Identify these Headers
#5
That would be why they look a little off, thanks 70cutty!
I'm guessing they won't fit my 72 Cutlass then...oh well they were in bad need of paint anyways.
I'm guessing they won't fit my 72 Cutlass then...oh well they were in bad need of paint anyways.
Last edited by bainer1290; February 18th, 2014 at 03:13 PM.
#6
#9
I think 70cutty was right they are Mondello G body headers they look identical I think the angle is fooling us and they are well used
#10
That drivers side header looks very close to my flowtech header on my 1973 442.look at 3 rd cylinder tube goes to the back and turns down..that's built for clutch z-bar to go threw those two tubes..like mine does.. But the passenger looks odd.
#11
How do you like the Flowtech's? Been looking at them they are a great price.
#12
They are to small for what I run.. I need to replace mine with a larger primary header but using money in other project now.. So mine is tuned with just bullet style mufflers..these headers are designed for stock or moderately modified engines or high performance if your running open headers all the time..I purchased ceramic coated in 2002 or 2003 they show little rust just in tight spaces like tube to tube and the fit great on my car...well worth the money spent.. I run on Friday nights uncapped that's when they sound good...and work well...
Last edited by seansolds; February 20th, 2014 at 06:25 PM.
#13
A little pricey. But, anything less is a waste of time
Either run equal-length tuned headers or go with 4-2-1 type construction. The 4-2-1 are the most practical way and offer a power curve best suited to street use. I don't have the original images. But, H.A.M.B. pulled a post of mine which was similar, when Olds owners wanted to replace the manifolds on their old '50s vehicles and were welding together homemade headers which didn't have any scientific merit behind them. They would upload pictures of them, without any sign of shame. Those things looked like some of the projects we did in junior high as 12 year olds in metal shop. The mods there seemed to get a kick out of them making fools out of themselves
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forum...azda-skyactiv/
![](http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mceCfCJ6FX1gOPmzTfajFSQ.jpg)
![](http://www.shop4race.com/media/catalog/product/cache/4/image/200x/b8c7c4390fae4de1a8605e0ebec62004/p/o/powersprint-manifold-golf3.jpg)
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forum...azda-skyactiv/
![](http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mceCfCJ6FX1gOPmzTfajFSQ.jpg)
![](http://www.shop4race.com/media/catalog/product/cache/4/image/200x/b8c7c4390fae4de1a8605e0ebec62004/p/o/powersprint-manifold-golf3.jpg)
![](http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/SkyActiv_2.jpg)
Last edited by Killian_Mörder; February 21st, 2014 at 01:54 AM.
#15
Flowtech headers work fine..they are not a waste of money...and budget is always a factor anyway..the technical advice is appreciated along with the detailed upload of photos..depending on engine application and what you are going to do with it you can spend 250.00 to 750.00 and see a difference in 10-15 more horsepower..don't waist your money on big dollar headers.. I've had mine running on my car for 12 years..that's a lot of bang for my buck..
#16
There is a lot of issues with fitment on early A body cars (search the threads) where you have to modify them to fit. In my opinion I would rather spend extra money on good quality headers that I don't have to install with a hammer.
#17
Sounds like Flowtech might have some issues, for $100 more there are Hooker 3902 and Hedman 58150 options. Any opinions on either of these?
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part.../model/cutlass
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part.../model/cutlass
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part.../model/cutlass
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part.../model/cutlass
#19
Not trying to steal the post, but along the same lines. I have a set of Doug's Ceramic Coated Headers new still in the box. Were bought for my 69 442 and were never swapped on to the car. I have bought a 67 Cutlass and built a 425 to go in it. Does anyone know if the headers designed for the 68-72 A body cars will work on the 67?
#20
My dad had a '67 F-85 and there was plenty of room under the hood. All they did for '68 and up was to round off the edges on the body work. Other than that, everything else relavent under the hood should be in the exact same place
#22
That stuff is the result of good advice prohibition. The mods, there, don't take into account that those guys welding together a bunch of pipes are ruining their classics and are likely prone to tossing their original manifolds into the metal bin. Or if they indeed take it into account, they're entertaining themselves at the expense of those who don't know better.
If someone absolutely wants to weld together a set of headers, that person can come close to equal-lengthed tubes, by getting some of that flexpipe they used to sell at autoparts stores, back then. You know, the type which was installed on old Cords. They could cut all that tinkerer flexy to equal lengths and then tack weld each to a flat piece of 1/4 inch plate and drill only the outer two mounting holes which would be just enough to hold the plate onto the block. Then, mount each end into a flange, fotograph the assembly and then weld their real headers together, copying the Tinkertube toy
If someone absolutely wants to weld together a set of headers, that person can come close to equal-lengthed tubes, by getting some of that flexpipe they used to sell at autoparts stores, back then. You know, the type which was installed on old Cords. They could cut all that tinkerer flexy to equal lengths and then tack weld each to a flat piece of 1/4 inch plate and drill only the outer two mounting holes which would be just enough to hold the plate onto the block. Then, mount each end into a flange, fotograph the assembly and then weld their real headers together, copying the Tinkertube toy
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