1965 425 block, tanked, magnafluxed, decked, bored .030 over, and deburded
stock forged polished and balanced crank
stock forged connecting rods on forged Bullet flattop pistons
valve job on stock heads

This is were I am at currently on a 1965 Delta 88 build

Would like to get as much HP as possible from this base, I am aware that the 45 degree cylinder angle will limit my choices?
Please list recommendations for rotating assembly (roller?)

Want a light to light mustang killer (sleeper)

Dutchman is building a Dana 60, 373, Truetrac Detroit Locker, 35 spline chromoly axle shafts with Wilwood drilled and slotted 4 piston disk brakes.
So with 1000 hp rating out back, the power plant can make as much as possible....

Mustang owners don't be hate..en

 

Only a grind on heads, will be doing new springs, guides, rods, retainers and rockers. (Roller)

Also I have a performer single plane high rise intake already, I know that this will play to duration and lift...

I am using a Flaming River rack and pinion, so long tube headers won't have fitment issues.

There is a lot of knowledge here and I look forward to the recomendations!

 

I had a '65 Jetstar I, loaded with the towing package! [4:33 gears]
With the switch-pitch convertor, nothing got me from light-to-light!
Another I should've never sold!

 

I would contact Mark (cutlessefi) on this forum. Great guy!

 

Thanks vetteguy I sent him a PM.

 

It's either a Performer or a single plane. I'd use a Performer for that heavy car.

We can chat about your cam choices, already sent you a return pm.

Thank you real57vetteguy.

 

Your right cutlassefi, it is a Performer (polished).

 

IMO, this will be the limiting factor. HP is in the heads. If you want to get more than 400, you will need to invest in some porting and a quality valve job. Not saying 400 hp/450 tq won't be a hoot to drive, but if you want serious power, you will need to spend $ on the heads, IMHO.

 

Rocket Racing carries aftermarket 7" long connecting rods that are a lot stronger. Comp Cams and others can grind anything you want for the 45 degree lifter angle.

 

Not in a roller though.

 

Wanting to scour the planet in search of the elusive 45 deg roller cam, with the intent of limiting as much drag as possible from the rotating assembly. If a roller becomes a jackalope...then a hyd will need to be ground so the build can proceed!

 

That is going to be my build for the F-85 "rustbucket" a 425! And I will be working with Mark-Cutlass EFI on my cam selection. These 425's are something else. They can be a 455's worst night mare!

 

captjim that is a truism, port matching and a triple grind are a definite on the bare heads. Also plan to do some smoothing and polishing to increase flow...you can't run if you can't breathe!

 

Thanks Run...The factory forged connecting rods cleaned up sweet, and ARP bolts with rolling wrist pins should work well. Or at least this makes sense to me...

 

Rob I saw your posts before I asked mark for help...this is one you will probably follow closely! Sounds like you made your choice...didn’t you have a 455 as well?

 

Just my opinion, but port matching and polishing do very little and can acually hurt. Good valve job and some bowl work go a long way.

 

x2.

 

Yes indeed 65 Delta I build a 455/M-21 4-speed for my 67 442 "Tribute street machine". But I'm looking forward to the high fast rev of the 425. It has a different feeling.
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Finally....roller cam in the works....Andy Miller at Olds Performance is working with me to rolerize the short block and improve the oil flow...still creepin forward!

As for the heads, ya'll make sense with bowl work and quality valve job, also plan to increase valve size and use ss valves in the new set up.

I'll post specs on cam later, as well as specs on valves.

 

So the cam specs out; 230/236 Dur@.050, 518/526 lift, 110 LSA and 108 intake C/L. Also strapping mains, roller bearing thrust bumper, encased torrington roller, double roller timing chain (billet 9 way), crane hyd roller lifters, performance oil pump, 7 qt. pan and a nitride treatment to harden the crank. Should have short block together in a couple of weeks and would love thoughts on carb?

 

830 Quick Fuel.

 

JMO, based on your goals, build, gears, and assuming a good matched converter.

I would use a Quick Fuel SS series 830 cfm mechanical secondary. Very tunable, street friendly, still has a choke.

http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/c...30-cfm-ms.html

 

haha Cutlassefi beat me to it, I gotta get faster at looking up links.

 

thanks cutlassefi...I will have to look into that carb as I have not heard of it before.

It must be a good choice, cause porter was shotgunning the same advice.

 

WOW sexy carb...will have red on the block and carb will be perching on a polished performer intake. I'm looking for the motor to look as good as it runs!

I have yet to address the converter, stock will most likely need replacing as well as flex plate?

 

you should have used a 455 block and used the 425 inners. you would have unlimited choices for a roller cam. JMO

Gene

 

Wanted to build out of the box...I've never seen this car or this motor tricked and built one off. Your right that it would have been easier but I'm up for a challenge, have to create at every turn. After this build I will relax with my A body build, the sport coupe will defiantly be a lot easier.

 

And maybe he wouldn't have had to get the cam from Andy!! Lol.

If you're going to get a new flex plate do it now so he can balance everything together.

 

Thanks cutlassefi...are there advantages to changing up the flexplate?
Also someone let me in on the Andy Miller thing?? Maybe as a newbie I don't have level 3 clearance.

 

I’ve done 3 builds now with Andy Miller over the last 3 years, where I’ve bought 90% of the engine parts from him, and had him do as much of the machine work as possible, minus the block. I’ve done 2 big blocks, one of them was a 455 with a 425 crank, and he’s currently doing a 350 build for me. I’ve bought 2 sets of his stage 3 cnc ported edelbrock heads, and he’s doing up a set of #6 heads for me as we speak. He’s ground me a roller cam and two flat tappets, and I’ve bought everything from rods to billet main caps from him.

I don’t have good machine shops in my area, so I usually buy a stock crank, balancer, flex plate, and pistons from Andy, then ship him my rods and have him to all the machine work and balancing on the rotating assembly. I’ve had nothing but good and positive experiences with him.

If you search all the olds the forums, you’ll see Mark (cutlassefi) has ground a lot of custom cams and has a lot of happy customers on here. I plan on hitting up Mark for a cam on a future small block build. I’m rather new to the forums, otherwise I would’ve hit him up sooner.

As far as your flex plate, I usually wind up buying a new one, just because it isn’t much more money after I factor round trip shipping. I’d say if you’re teeth are all good and it’s straight you could re-use it. I agree with Mark, either way you want to have it balanced with the rest of your rotating assembly. On the 350 build, I bought a custom flywheel from Andy and shipped him a good stock one, so he can balance the engine for both combinations since it’s going into an auto for now and will probably be a manual conversion down the road.

 

Don't worry, Andy Miller knows what he's doing with an Olds, no matter what you hear.

 

Can you elaborate on the install of the flaming river rack and pinion? How much modification is there to install it?

Thanks

 

Flaming River has an XL(wide) Power Rack and Pinion with cradle/pillow block mount that can hit your original steering box mounting point on one side and idler arm mounting point on the other side. With the body off it will not be to hard to set this system up...I think a higher degree of difficulty with the body on if this is what your thinking. The closest match to our B body frame is 67 Lemans/GTO with respect to width and configuration, don't get me wrong it will take a bit of engineering and trouble shooting as nothing is made for our big body cars. As I do the work I will for sure document and share the process for all my Big body friends.

Michael

 

Some shots of my 425 prepped for paint prior to build.

 

But don't forget the A-body setup is for a front-steer chassis, while the B/C-body cars were rear-steer through 1970.
On some cars you can reverse the steering arms on the spindles (or swap the spindles side-to-side) to move the steering linkage forward of the crossmember. No idea if this can be done with the 65-70 big cars, but it's a thought.
Flaming River does make rear-steer racks, too.

 

Copper...all good points and i am going to look at switching the steering arms and look closely at converting to front steer. With the body off I can get some great pics to use in my communication with the people at Flaming River. If it just doesn't work, the rear steer option will still make header fitment much easier.easy....

 

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A shot of the cam prior to installation!
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Shipping intake off to port match w/heads...bailing in the iron "A" heads and installing stage 2 Edelbrock heads.

 

Happy happy joy joy...finally picking up my short block!! Winter has been keeping the progress down on my Delta as well as holidays and bills eating up my working on the car capital but a recent side job has facilitated the homecoming of my short block. Excited to get it back on the engine stand and a new Sata digital in the ready for the paint love!