Intake gasket question
#1
Intake gasket question
Hello, i need a little fast answer, on the stock Iron intake its a aluminum big gasketpan, look at the pic, is it nessesary to use it on the edelbrock performer intake? Have gasket for the edelbrock intake but that is just gasket for the heads and not a big Pan like thiS.
Another question, can i reuse the aluminum gasket for the stock Iron intake? Just use new gasket sealant around the holes?
Another question, can i reuse the aluminum gasket for the stock Iron intake? Just use new gasket sealant around the holes?
#2
There was some debate about this when I was putting my 350 back together. I went with the "turkey tray" which is what you have pictured. The thinking is that it keeps oil from splashing on the underneath of the intake, keeping it cooler. Other folks don't like to mess with it; it's harder to install. I don't know that you'd see a difference to be honest.
And I don't have a ton of experience but I would never reuse a gasket, especially on an intake. I believe there is some "crush" that needs to take place.
And I don't have a ton of experience but I would never reuse a gasket, especially on an intake. I believe there is some "crush" that needs to take place.
#3
This is the steel "Turkey tray." It should NOT be used a 2nd time.
It is designed to compress once. There are several threads on the subject.
If a person scrolls all the way to the bottom of any given thread, there are many
more threads available for viewing. And at the bottom of those, and at the bottom...
You see where I'm going with this. Yes you can use the Edelbrocks, Splash up oil
will cook some on the underside of the intake if a turkey tray or variant is is not used.
It is designed to compress once. There are several threads on the subject.
If a person scrolls all the way to the bottom of any given thread, there are many
more threads available for viewing. And at the bottom of those, and at the bottom...
You see where I'm going with this. Yes you can use the Edelbrocks, Splash up oil
will cook some on the underside of the intake if a turkey tray or variant is is not used.
#4
If you blocked the exhaust cross overs in the heads I would say you are good with the smaller fiber gaskets, but if you are using the cross overs I would recommend that you use a valley tray or the original valley pan, there are several threads here if you search.
I wouldn't use a used valley pan again.
Just my thougts / Anders
I wouldn't use a used valley pan again.
Just my thougts / Anders
#7
#9
Question: Have you got a pic of the runners on your Edel intake?
You may get away with the edel gasket if the exhaust runners on the
intake are solid. Guys? I still think they will cook somewhat.
You may get away with the edel gasket if the exhaust runners on the
intake are solid. Guys? I still think they will cook somewhat.
#10
Her is a pic of the Steel Pan gasket and the edelbrock intake, its not sealed, maybe the edelbrock gasket is designed for aluminum heads?
Last edited by Oldsragger; March 10th, 2015 at 12:16 PM.
#11
Isn't there blocking shims included with the edelbrock gaskets?
If not- you can make some of THIN sheetmetal, just give 'em some bumps with a ball peen hammer so they won't wander away. Place between head and gasket with the bulge you've made with the hammer in the head exhaust opening.
/Anders
If not- you can make some of THIN sheetmetal, just give 'em some bumps with a ball peen hammer so they won't wander away. Place between head and gasket with the bulge you've made with the hammer in the head exhaust opening.
/Anders
#12
Its only gasket and some install info, its says nothing more that use some silicone gasket too,, Well the gasket is very stiff,, and the hole in the heads are small with the exhaust part, i guess this install will be fine aftee the intake is torqued? Its two bolts between the exhaust hole too.
#13
#16
I will just wash the intake first tomorrow, dry it 100%, silicone on the gasket to intake,let it dry and make holes for that exhaust system.
Im so stupid,why i didnt think on that before. Yeah i will, i have a Permatek gasket marker Oil resistant, so i will just use that all around i Will continue tomorrow, thanks for answers
Im so stupid,why i didnt think on that before. Yeah i will, i have a Permatek gasket marker Oil resistant, so i will just use that all around i Will continue tomorrow, thanks for answers
Last edited by Oldsragger; March 10th, 2015 at 12:55 PM.
#17
#19
It's there to heat the carburetor for increased fuel atomization. I can imagine in the cold parts of the world during the dead of winter the carb might never get warm enough for the engine to run without that exhaust crossover.
#20
One of the reasons I ave never filled mine. It can get to zero here without yet having ice or snow. And you can bet if that's the case, I'm going to drive her
#22
I use the same tread to ask where i can get Head cilynder gasket for a 400 G block, the block is 0.30" over bore. what will be the option to use if so?
I Just think it would be nice to know where to get some of these gaskets when i will replace them in the future. The gaskets i have now it should have low miles cause the engine have been rebuild for some yrs ago.
I Just think it would be nice to know where to get some of these gaskets when i will replace them in the future. The gaskets i have now it should have low miles cause the engine have been rebuild for some yrs ago.
#24
I use the same tread to ask where i can get Head cilynder gasket for a 400 G block, the block is 0.30" over bore. what will be the option to use if so?
I Just think it would be nice to know where to get some of these gaskets when i will replace them in the future. The gaskets i have now it should have low miles cause the engine have been rebuild for some yrs ago.
I Just think it would be nice to know where to get some of these gaskets when i will replace them in the future. The gaskets i have now it should have low miles cause the engine have been rebuild for some yrs ago.
#25
No, not re-use gaskets,lol, i Just want to know if its aviable head cilynder gaskets out on the market, that fit the block when its 0.30" over.. Im not sure right now if its possible to use 455 gaskets if they are not to big for the cilynder hole.
No the heads are still on and the gasket should be fine, they are not used much.
Maybe the gasket water/Oil hole markings are same from 400-425-455?
No the heads are still on and the gasket should be fine, they are not used much.
Maybe the gasket water/Oil hole markings are same from 400-425-455?
Last edited by Oldsragger; March 17th, 2015 at 02:47 AM.
#26
OK, back to the intake/water gasket, i use a permatex sealer around all hole,Oil/water ressistant, but i think that the permatex gasket can not handle gasoline, and the gasoline will pass the intake to head, and there is permatex gasket between,
do you think the gasoline Who will pass the ports will destroy the permatex sealer with the time and begin to leak down to the engine? :/ the gaskets is installed and the sealer standing and drying.
Should i take it off again and clean all holes again and try to clean/rescue the gasket and use Oil/gasoline resistants permatex instead?
EDIT: i order the permatex gasoline/oil resistant gasket marker instead, im not sure if its nessesary to use gasket marker on the gasket but i will do it anyway on both sides. Hopefully i will not destroy gasket when take it off and clean it again.
do you think the gasoline Who will pass the ports will destroy the permatex sealer with the time and begin to leak down to the engine? :/ the gaskets is installed and the sealer standing and drying.
Should i take it off again and clean all holes again and try to clean/rescue the gasket and use Oil/gasoline resistants permatex instead?
EDIT: i order the permatex gasoline/oil resistant gasket marker instead, im not sure if its nessesary to use gasket marker on the gasket but i will do it anyway on both sides. Hopefully i will not destroy gasket when take it off and clean it again.
Last edited by Oldsragger; March 18th, 2015 at 05:14 AM.
#27
My 350 calls for rtv around all the holes but I don't recall it saying it had to be gasoline resistant. I wouldn't pull it just to change the sealer. And definitely don't reuse the same gasket if you do.
But again, I used the turkey tray
But again, I used the turkey tray
#28
This gaskets is new on pic above, but i forgot that the gasket sealer is not gasoline ressistant, so i will dissasemble it and not try do damage it and remove all gasketsealer and place a new gasoline/oil ressistant all permatex.
#30
It was my plan too, to use the one i have allready done now, but have it only around the water holes and in front and rear of the intake manifoild, and use the gasoline/oil resistant around intake holes..
#31
#34
are you wondering if you can scrape the rtv off the fiber gasket and use the aviation?... if so you should be able to without a problem
as long as it was not torqued and the rtv comes off pretty clean
as long as it was not torqued and the rtv comes off pretty clean
Last edited by pogo69; March 18th, 2015 at 11:13 AM.
#35
Yeah nothing is torqued, just light handpressed on the heads, my plan was to let it dry finish before install the intake. Hm let me check the permatex i used on this, but i think it was a rtv type, i Will google it to check.
#38
I Just dissasemble the Iron intake with the valleypan, and the valleypan was used gasket sealer on both sides.
Around all holes.
In my new pic abow i use this gasket sealer, (this one i will remove again gause it not gasoline resistant) i will not take chances.
Around all holes.
In my new pic abow i use this gasket sealer, (this one i will remove again gause it not gasoline resistant) i will not take chances.
#40
Oldsragger is correct; the valley pan is a gasket. IIRC, the instructions say lay a good bead of rtv around the water holes and a thin bead around the intake holes. As others have said in this thread, the permatex is a good choice for the intake holes. And make sure to follow the recommended bolt torque sequence.