Howdy all,

Got a 68 455 F Block with small valve C heads and low compression pistons. It leaks oil, eats oil, and blows blue smoke on start up and mid drive acceleration. I believe it’s never been apart besides me changing the timing chain a various external parts. I was going to take it out and do a rebuild…
However, I have an old timer offering a “factory rebuilt” 455 Fa block with B heads he planned to put in his motorhome several years ago. Never been installed. Never had fluids. No miles. The block id pad has no number stamped. He wants $8-900 for the engine. I am going over Wednesday with my endoscope to check out as much as I can before possibly buying the engine.

So, do I rebuild what I have, or buy this engine? Obviously there are condition variables, but just suggesting this engine is zero miles.

Also, any suggestions on non-obvious things to look for as red flags when inspecting this “factory rebuilt” engine?

Could use some advice.

 

Can you fire the $8-900 "new" engine? If it runs it's worth it.

 

I’ll be able to try and spin it by hand, but it’s not attached to anything right now. The engine looks good in the pics, but who knows?

Really the thing that has me wrapped around the axle is that the engine in the car now fires right up and runs pretty damn good. It’s not original to the car, but it is year correct. If I do keep and rebuild, I am looking at a lengthy down time with a my build estimate around 5-6k.

The other question that has me scratching my head is the fact the for sale block has no id. So, either it was never assigned to a car, or maybe it was rebuilt and the pad was ground clean? I don’t know if that’s typical for a re-manufactured engine?

I can’t find anywhere online to buy a long block with B heads. Was that a typical thing at some point years ago? Buying a rebuilt long block 455 with B heads?

 

 

Take your bore scope, pull a valve cover and see if he has any receipts. That seems to be a good price if it is what he says.

 

Appreciate the advice. It’s certainly possible he had B heads on hand and put them on along with the other stuff he put on the front. That seems kinda likely based on the a/c, power steering, and alt brackets he slapped on there. Looks like he also put on a water pump as well. He’s an 81yr old fella. Hopefully I’ll get some more info out of him in person. He has no receipts. I mean it $900. But it’s also a complete unknown. I’ve been back and forth in my brain. If it spins freely, and the cylinders look good, I’ll probably just take it home. However, $900 gets me close to a new rotating assembly for my current engine.

 

Don't get caught up in fancy run stands and stuff. All you need are the peripherals (starter, distributor, battery, carb, and a fuel source). You can make it run on the ground.
It makes the difference between a $3-400 engine and an $8-900 one.

 

The factory didn't "rebuild" motors, so if it is rebuilt it was done by a third party like Jasper. Personally I'll always trust my own work over someone else's undocumented effort.

 

Is that Alt. included with the deal ? Maybe there for eye candy. Is this an industrial/ marine engine? Perhaps rebuild this one to your standards and keep driving the other. Gotta love the 68 orange car. Greg

 

A blank pad could be a CE engine that didn't get a stamped CE or someone ground it off purposely. I think even an industrial engine will have numbers for traceability.
Later style intake. But complete pan to intake.
If its clean under the covers, scopes OK, and turns over, talk him down a bit and go for it. If it has oil in the pan drain it to see what comes out. Water run....
If you do turn it over just do it once as it's prob very dry.
This engine will need a good manual pre-prime before firing...spin while you prime.
Its a crap shoot not knowing who and how the woork was performed.
At a minimum, I would pull the pan and plastigage the rods and mains before putting it in the car.

 

I appreciate that input, and completely agree. I plan to try and get him lower. I figure if the bores look hatched, the lifters look clean, and I can get him to 5-650…why not? Hahaha! Famous last words.

 

The current engine in my Olds I bought from a local high school 24 years ago. It was rebuilt with forged .030 oversized Speed Pro pistons, a generic aftermarket cam, stock oil pump, double roller timing set, and some other stuff. I paid 600 bucks for it and then disassembled it, paid my local machine shop to verify all the machine work and clearances, then paid to have it balanced and some other things done, and then I reassembled it myself.

Assuming you buy it, at the minimum I’d pull the oil pan and check the bearing clearances with some plastigauge, and give it a through inspection. Too many people think “rebuilt” is new rings and bearings. Ideally a complete disassembly, cleaning and inspection would be ideal. Then you would know exactly what’s in the engine, what the clearances are, that’s is clean and properly assembled.

 

Thanks Matt. I ended up buying the motor. The bores were cleanly cross hatched, pistons looked like they’ve never been fired, it had some oil in the pan when I pulled the drain, maybe assembly oil. The engine LOOKS like a never installed rebuild. Got more information from the old fella. It was ordered to go into a motor home, don’t know where it was rebuilt. From eyeballing and scoping:

L2323f Speed pros .30 over
unknown crank or rods
unknown cam, assuming an RV
B heads
Olds cast 4bbl intake
Fa block.
Alternator
Power steering
A/C compressor
Oil cooling setup, minus the cooling attachment
flywheel in great shape

Going to do exactly what you suggested.

I haven’t read many good reviews of those dished sealed power pistons, but not sure I am going to change them out unless I find more “horrible” reviews. I plan to grab an Edelbrock intake and heads. Probably a new cam, depending on what’s in there. Still, pretty excited about the first look. Fingers crossed I find good installation as I get more into the engine.

I have seen some possible issues with headers interfering with the oil filter/cooler mount. Have to read more.

Anyone know if those Sealed power dished pistons are the same compression as the stock olds low compression pistons with small valve C heads?

 

The pistons are fine. It's not having enough piston to bore clearance that gives people overheating issues.
You can deck the heads to adjust the compression. Take the same amount off the intake face.

 

B Heads looks like hardened seats, need to measure valves tomorrow. Heads are in great shape. Looks like new springs, but used rockers. Are these B heads worth trying to sell? They look to be in great shape.

Pistons and bores look to be in fantastic shape. New pushrods and new hydraulic lifters. Friend has my harmonic puller, hopefully check what can is stabbed in this thing. Everything had assembly lube still. Need to flip the engine and get the pan off tomorrow. I have an edelbrock 2151 intake headed my way. Probably grabbing some aluminum heads this week.