EightballZ 455cui Rebuild

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Old April 6th, 2014, 02:31 PM
  #121  
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Very nice.

And, yes, I have taken the Fram filters apart myself. Look around on line and you will find photos of the insides of different filters. I am not very susceptible to internet hype, but when I took a Fram filter apart and saw the very large difference in internal construction myself, I decided I wouldn't buy any more of them.

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Old April 7th, 2014, 12:39 AM
  #122  
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here it is
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Old April 7th, 2014, 03:41 AM
  #123  
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Yes, when you compare them, the Fram looks like it was assembled by a small child.

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Old April 7th, 2014, 06:45 PM
  #124  
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I agree with MDmechanic, I use only Wix or Wix gold or K&N oil filters Fram is just purejunk also the Mobil 1 filters are JUNK! In our Jeep club we had many leak out all of the oil including mine over the years I have cut many filters in half and been shocked to see what pieces of crap they were and I blew many out in my Olds race car. Good luck with your motor and keep up the good work!
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Old April 8th, 2014, 10:59 AM
  #125  
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arrived today...some sweet edelbrock heads with bigger valves from the one and only mr. cutlassEFI
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Old April 8th, 2014, 07:28 PM
  #126  
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Oooooooooh... Very nice.

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Old April 9th, 2014, 04:28 PM
  #127  
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NICE! I am coming to Germany in a few months and let me know where your are at I would like to visit you while I am there, I know those heads will boost your power and performance greatly! CutlassEFI will get you running good!!
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Old April 12th, 2014, 03:05 AM
  #128  
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testfit with the new heads...cant wait for the final assembly.

here are the specs for cutlassEFI's custom cam:

234/242@.050, on a 110 with lift in the .580 range

not sure about painting the heads
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Old April 12th, 2014, 03:57 AM
  #129  
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I think it looks bad *** the way it is. Jmo.
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Old April 12th, 2014, 04:28 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by EightballZ
not sure about painting the heads
Nein!

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Old April 12th, 2014, 04:33 AM
  #131  
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I'd paint them to make it look more subtle.

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Old April 12th, 2014, 06:57 AM
  #132  
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If you collecting votes I vote to paint them. Dave
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Old April 12th, 2014, 07:35 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by EightballZ
not sure about painting the heads
Wow that is a major delema! On the one hand, you paid the big bucks for the Eddies and they look so good in their aluminumness show them off. On the other hand, the Olds blue is in my opinion the best engine color out there and the engine looks awesome all painted. To be honest I don't know what I would do! Other things to consider is, are you going with chrome or stock blue valve covers? Are you using an aluminum intake, and are you painting it or leaving it natural?
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Old April 12th, 2014, 07:43 AM
  #134  
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My vote is to paint them. After awhile the aluminum tends to corrode and look bad. Gets that white chalky appearance to it. You won't have to worry about that if painted.
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Old April 12th, 2014, 07:44 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by dfire25
... are you going with chrome or stock blue valve covers? Are you using an aluminum intake, and are you painting it or leaving it natural?
This is just my own personal style, but I would paint the whole thing just like the factory did, and make bystanders look twice when they pass by.

Obviously, the engine would look great with bare aluminum, too.

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Old April 12th, 2014, 11:10 AM
  #136  
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yeah i'm with eric...gonna paint them next week...i'm going with stock blue valve covers and intake

i also need to grind the accesory brackets a bit to make them fit
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Old April 12th, 2014, 06:50 PM
  #137  
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Its going to look awesome and run great! The nice thing is it will look stock but will have alot more performance! The average person today wont have a clue about the heads and whats in them. They will look and say nice clean engine!
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 05:32 AM
  #138  
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still waiting for the camshaft and lifters...so..enough time to do the details
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 06:20 AM
  #139  
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Looks great!

- Eric
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 09:49 AM
  #140  
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Cam and lifters are on their way. Thank you and everyone else for their patience that ordered roller cams from me recently. Both Comp and Lunati were out of cores for almost two months.
New cam specs are 232/236@.050 on a 114. You requested good torque while maintaining real good drivability so I shortened the stagger but spread it a bit. Should give you what you're looking for. Thank you again.
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Old April 24th, 2014, 02:49 AM
  #141  
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haha look at this...they just managed to update their installation sheet!!
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Old April 24th, 2014, 05:39 AM
  #142  
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I forget: Did you tell them that they had incorrect information there?

It's nice to see mistakes corrected on the internet.

- Eric
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Old April 24th, 2014, 06:10 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
I forget: Did you tell them that they had incorrect information there?

It's nice to see mistakes corrected on the internet.

- Eric
yeah... i told them its incorrect to make sure no one else relies on their "information"

looks like i'm the first one telling them its wrong
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Old April 24th, 2014, 06:11 AM
  #144  
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Someone in the future will thank you.

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Old April 24th, 2014, 10:03 AM
  #145  
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Its amazing how much disimformation on Oldsmobile engines is out there and alot on 442.com! Thanks for making it right!
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Old April 24th, 2014, 10:41 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by 442rocketdave
Its amazing how much disimformation on Oldsmobile engines is out there and alot on 442.com! Thanks for making it right!
Disimformation, really? Geez!
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Old April 24th, 2014, 11:21 AM
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OOps Typo!
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Old April 26th, 2014, 05:22 AM
  #148  
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Hi Eightballz,

i am in Germany too (Muenster/Westfalen) and i also have a 70 Toronado GT. Great to see another one here in Germany. I hope your engine turns out the way you want it to be! I have a more general question:

I understand the urge to get more power out of an engine. I do that with my muscle cars all the time…and i really have to fight with myself NOT to do it with the original 71 W30 442 i recently bought…

BUT: The Toronado is a heavy GT-car…more of a cruiser than a bruiser…plus it has frontwheeldrive…and you will not be able to fit wider tires unless you have a set of wheels specially made…the brakes are also not really up to any real sporty driving…

Aren´t you afraid that you will get the worst of two worlds?

I mean if you really get on it you will have severe torque steer problems. The idle and lowend boost this heavy car really needs will be degraded by that aggressive cam…even though the wide 114 LSA will tame that a bit…you will also need a bigger an louder exhaust…you will also need to change the shift points on the automatic tranny to take advantage of the extra power the engine will really only make at higher rpms.


i am just asking myself how this fits with the smooth character of the car? I am afraid that you will get a car that has a rumbly and noisy idle, will burn the smallish stock size tires at wot with crazy torque steer an will have the stock brakes smoking and cooking after some harder braking?

I don´t want to be a spoiler but have you thought about that?

Regards
Thomas

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Old April 26th, 2014, 12:40 PM
  #149  
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engine looks sexy as hell, nice work!
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Old May 1st, 2014, 08:16 AM
  #150  
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Hello EightballZ, I've been reading this thread with great interest, because I've been through the exact scenario with my '70 GT, In fact, it looks just like your car (is yours Bamboo?), anyhow, the video of your car running sounded exacly like my car, and I had all the frustration to go with it, spending years trying to figure out the problem. I eventually pulled my engine and redid the heads, and like yours, the timing chain was really sloppy (nylon coated gear disintegrated), that was the problem! After resealing and installing the motor, the car has huge power and really flies! Can't wait to hear how yours turns out...this is like reading a good book, keep up the good work!
Tom
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Old May 1st, 2014, 08:35 AM
  #151  
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intake

BTW, what will you be using for an intake manifold? I found this aluminum unit which is an exact copy of the lowered Toro unit, but without the exhaust passages, and bungs for port fuel injection. Works well and looks cool, designed for the Toro powered GMC motorhomes because their intakes would routinely develope crack due to the heat. I'm giving some thought to fuel injection on my car and this should work well...hopefully someday.
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Old May 1st, 2014, 08:36 AM
  #152  
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hey tom...thanks for sharing...mine is (i guess) platinum silver

you have any more pics of your GT?

yesterday i received the lifters...cam should show up during the next days.

oh yeah...time for more MAW's....pulled the wheel wells today for cleaning them and to have better access to the frame etc. for even more wire brushing

maybe i pull the fenders tomorrow

now its time for a great german beer i recently discovered....cheers!!
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Old May 1st, 2014, 11:23 AM
  #153  
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pics

Love German Beer! Here's some more pics of my beast;[IMG]DSCF0447_zpscd1f89a9.jpg[/IMG]
DSCF0447_zpscd1f89a9.jpg
DSCF0446_zpsb9f52fd5.jpg
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http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...ps652b6b56.jpg
http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...ps92d791af.jpg
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Old May 1st, 2014, 02:41 PM
  #154  
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Nice, is that steering wheel from a 71? I have never seen a console shifter in a Toro before…nice idea!
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Old May 1st, 2014, 04:09 PM
  #155  
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Good catch, the original steering wheel was a rimblow which started to delaminate and I couldn't find anybody who would repair it (without restoring the entire wheel). The bucket seat interior was a no cost option I think, and it really helps give the car the muscle car feel.
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Old May 4th, 2014, 12:44 PM
  #156  
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working off some MAW's while the engine is out
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Old May 4th, 2014, 08:14 PM
  #157  
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Looking good eightballz it will look like new and run like new when your finished hope you get it running by the end of this month!
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Old May 18th, 2014, 01:03 PM
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hey guys..

installed the cam and he lifters yesterday, degreed the cam and tried to determining push rod length. i also needed to turn the link bar of the lifters to face the block cause i ran into clearance issues with the intake.

since its not that easy with determining push rod length hydraulic lifters, heres how i would like to do it:

- installing a weaker spring that came with the cam degree kit on #1 cylinder intake valve
- mark top of valve with a sharpie
- installing adjustable push rod and roller lifter
- setting adjustable push rod till roller tip looks to be in the center on top of the valve
- installing poly lock, tightening till zero lash @ push rod and roller tip still centered + additional 1/2 turn on poly lock (??)
- turn over engine 3-4 times
- check top of valve etc.
- repeat till push rod length is ok

did i miss something? especially when it comes to lifter preload?
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 12:47 AM
  #159  
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??
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Old May 22nd, 2014, 07:14 AM
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I wrote the entire procedure up the the GD site dropped it all when I tried to post, this happens all the time. It times you out befoire you finish and when you go to post it drops it all.
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