OK, after perusing the 20 or so threads on engine oils, reading numerous arguments, etc, I believe due to ease of purchase, cost, and reliability, I'm going to go with Shell Rotella T 15W-40 in my rebuilt 400 for my '68 442. The car will be in Phoenix, so the engine will obviously be seeing some heat.

I guess my main question is, during break in period, can I simply use the Rotella T, or should I go with a break-in oil? I've read somewhere that Rotella T does not recommend any additives, so it'd be just that during break in if that's what I used. Not sure if this is myth or fact.

Just using regular oil during break in worries me a bit. I'd rather be safe than sorry, but if people have used the Rotella without any incident during break in, then I might feel a bit better about it.

Also, if it's ok to just use the Rotella T, should I change the oil and filter after the 30 min break in period? Or can I run it for a few thousand miles then change it?

Anyone out there have any recommendations?

 

I do believe you are supposed to change it quite soon after the break in period, then 1000 miles after and 3000 after (or something like that.)
Replacing filter is mandatory also.

 

Thanks Rob. So you're saying I can just break in the engine with the Rotella T then? Seems to be the consensus on what I've read.

 

I used straight Rotella for break in, no additives, been running fine for three years.
The engine was all lubed from the builder with some kind of assembly/break in grease as usual.
My engine place told me to change the oil and filter after the initial start and break in then after a thousand miles also.

 

havent been around rebuilt engines for too long but i am in agreeance with rob on this one and bluevista who posted in between me clicking reply and double checking what rob said lol

 

FWIW some cam companies are now saying just use a 30w non detergent oil along with a bottle of E.O.S. or some other supplement. The diesel oils have too much detergent. and don't have the amount of zinc and phosphorous they used to have.
I would have to agree cuz that's the way we did it years ago with no issues.

 

Some have too much and some have less.

Very true, when compared to diesel oils from several years ago. However, even the newer formulations have a lot more than the regular ol' modernized 10w-40.

There is link on this site somewhere about what diesel oils have what ingredients - good informative reading... If someone finds it, i will sticky it.

 

So am I back to stage 1 here? Is regular old oil with ZDDP additive better than the Rotella T, then? I think I'm already overthinking this, but I want to make a choice and stick with it.

 

X2
I use SAE30 non detergent, or the green Brad Penn break in oil. Comp cams break in lube works great as an additive. It comes in a black bottle that is shaped like a fuel injector cleaner bottle.

SAE 30 non detergent, can be had at farm supply stores, or air compressor supply stores.

 

If your engine has conventional lifters, I agree w/ break in oil (expensive) or just a good quality conventional oil, use a break in additive w/ the conventional oil, see what Penn(etc) suggests w/ special stuff. It will only be in there a short time for timing/carb adjustment & break in (follow typical cam break in procedures) & dumped after break in. I usually fill cooling system w/ just water so it cools a little better & if you have a leak it is a lot less unpleasant to clean up. Check for leaks during break in, watch oil pressure & water temp. If build clearances are good, you should not have issues w/ either.

Once adjustments, inspection, cam break in, oil change are done you just need to know driveline is ready to go & brakes ready to stop. I like to take out & do some moderate to moderately aggressive accelerations in a low gear & then decelerate against the engine to impart some thrust on the rings. Don't baby it, you can get pretty aggressive as long as all is well & build is good. If it is right, stompin' it won't hurt it, if something isn't right, then it is a crapshoot & probably won't change the outcome, just hasten it's arrival.

If roller cam, skip the cam break in, adjust, inspect & drive it! You can probably leave the oil in for a while, 250-1000 miles, whatever you're comfortable with. Either way when you drain the oil, not a bad idea to run the oil (as it drains) through a paint strainer, panty hose, etc & check for any overabundance of glitter/ metal slivers, parts, etc. Good idea to cut open the oil filter too & see what is in it. I like to use Filtermag oil filter magnets on my cars as they help catch & hold any ferrous flotsam.

If the parts & assembly are good, accessories & vital organs adjusted & operating properly you should have a relatively uneventful start up & you can get right to driving - remember, don't baby it! Watch some dyno runs on engines that have just about enough time to warm up & take a few up & down acceleration loops & then it is hammer down full throttle under load. Some racers consider the bleach box the place to seat your rings and run the engine in before a quarter mile pass.

The opinions expressed are not necessarily...............................

Good Luck!