distributor/heater vaccum lines 425 -65

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Old Dec 26, 2015 | 11:22 AM
  #1  
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From: Arvika,Sweden
distributor/heater vaccum lines 425 -65

Hi just wonder where the vaccum line to the distributor should be connected
on the engine.On my car the vaccum hose is connected at the arrow on the picture(where the gray rubber hat sits)

The car have ac system.Would also be great if anbody knows how to connect
the vacuum hoses to the heater system.





Old Dec 26, 2015 | 11:59 AM
  #2  
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Here are some pages from the '65 Fullsize Assembly Manual. I hope the help.

Welcome to ClassicOlds.

- Eric
Attached Files
Old Dec 26, 2015 | 06:13 PM
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the circled gray hat area there appears to be manifold vacuum which I believe is correct for the '65 2-bbl application seen.

It will provide good performance and economy, when the timing is correctly set and the proper octane fuel is used. Easy starting too.
Old Dec 27, 2015 | 02:06 AM
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Thanks for your answers,should check that pdf file MDchanic
I have replaced the timing chain and gears but could not set the timing after that either.
When i turn the distributor so that the marks should match for ignition timing the engine will die.
Have checked that when flywheel is on 0 mark number 1 piston is in top position.

/Glenn.
Old Dec 27, 2015 | 10:58 AM
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When i turn the distributor so that the marks should match for ignition timing the engine will die.

Specific numbers?
You unplugged vacuum to distributor and plugged the vacuum leak while setting timing, right?
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Octania
When i turn the distributor so that the marks should match for ignition timing the engine will die.

Specific numbers?
You unplugged vacuum to distributor and plugged the vacuum leak while setting timing, right?
Yes,but we should try to set the timing again and check the rubber plug for any cracks.

Tried to set timing before the timing chain/gears was replaced and with the rubber hat mounted on the engine vaccum line but the flywheel mark was long way from mark on engine when it,s began to die

Lifted off the distributor cap and rotate the engine backwards until the rotor moved and then marked up on the ac compressor,then rotate engine in right direction untill rotor moved again and measured this distance to 15 mm.
(sorry if any words are wrong,can be a little difficult to find the right words sometimes )

Old Dec 28, 2015 | 09:51 AM
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That looks like a normal mount of slop for a used timing set.

If your engine died when the timing marks got near correct, then one has to suspect that the balancer has slipped and the mark is NOT for TDC any more.... or you were using the wrong plug wire for #1 to trigger the strobe to set the timing... of the carb needs adjustments to keep it running at low vacuum with late timing.

One assumes that it ran OK with the timing mark very much advanced- to the passenger side of the timing tab on the block. Generally, in my experience, retarding the timing leads to low vacuum, which provides overheating and poor/ no idle. Advancing the timing leads to better running until and unless you advance too much and get detonation issues at higher loads/ speeds.

I found on the 403 that carb [ported] vacuum to the dist'r was a recipe for failure... low vacuum, poor idle, hard to start, overheats.....

MUCH of that was cured by simply changing to manifold vacuum. While starting, no vacuum, therefore timing is more retarded and it starts easy. As soon as it starts, the vacuum advances the timing, so vacuum signal rises high, idle behaves like it should, no heat issues, life is good.

Other than the long careful process of 100% verifying that your tdc mark is exactly TDC, plus or minus one mark width, you might consider tuning "by ear" - advance as much as needed to make it idle ok, back off a little if detonation under load is detected.
Old Dec 29, 2015 | 01:31 AM
  #8  
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Thanks for answer.I used a thin metal rod against top of piston thru the no1 cyl sparkplug hole to check the TDC,and i suppose no1 cyl is front/drivers side.

We have now set the timing by ear but the engine don,t run as smooth/even that i should want.There are something wrong

Can also see that some air coming from the valvecover vent to aircleaner
and after oil change (10w-30 same as i use in my other V8 engines) some blue exhaust smoke.

Should continue with this later when it,s warmer outside.

/Glenn.
Old Dec 29, 2015 | 09:05 AM
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Hi Glenn.

You've got to use a more accurate way of determining TDC. With the method you are using, you can easily 15 or even 20 degrees off, as the piston does not move perceptibly for a surprisingly long part of the time at the top of its stroke.

You should use a TDC checker, which is a sort of a spark plug base with a bolt through the middle (you can make one if you don't have one), or a dial indicator to determine the exact location of TDC, and confirm whether it corresponds with the balancer marking line.

And, yes, the Left-side, frontmost cylinder is #1.

As far as the smoke, I am not certain whether all of these engines were equipped with PCV valves, but you could retrofit one easily, and if there is one already, you should check it to be sure that it is operating correctly, or just replace it, as they are cheap and easy to get.

It is also a good idea to use a timing light to check to be sure that your vacuum and centrifugal advance units are functioning smoothly and properly.

Good luck!

- Eric
Old Dec 29, 2015 | 09:51 AM
  #10  
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Watching the engine's vacuum signal while it runs is a good way to assess the health and set the timing too. You can connect where that gray cap is.
Old Dec 30, 2015 | 11:13 PM
  #11  
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Thanks for your answers I really like to drive the Olds,very comfortable car.

I had now connected the vaccum hoses to the heater so i got warm air into the car.
The vaccum valve on the engine didn,t open so i connected the water hose to the engine
and should replace the valve later.I could feel a suction in the vaccum hose to the valve.

Last edited by GCH; Jan 1, 2016 at 08:09 AM.
Old Feb 15, 2016 | 02:35 AM
  #12  
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Hi,have now replaced some vacumhoses and sparkplugs/wires.
The timing gears and chain are replaced earlier.
Checked the timing yesterday and plugged the vacum connection
on engine during timing set and set the timing to 10 digrees and the
engine starts upp much better than earlier.

Should take the car for a testride when the weather is better and
try to adjust the idle mixture screws on the carburator.

The engines in my GMC and Chevy runs very smooth at idle,should try
to get the Olds engine to run like those.
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