I've looked on ebay, google searched, I can't seem to find this tool. Does anyone have any idea where I could buy one, new or used?

 

If you are talking old type points, you just need a Lan type wrench.

 

allen wrench works

 

You used to be able to buy this from any auto parts store that sold Lisle tools. It is just a flexible shaft with an allen wrench at the end. Some of them had adapters for screw driver ends to adjust carb screws.

 

Here you are ;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Dwell-A...VZ1PXF&vxp=mtr

 

He must have just relisted it. When I found that ad, it was expired. Thank you very much, I just bought it. It's a lot easier than an allen wrench. Back when I had a Buick, I used to have to turn it a little, start it and look at the meter, and keep doing that until I got it right, because I was afraid of getting hit by the fan. And I did that every week, because that car would eat points. Something about a resistor wire. I never did figure it out, and there was no internet back then.

 

Sounds like your ballast resistor was either missing or was bypassed. Constant 12 volts will burn regular points if just a few minutes on most cars. The resistor will reduce the voltage down to 9 volts and keep the points alive.... Tedd

 

Consider using Accel points, very high quality, also check distributor shaft for play. Many vendors for the points.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...c/applications

 

$40.01 for a set of points and condenser? You can find NOS Delco unit for $15 with free shipping on eBay, or a complete tune up kit, which consists of rotor, points & condenser for $20. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-DELCO-R...0AAOSwZ9xbk7O2

 

I didn't know these cars had a ballast resistor, unless it's that resistor wire I heard about. What do you do with that if it's getting 12V instead of 9V?

I had a Chrysler with that white ballast resistor on the fire wall. They only lasted a month, I used to keep spares in the car.

 

Consider using Accel points, very high quality, also check distributor shaft for play. Many vendors for the points.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...c/applications


Thanks for the info. I got points from a local place. That should be good enough for me. Last time I changed the points, when I got the car, the distributor was fine, no play, the weights moved freely. I did a full tune up at that time, and replaced the vacuum advance more recently.

 

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/PerTr...M-V8,5399.html

 

That is a good price on that Pertronix so you better buy two so you will have a spare when the first one goes out. Don't ask me how I know.

 

We should start a new thread on this subject rather than hijacking the PO thread, but you can just add a ballast resistor to the wire that you are getting 12 volts off of now...... Tedd

 

The difference is probably performance points that can sustain higher RPM vs. stock points that will bounce and cause misfiring. Back in the 80s I used NAPA / Echlin points that were made by Accel in my car as they were superior to the "regular" points and easily went 5800 RPM with no bounce. If one is using points in a cruiser that will never see WOT, then no need for the more expensive points. If you have a heavy foot as I do and the tach sees redline often, then get the Echlin points.