Need some more help please. My machine shop finally called and after checking the 455 block i found it is ready to be machined. I will be having the stock rods reconditioned ( with ARP )and have a N crank. Im on a budget so trying to get the most bang for the buck. The block will be bored .030 over and i need to order pistons. These are my thoughts but would like to here from you guys. Ported c heads (stock CCs), i am leaning toward ICON -14cc pistons to get close to 10:1 comp. I am thinking it will save a little weight on the rotating assembly which is always good right?

 

There ok.

 

Gee Velcro great explanation.
The Icons are a 2618 material which requires more piston to wall clearance. They’re fine but they’ll be a little noisier at cold startup than a 4032 piston, ie Wisecos. Both have old style ring packs though, 1/16, 1/16, 3/16.
And don’t waste your money on ARP bolts for stock rods. That’s like putting lipstick on a pig. Stock rods are crap.

 

I will second what Mark said. Not my first choice but they dont seem to be too bad. I have only used a couple of sets myself but have balanced several rotating assemblies with them for customers. They seem to have a lot of oddball combinations that the other manufacturers dont.

 

thanks for the reply. I know you mentioned Wiseco but they have the old style ring packs. What pistons have new ring packs? Am i wasting my money with good pistons and stock rods? What aftermarket rods don't need block mods that are better than stock?

 

after machining, cam bearings and balancing i only have about 2 grand for internals so i want to spend money where it counts. I would love a hyd roller cam but thats out of the question. Mark i may have you hook me up with a flat tappet set up if your still doing that. I will have roller rockers so i would like some lift. I want to hear the cam and have good performance. I have a torker 2 manifold, headers and a holley 770 for now. Car is 3800 lbs, th400 and a 3:35 lsd. Any recomendations on tourqe convertor? Will mostly be short distance driving and an occasional trip to the strip

 

Converter- something in the low 2000rpm range.
I’d use the Wiseco, they’re a little cheaper than the Icons. Put that money towards a set of Scat rods. They’ll fit without mods but still need to be checked.
Let me know when you’re ready for a cam, no problem.

 

https://shop.rocketracingshop.com/RO...-6735-RODS.htm
Another option. I don't know much about them other than the description.

 

Thanks but im going to take Marks advice with the scat rods and they are cheaper.

 

thanks again. Im ordering the wiseco pistons and scat rods Monday. The cheapest place seems to be CNC motorsports. Is there a better place to order from?

 

Scat rods nine times out of 10 need the small end honed/pin fitted. And its possible the big end may be out of spec as well, you need to have them checked, lately the BBC rods have been alright on the big ends, but there was a time we had to resize them all. The small end always needs pin fitted. Its one thing to be out buying parts, but there another aspect of this build you need to be very aware of, and thats the machine work, and working with a shop that can accurately set the bearing clearance up for you.

 

We’ve already gone through this 100 times, you should check all new rods anyway. And most manufacturers keep the small end on the tight side so you can pin fit them as desired.
Rocket Racing rods are Scats. And does anybody here care about how big block Chevy stuff is today?

 

thanks for the reply. I will have them checked. What bearing clearence should we be looking to get?

 

What is the pin fit process? And no i dont care about BBC lol

 

are these the rods you are talking about?
https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/2-45...ds-h-beam.html

 

Yes. Your machine shop will fit the Rods for the wrist pins being used. That clearance is typically around .0007-.0008.
I run .0027-.003 bearing clearance on the rods and .003-.0033 on the mains. Don’t forget to check rod side clearance as well. I recommend no less than .015 for that.

 

thank you. I will show this to them when i drop the parts off.

 

Cant find the Wiseco anywhere. Called Wiseco today and the guy said 10 weeks minimum because they have no forgings. Any idea who may have some .030 over?

 

any experience with these?
https://oldsperformanceproducts.com/...rged-030ff105/

 

any reason you dont want the Mahle's Mark sells?

 

no. Didnt know that was an option? Do you have any info on them?

 

im looking for the following
10.0 - 10.5 compression stock deck and stock C heads. 4032 forged aluminum updated ring packs

 

I think they are a lot larger dish. Maybe 22cc ?

 

Mahle doesn’t offer a stock stroke 455 piston at this time, sorry.
However I have a proprietary piston that Racetec does for me. It’s a 4032, 15cc dish, 1.5, 1.5, 3.00mm ring pack piston. A set of 8 with pins, locks, and rings are $825.00 shipped.

 

Yes just looked up the specs for the 455, Mahle only offers a stroker piston, my bad so sorry.

 

whats the eta on these?

 

About 2 weeks.

 

with stock deck height and stock CCs (c heads) what do recommend to get to 10.5 CR with those pistons? I think i talked about this on another post and i could shave the heads but then someone mentioned the intake may need to be machined as well. Or modify the deck height? Which is cheaper but more importantly which is correct?

 

First of all why 10.5:1?
You’ll a deck of near zero and a head cc of approx 74 to get there.
Your intake should be checked anyway. Why people think you can just slap these on is beyond me.

 

performance is why the 10.5:1. This is all new to me. Have done alot of wrenching in the past but never a complete rebuild. I am learning as i go. Just want to everything right and you seem to be the best source with questions. Have experience in automation machinery so calipers, mics, bore gauges are nothing new to me. Even went to school years ago and was certified in transmissions and engines but never applied it to the real world. The one thing i am learning is each different type of engine has very specific things that need to be done. I know much of it is general but after reading many posts in here some is unique. Since i became a member i have learned alot and now i know how much i dont know lol. Sorry for the long post. I love learning but would pay you in a heartbeat to build me something, i just dont have the cash for that.

 

Thanks.
Shoot for 10.0:1, not 10.5:1, especially with iron heads. And see if your shop is really going to square deck the block or just deck it. There’s a difference.
Lwt me know what you want to do on the pistons if anything.
Best of luck in your project!

 

I am just going to second what Mark said. I would never run 10.5 to 1 with a cast iron head on pump gas. I am even more conservative than him and prefer 9.5 or so. You can run higher but it takes a lot of time and knowledge getting the tuning right to do it.