While the intake is off the 400G, I plan on correcting the 180° out situation that the assembly shop left me with. I have been running it with the firing order swapped to compensate, knowing I'd get to this..but with the intake out of the way it makes it easier.

My question is this...what direction do I need to turn the dist 180°? I plan on marking straight across to ensure it is a true 180, but I just don't know if I turn it clockwise or counter clockwise.

Thanks in advance (no pun intended)

 

You'll have to physically remove the distributor from the block to do this, and a true 180 out is 1/2 turn. Once it's out you can turn it any which way you want. So pick a directon once you get the distributor out because you'll end up in the same place.

If I'm understanding this correctly, you just want to turn the distributor rotor position 180 out from where it is now. When you lift it from the hole, the helical gears will rotate it slightly on the way out to clear the teeth, then simply rotate the rotor assembly 180 from that point, then drop it straight back in. You may have to do a little wiggling due to the hex shaped oil pump rod, but it usually behaves. Easier than a Chevy that's for sure.

If you want to start from scratch, find TDC on #1 cyl. on the compression stroke. Then, sit the distributor in place where the rotor is pointing in the direction of #1 cylinder and put the clamp and bolt back in and make sure to "re-wire" the cap back to normal firing order. Either way you do it, you have to re-time it. So from there, its fairly straightforward.

 

Correct, I'll be lifting it out and flipping it. The assembler installed it with the vacuum advance pointing toward the drivers side, and the only way we could get it to fire was to invert the firing order (start at 6 instead of 1) I just wasn't sure if it mattered what direction I flipped the dist once out.

 

Wow. Yeah, just make sure to flip that canister back to the passenger side after removal. The housing position doesn't care how it sits in the block.

 

For advancing the distributor, it will move clockwise to advance, spins counter clockwise. So if you flip it around, make sure you have enough room to move it without hitting the firewall.

 

yeah, if it wasn't 180° out and the only issue was where the canister sat, I'd leave it alone.

 

yeah, it's pretty tight on the PS already..but I could probably adjust where the coil sits in the bracket if need be, or turn it more.

 

Rotate the engine so the rotor is pointing at #1. Loosen and lift the distributor and turn the housing and rotor to the position you want, and then turn the rotor to the position you want for #1 and reinsert it. The rotor is now pointing to your new #1, then wire CCW according to the firing order.

 

Confirm that the dimple on the distributor gear points toward the rotor/cap contact. If not fix it while it is out. Also confirm the correct oil galley plug is installed in the block distributor hole.

Good luck!!!

 

Easy way to do this is stuff sometning in the #1 spark plug hole (I used a wine cork) and turn the engine until the "cork pops". Mine sounded like a champagne bottle opening.

 

There is no reason to go through this process as the engine is already running and #1 is already established.

 

Understood. The post was in reference to this:

 

As juvenile as it may be, I was planning on honestly taking a piece of tape or something and just running it over the top of the rotor to prevent it from spinning. I know I'll still need to double check with the light once everything is back together, but this would eliminate any additional variables.

 

Kenneth:
I love the "cork popping" method to find TDC compression location! Very ingenious.
Rodney

 

If you are standing up and want to turn 180 degrees, does it matter if you turn to the right or the left?

As for taping or otherwise holding the rotor, that won't work. As you pull the distributor out of the engine, the helical distributor gear will cause the rotor to turn as you pull up on the housing.

I've never understood the fear over removing and reinstalling a distributor. This isn't rocket science. Use a cork (in my case a wad of paper towel) to pop out of the no 1 spark plug hole at TDC on compression and stab the distributor in. Line up no 1 wire with the rotor and you're done. There's no magic. And FYI, a timing light works even when the engine is cranking, so you can dial in the timing before you actually start the engine, if that makes you feel better. Personally I just leave the distributor bolt a little loose to make it easy to move the distributor while cranking if there's a timing issue.

 

Note that this also occurs when installing the distributor, so you have to set the rotor slightly before your intended final position so that it rotates into the position as the distributor drops into place.

 

Use a marker, 1 dot for where it is now, 2 dots for where it is on removal. A third mark for where the vacuum advance is aimed.

Good luck!!!

 

Well shucks. Alright, at least I know what I'll be getting myself into then.

Now, to actually do it..ha!

 

Joe is correct! It's extremely simple.
Yank that thing.
Put #1 at TDC compression.
Put advance to desired position leaving room to play with timing.
Turn rotor pointing slightly before #1 sparky.
And drop that sucker in.
Rotor will turn on it's way down (helical). Should be pointing at #1. It is very evident if your off a tooth.

 

what makes it evident? I had thought I was when I was told it "has a new Zero" but then was told the new zero is due to cam timing, not ignition timing.

 

Cam timing and ignition timing are two different things. I don't know who set the cam. If you degree the cam correctly, all the above steps for setting distributor timing stand pride and true.

 

I don't even know what "has a new zero" means. TDC is a function of the crankshaft, period. Zero is TDC. Altering cam timing relative to that may or may not be called for, it depends on the cam profile and the intended use of the engine. Once you set the cam relative to the crank, then you dial in the ignition timing. Unless your engine is 100% stock running gasoline of the same type as when the car was new, the factory timing specs are unlikely to be optimum. This is trial and error (unless you have a dynomometer or drag strip). Also be aware that when you reinstall the distributor, not only will the rotor turn slightly as you drop it back into the block, but expect the distributor not to seat all the way down in the block. The hex shaft that drives the oil pump only fits in one of six discrete orientations, and the chances you'll hit one of those exactly are close to zero. No big deal, if the pump shaft doesn't line up, just bump the starter while pushing down lightly on the distributor (body, not the rotor) and the rotation will eventually line up the hex shaft. Since the distributor gear is already engaged with the cam gear, you won't change the rotor position relative to the cam.

 

Agreed, and it was determined that the "new zero" was due to cam timing issues..though the assembler swears there were no assembly issues.

..and to think I paid people to do this to ensure there were no issues. Yet here we are.

 

Cam timing controls when the valves open and close in relation to the crank. Ignition timing controls when the sparkplugs fire in relation to piston position.

 

Correct. Before that was explained to me, I was hoping being off a tooth would explain my "new zero"

 

Just to be clear, if you only change the cam timing relative to the crank (using an adjustable timing set or something similar), that WILL change the timing if you didn't otherwise touch the distributor. It will not change "zero" (top dead center) since that is a function of the crankshaft only, so I'm still trying to understand what your "new zero" was supposed to be. It sounds more like whoever told you that is clueless.

 

This is a good method for getting the rotor in the correct position when dropping the distributor back into the block. I have done similar but forgot to say so.

 

I'm definitely going to save it and give it a whirl