Can I use a dremel to take care of the rough edges and smoothing out passages on the block?

If so, what type of bit/attachments should I use?

My air compressor will not support a die grinder so I am hoping the dremel will do the trick.

Thanks

d1

 

You can, but you will go through a lot of stones, and it will take a long time. Make sure to use eye protection, since grinding can be hazardous to your body. A file might be faster if you can get access with it. Either way, it is still going to be a tedious job.

 

A Dremmel tool is too small for this task. A pneumatic die grinder is the preferred tool, but I sense that you lack an air compressor. A second choice is an electric drill with abrasive rolls and flap wheels. Consider buying a block deburring kit like the ones sold by SA Abrasives.

 

Got a solution! Rotozip, yeah... it rocks. I bought $50 worth of double carbide bits and they fit perfectly in the Rotozip. I think I have had this tool for over 10 years and mainly used it for drywall. The model I have is heavy duty and even has a feature that illuminates the area you are working on. Its motor never got hot during operation.

I knocked out the bottom of the valley in less than two minutes. It was making short work out of the the ragged edges.

Now I started on the (4) oil return holes on the top of each corner of the block. I believe that is what they are, if not, please point me in the right direction.

Now that I have the means of deburring and making it easier for oil to travel to the oil pan. What other areas do I need to take care of? How about the main cap the oil pump rests on? Do I bother with the cylinder head oil return holes? Is there any part that I need to be careful with to not take out too much material?

d1

 

FWIW, I deburred the areas you mentioned on my block, plus the return hole at the front of the block (behind the timing gear). I also smoothed out the oil passage in the rear main cap where the oil pump attaches, there's a picture of that in my engine rebuld thread:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/153909-post33.html

I believe the cylinder head return holes you mentioned are another possibility.

I referenced two engine rebuilding books while I was working on mine and they both suggested deburring all these locations. One book was Mondello's Technical Reference Manual, the other was from the Wild About Cars website.

 

Thanks for the link and info. The work on the valve pockets looks good. Where did you pick up that oil pan? I have had mixed luck with aftermarket pans (twisted not level around pan rail flange).

Do you have this motor assembled and running yet?

d1

 

That's the original pan, just cleaned up and painted. The engine is assembled and mounted to the frame, but it hasn't been run yet. I had intended to get it tuned & dynoed before installing it, but that didn't work out. Now it'll have to wait until I get the car back from the body shop.