EightballZ 455cui Rebuild
#121
Very nice.
And, yes, I have taken the Fram filters apart myself. Look around on line and you will find photos of the insides of different filters. I am not very susceptible to internet hype, but when I took a Fram filter apart and saw the very large difference in internal construction myself, I decided I wouldn't buy any more of them.
- Eric
And, yes, I have taken the Fram filters apart myself. Look around on line and you will find photos of the insides of different filters. I am not very susceptible to internet hype, but when I took a Fram filter apart and saw the very large difference in internal construction myself, I decided I wouldn't buy any more of them.
- Eric
#124
I agree with MDmechanic, I use only Wix or Wix gold or K&N oil filters Fram is just purejunk also the Mobil 1 filters are JUNK! In our Jeep club we had many leak out all of the oil including mine over the years I have cut many filters in half and been shocked to see what pieces of crap they were and I blew many out in my Olds race car. Good luck with your motor and keep up the good work!
#127
NICE! I am coming to Germany in a few months and let me know where your are at I would like to visit you while I am there, I know those heads will boost your power and performance greatly! CutlassEFI will get you running good!!
#128
testfit with the new heads...cant wait for the final assembly.
here are the specs for cutlassEFI's custom cam:
234/242@.050, on a 110 with lift in the .580 range
not sure about painting the heads
here are the specs for cutlassEFI's custom cam:
234/242@.050, on a 110 with lift in the .580 range
not sure about painting the heads
Last edited by EightballZ; April 12th, 2014 at 11:21 AM.
#133
Wow that is a major delema! On the one hand, you paid the big bucks for the Eddies and they look so good in their aluminumness show them off. On the other hand, the Olds blue is in my opinion the best engine color out there and the engine looks awesome all painted. To be honest I don't know what I would do! Other things to consider is, are you going with chrome or stock blue valve covers? Are you using an aluminum intake, and are you painting it or leaving it natural?
#135
Obviously, the engine would look great with bare aluminum, too.
- Eric
#136
yeah i'm with eric...gonna paint them next week...i'm going with stock blue valve covers and intake
i also need to grind the accesory brackets a bit to make them fit
i also need to grind the accesory brackets a bit to make them fit
Last edited by EightballZ; April 12th, 2014 at 11:23 AM.
#137
Its going to look awesome and run great! The nice thing is it will look stock but will have alot more performance! The average person today wont have a clue about the heads and whats in them. They will look and say nice clean engine!
#140
Cam and lifters are on their way. Thank you and everyone else for their patience that ordered roller cams from me recently. Both Comp and Lunati were out of cores for almost two months.
New cam specs are 232/236@.050 on a 114. You requested good torque while maintaining real good drivability so I shortened the stagger but spread it a bit. Should give you what you're looking for. Thank you again.
New cam specs are 232/236@.050 on a 114. You requested good torque while maintaining real good drivability so I shortened the stagger but spread it a bit. Should give you what you're looking for. Thank you again.
#143
looks like i'm the first one telling them its wrong
#148
Hi Eightballz,
i am in Germany too (Muenster/Westfalen) and i also have a 70 Toronado GT. Great to see another one here in Germany. I hope your engine turns out the way you want it to be! I have a more general question:
I understand the urge to get more power out of an engine. I do that with my muscle cars all the time…and i really have to fight with myself NOT to do it with the original 71 W30 442 i recently bought…
BUT: The Toronado is a heavy GT-car…more of a cruiser than a bruiser…plus it has frontwheeldrive…and you will not be able to fit wider tires unless you have a set of wheels specially made…the brakes are also not really up to any real sporty driving…
Aren´t you afraid that you will get the worst of two worlds?
I mean if you really get on it you will have severe torque steer problems. The idle and lowend boost this heavy car really needs will be degraded by that aggressive cam…even though the wide 114 LSA will tame that a bit…you will also need a bigger an louder exhaust…you will also need to change the shift points on the automatic tranny to take advantage of the extra power the engine will really only make at higher rpms.
i am just asking myself how this fits with the smooth character of the car? I am afraid that you will get a car that has a rumbly and noisy idle, will burn the smallish stock size tires at wot with crazy torque steer an will have the stock brakes smoking and cooking after some harder braking?
I don´t want to be a spoiler but have you thought about that?
Regards
Thomas
i am in Germany too (Muenster/Westfalen) and i also have a 70 Toronado GT. Great to see another one here in Germany. I hope your engine turns out the way you want it to be! I have a more general question:
I understand the urge to get more power out of an engine. I do that with my muscle cars all the time…and i really have to fight with myself NOT to do it with the original 71 W30 442 i recently bought…
BUT: The Toronado is a heavy GT-car…more of a cruiser than a bruiser…plus it has frontwheeldrive…and you will not be able to fit wider tires unless you have a set of wheels specially made…the brakes are also not really up to any real sporty driving…
Aren´t you afraid that you will get the worst of two worlds?
I mean if you really get on it you will have severe torque steer problems. The idle and lowend boost this heavy car really needs will be degraded by that aggressive cam…even though the wide 114 LSA will tame that a bit…you will also need a bigger an louder exhaust…you will also need to change the shift points on the automatic tranny to take advantage of the extra power the engine will really only make at higher rpms.
i am just asking myself how this fits with the smooth character of the car? I am afraid that you will get a car that has a rumbly and noisy idle, will burn the smallish stock size tires at wot with crazy torque steer an will have the stock brakes smoking and cooking after some harder braking?
I don´t want to be a spoiler but have you thought about that?
Regards
Thomas
Last edited by rollerball; April 26th, 2014 at 05:25 AM.
#150
Hello EightballZ, I've been reading this thread with great interest, because I've been through the exact scenario with my '70 GT, In fact, it looks just like your car (is yours Bamboo?), anyhow, the video of your car running sounded exacly like my car, and I had all the frustration to go with it, spending years trying to figure out the problem. I eventually pulled my engine and redid the heads, and like yours, the timing chain was really sloppy (nylon coated gear disintegrated), that was the problem! After resealing and installing the motor, the car has huge power and really flies! Can't wait to hear how yours turns out...this is like reading a good book, keep up the good work!
Tom
Tom
#151
intake
BTW, what will you be using for an intake manifold? I found this aluminum unit which is an exact copy of the lowered Toro unit, but without the exhaust passages, and bungs for port fuel injection. Works well and looks cool, designed for the Toro powered GMC motorhomes because their intakes would routinely develope crack due to the heat. I'm giving some thought to fuel injection on my car and this should work well...hopefully someday.
#152
hey tom...thanks for sharing...mine is (i guess) platinum silver
you have any more pics of your GT?
yesterday i received the lifters...cam should show up during the next days.
oh yeah...time for more MAW's....pulled the wheel wells today for cleaning them and to have better access to the frame etc. for even more wire brushing
maybe i pull the fenders tomorrow
now its time for a great german beer i recently discovered....cheers!!
you have any more pics of your GT?
yesterday i received the lifters...cam should show up during the next days.
oh yeah...time for more MAW's....pulled the wheel wells today for cleaning them and to have better access to the frame etc. for even more wire brushing
maybe i pull the fenders tomorrow
now its time for a great german beer i recently discovered....cheers!!
#153
pics
Love German Beer! Here's some more pics of my beast;[IMG]DSCF0447_zpscd1f89a9.jpg[/IMG]
DSCF0447_zpscd1f89a9.jpg
DSCF0446_zpsb9f52fd5.jpg
DSCF0445_zps24483281.jpg
DSCF0443_zps6f04f496.jpg
DSCF0442_zps17c927f5.jpg
http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...ps652b6b56.jpg
http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...ps92d791af.jpg
DSCF0447_zpscd1f89a9.jpg
DSCF0446_zpsb9f52fd5.jpg
DSCF0445_zps24483281.jpg
DSCF0443_zps6f04f496.jpg
DSCF0442_zps17c927f5.jpg
http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...ps652b6b56.jpg
http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/...ps92d791af.jpg
#155
Good catch, the original steering wheel was a rimblow which started to delaminate and I couldn't find anybody who would repair it (without restoring the entire wheel). The bucket seat interior was a no cost option I think, and it really helps give the car the muscle car feel.
#158
hey guys..
installed the cam and he lifters yesterday, degreed the cam and tried to determining push rod length. i also needed to turn the link bar of the lifters to face the block cause i ran into clearance issues with the intake.
since its not that easy with determining push rod length hydraulic lifters, heres how i would like to do it:
- installing a weaker spring that came with the cam degree kit on #1 cylinder intake valve
- mark top of valve with a sharpie
- installing adjustable push rod and roller lifter
- setting adjustable push rod till roller tip looks to be in the center on top of the valve
- installing poly lock, tightening till zero lash @ push rod and roller tip still centered + additional 1/2 turn on poly lock (??)
- turn over engine 3-4 times
- check top of valve etc.
- repeat till push rod length is ok
did i miss something? especially when it comes to lifter preload?
installed the cam and he lifters yesterday, degreed the cam and tried to determining push rod length. i also needed to turn the link bar of the lifters to face the block cause i ran into clearance issues with the intake.
since its not that easy with determining push rod length hydraulic lifters, heres how i would like to do it:
- installing a weaker spring that came with the cam degree kit on #1 cylinder intake valve
- mark top of valve with a sharpie
- installing adjustable push rod and roller lifter
- setting adjustable push rod till roller tip looks to be in the center on top of the valve
- installing poly lock, tightening till zero lash @ push rod and roller tip still centered + additional 1/2 turn on poly lock (??)
- turn over engine 3-4 times
- check top of valve etc.
- repeat till push rod length is ok
did i miss something? especially when it comes to lifter preload?
Last edited by EightballZ; May 18th, 2014 at 02:17 PM.
#160
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Bonaire, Dutch Caribbean, Ft. Lauderdale Fl.
Posts: 141
I wrote the entire procedure up the the GD site dropped it all when I tried to post, this happens all the time. It times you out befoire you finish and when you go to post it drops it all.