Flooding in the engine room (aaaaoooogah!)

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Old Aug 9, 2021 | 11:58 AM
  #1  
Koda's Avatar
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From: Evansville, IN
Flooding in the engine room (aaaaoooogah!)

I think I got dirt on my seat. Was playing with the 67 442 this weekend, checking timing. I am convinced now that, with 12 degrees at 850 rpm and no vacuum advance hooked up that this thing should move at low rpm, but it really has no ***** at all. I think I need to yank the cam and get this neck wrenching shift kit out of the TH400. I dicked around with the slow idle speed, got it to 1000 in park and 400 in drive when warm, then adjusted mixture screws and got it a little better, but, I can take both screws all the way in and not kill the car, so I am thinking it is running on more than the idle circuit at idle. Other than having an occasional blip where it lost ignition for a split second, seemed ok.

I had taken it for a drive last week and it died, and acted flooded. Starting with the pedal WOT and lots of cranking, it started. Did it worse this week and fortunately died down the alley from the garage. Pushed it home. Waited a while, the gaskets on the quadrajet air horn were damp, so I believe I am flooding. Did light percussive maint with the round end of a box wrench on the air horn, I was thinking the float was stuck down. Got it running; going from crank to start with pedal on the floor is an awe-inspiring event in a 1 car garage when dealing with a large engine. Revved it for a while, shut down, and it restarts normally. I need enough to get it on a trailer here soon to take it south home to me for more attention.

More problems than this will mean I need to pull carb and check float. It could be full of gas, but my money is dirt on seat.
Old Aug 9, 2021 | 01:55 PM
  #2  
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Have had success pinching the fuel pump supply hose closed, run it until carb is dry, release the pinch, crank it and the surge of incoming fuel washes dirt off needle and seat. YMMV, may need to rinse and repeat.

Good luck!!!
Old Aug 9, 2021 | 02:32 PM
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If you can take the a/f mixture screws completely out with no change your either out of the idle circuit or you have a tremendous vacuum leak.
Old Aug 9, 2021 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
If you can take the a/f mixture screws completely out with no change your either out of the idle circuit or you have a tremendous vacuum leak.
I've been working on this thing on and off remotely for 15 years, often sitting for 2 or 3 years at a time. I will finally get it home to me here soon, and I may have to yank cam and yank shift kit, because it drives like trash no matter what I do. "W-30" cam, back wrenching shift kit, and a 3.08 rear don't mix, but that was the state I bought it in. On the good side, I have a spare engine and spare transmissions for it.

It pulls about 7 inches of vacuum at around 1k rpm in park, and by 7 I mean it's fluctuating from 5 to 10. I'll see how fast I can kill it with hand over primaries.
Old Aug 9, 2021 | 03:37 PM
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The vacuum should not fluctuate between 5 and 10. It should be somewhat steady. I suggest you take some time and troubleshoot your issues before changing parts. Hard shifting can be caused by a low vacuum signal to the modulator for one reason or another.
Old Aug 9, 2021 | 07:28 PM
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Certainly. It's hard to find something on it that DOESN'T need work.
Old Aug 10, 2021 | 07:00 AM
  #7  
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X2 koda!


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