What up guys. I'm new to the site. I am looking for a 455 for my 86 Cutlass Supreme.

I got a 307 and a TH350 tranny in it already so it should be a direct swap out. Use my 307 mounts and get some aftermarket headers, etc...

Having some trouble finding a motor though. I am looking for a motor that I can rebuild. So I am not looking to spend too much on one.

Also, I have been reading up on casting numbers but I don't know which one I should be looking for. I see different lettered casting numbers mean high output or high performance?

I plan on trying to squeeze around 400hp out of my engine. Just trying to have a nice street runner that still has highway manors.

I live in Birmingham, AL and if you guys can help me out with some info on shops here or near here, maybe even a place where I can get an engine, that would be great.

 

That turbo 350 won't hold back a 455, get a turbo-400.

Check your local scrap yards, at the very least you can usually find a bare block lying around. When I was hunting for my 455, I found a block and one head at a yard for $100...but I held out and found my monster motor for really cheap eventually.

Also, check your local craigs list for a motor. People will have them in boats, too.

 

I know about the tranny already. I was just mentioning what I have in it now. I plan on getting a 400 and rebuild it with a nice shift kit. I am just having a tough time finding a motor. I could buy one from the parts store but they want 1500+core and that is just a standard block with low priced internals without intake and etc.... Don't want to spend that much then have to turn around and tear it down to put in performance parts.

I check the local junk yards weekly but no luck and its been months.

 

you'd be surprised what you can find just by driving around. i've found a few 455's lying around in fields, you can check local body shops that do vehicle restorations, if they restore an olds with a parts car you may find a 455 that they're just gonna toss or sell. watch craig's list like a hawk, and keep a lookout in your local paper for cars that may have a 455 lurking in them.

 

You can use this website. I used it when I was looking for a 455 and they replied to my inquiry quickly.

http://www.usedpartscentral.com/request.htm

 

Also, don't be afraid to find a 425 instead. They share the same block, the heads are interchangeable, and you can take a 425 block and put 455 guts in it.

 

Well, I don't really drive around and look since I am still fairly new to this area. I've been here for 4 years but I haven't been to the remote areas of my city. I have been around but not in each nook and cranny. I got a shop in mind to do the rebuild and they are also on the lookout for me.

I will try the site and see what kind of hits I can get. Thanks.

I never thought about getting a 425. I will include that in my search. Question though? If I do get the 425 and rebuild it with 455 guts, what kind of issues or power could I expect from this combo. I ask because that is essentially similar to stroking an engine, right? Putting a larger crank and internals in the block? I guess, I am trying to say will it still have the HP and TQ range as a normal 455 or will it be like one of those strokers with tons a TQ and decent HP?

 

no. if you put 455 internals in a 425 block, you will have a 455

 

The term is meaningless. Using the modern (internet) definition, a 455 is a "stroker motor".

Norm

 

You might try 442.com they have alot of parts and big block stuff for sale or rocketracingperformance.com, mondello or dick miller racing.com they all carry big block kits, blocks etc. I think I would stay away from the 425 into a 455 by swapping the internals. The 425 has a different lifter bank angle than the 455 so the cam and I think the timing chain are different because of this and the rods and crank both have different strokes to make the 425, not sure if the 455 crank and rods will clear the block internals.

 

Thanks I will look these places up. I would like to buy something I can build up myself. Not really myself but something I can work on at my own pace. I don't have the money to go and get one fully dressed and complete. I am in an apartment complex and my Olds is in storage back home so I want to work on the engine while I save to buy a house to bring it up here with me. Piece by piece as the money comes along according to my budget. If you guys run across a good deal, let me know.

 

Hi just go to the top of this page, then klick on the tech, after that you will find you answer to you questions. you could take a '65 to '67 425 but look for the Toro D block this is a 39 angle bank, it just will have the biger lifter but it is a 385hp engine with lots off tq, there is no different (timing chain is the same) els to the 455 exept for the stroke. as far i know you can NOT put the internals from a 455, crank will not fit, in to the 425 but you could take the some internals (crank) from the 425 to the 455 this will work fine

Berend

 

Some do, some do not. Some use a larger diameter lifter, some do not. Other than that, there is no difference between the two blocks.

The 45° engine uses a different grind, which is available from many sources. All late Olds engines use the same timing chain.

Timing chain and rods, have nothing to do with the ¼" difference in strokes. The rod/piston combination has everything to do with compensating for that difference.

If you are not sure, why would you contradict the above three people, who do know?

Norm

 

442.com and Mondello, are not the most reliable of sources. Rocket Racing and Dick Miller are.

Because of the scarcity of replacement lifers, the 425 block with .921" lifter bore diameter is the only one to avoid.

Norm

 

Cut and paste from 442.com. Not the most reliable of sources.

That is the common (undocumented) consensus. Good thing to check, while doing the inspection, before the deal goes forward.

Which, as stated above, makes it the (only) version to avoid.

In that era, advertised HP was just that. Only loosely related to the actual power output.

Do you think I should take the 455 crank, rods, and pistons, out of my



mid eleven second 425 block, because they will NOT fit?

Interesting. The blocks are identical, but the reciprocating assemblies will not interchange.

I think, we have two new members who have been visiting the dark side of the internet.

Norm

 

I have a friend in Texas that has a bunch of Olds big blocks. PM me for his contact info.

 

Wow hell of alot of opinions out there. If the blocks are the same why the different lifter angle and or size depending on year? Yea ok maybe the internals will interchange that's why I said I wasn't sure. I've made alot of contacts and friends through 442.com all with the same thing in common, oldsmobiles.

 

65-67 big blocks were kinda weird. My 66 400 has the common 39* cam bank angle but the larger (and more $$$) .921 lifters. Some had smaller lifters. Some had 45* cba. Only the Toro 425's had the 39* cba. How to tell one is something I don't know. Of course, 68+ 455 you can find anything you want. But the 65-7's all had forged steel cranks and rods from the factory. It all depends on what you want and how deep your wallet is. I got my motor on ebay for $300 and just found out that it's good to go for building.

 

Click here

Norm

 

The same casting and machining, with the exception of the lifter area. The lifter bores were machined to different specs.

No "maybe" about it. It is common knowledge.

Many people do not read well enough to make the distinction between a fact, and a random "guess".

One of the primary reasons there are so many myths on these sites.

Congratulations.

Norm

 

let me kow I have a 1972 455 complete except the crank. I am located in Omaha NE.

 

PM sent

 

Dick Miller's shop is like a 4 hour drive from here. Is he pretty reasonable, I mean I am trying to build this in portions since I don't have the money to drop all at once. I shopped some guys shops here and they are trying to rob with no gun.

 

What is reasonable for me, may not be for you. Contact him and ask.

Price is relative. You got to pay, if you want to play.

Norm

 

Yeah, I am going to contact him this weekend. Also, I know it costs and that is no problem because I want power and its not cheap.

I guess you would just have to hear some of their tickets to judge. Plus they are charging all this with no warranty.

 

Like my buddy Matt that has a Dodge Ram with a Cummins that makes 700hp puts it

 

Norm's right.

And don't tell me that the guts won't fit in a 425 block, because my 455 started her long life as a 425.

It's actually probably a 463, or whatever a .30 overbore turns out to be. I've yet to measure the bore, but I'm quite sure the folks who had the motor before me bored it at least that much over.

 

Is this a good set up?

.40 over 455 block (1972)
stock crank than needs to be turned
.40 over keith black pistons mounted on gm rods that have been magnafluxed
new package of arp rod bolts
offenhauser intake
holley 750 double pumper
complete j heads (also i will include a new set of 2.072 gm valves and springs.
stock rocker arms & pushrods
water pump
flexplate
stock balancer
stock pulleys
and i have a comp cam not sure of the grind but i will throw it in too

Found this setup and was wondering your opinions. I don't know much about Keith Black pistons. Let me know. I might buy this setup.

 

Not possible to answer without knowing if the parts will actually fit your needs.

The year makes no difference. Whether the finished bore matches the pistons, does.

Was it inspected/mag'ed? How much will it take to clean it up?

Are the pistons new? What dish and pin height? 6.735" rods? Have they been straightened and resized?

Not needed at your power level, but overkill is not always a bad thing. After they are installed, the big end of the rod will need to be resized. The pistons will have to be removed, so they will fit in the fixture, then reinstalled.

Which style? Does it fit in with your goal?

Not the best choice for the street.

What condition?

Valves might be useful if the heads need to be rebuilt. GM springs may or may not be compatible with an aftermarket cam.

What condition?

Condition?

Specs and condition? If it doesn't meet your needs, it's a waste of time and space.

The brand is not important. The specs are.


The most practical approach would be to look for/buy a complete engine, disassemble it, inspect/measure it, spec the rebuild, buy the parts, do the machine work, then the assembly.

If financing is a problem, drive your 307 while you save the cash to do it right. You will thank me.

Norm