opt for inexpensive new pistons.
Last edited by Octania; May 8th, 2013 at 10:25 AM.
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