Crankshaft Seal (?)

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Old Jun 4, 2021 | 08:47 AM
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Crankshaft Seal (?)

Hello everyone,

I got a minor oil leak and as I've been told it must be the crankshaft seal. How do I get to that seal? What do I have to dismont?
Are there tightening torques I have to mind? Do I need new crank bolts?

It's a 1952 Super 88 with the original 303 (Engine is still in the car and I'd like to keep it like that)

thanks in advance.

Best regards from Germany
Old Jun 4, 2021 | 08:50 AM
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Front or rear of crankshaft? Front is straightforward replacement of seal, rear will require major work. Sometimes the rear original rope seal will leak less with use and operation. Good luck ~
Old Jun 4, 2021 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by coldwar
Front or rear of crankshaft? Front is straightforward replacement of seal, rear will require major work. Sometimes the rear original rope seal will leak less with use and operation. Good luck ~

Sorry. It's the rear.
Old Jun 4, 2021 | 09:03 AM
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Advice from another 52 owner - Let it go if it is minor. I put cardboard from large boxes under one of my cars when it will sit in garage. Even with proper tamped installation of a quality graphite impregnated rope seal can still seep oil if the engine is not operated regularly. They do settle down with use and heat-cold cycles. If you want it done best practice is to remove engine and replace the seal out of car.

You can consider the modern replacement neoprene lip seals but it is still not 100% on leak free operation. Normal 1952 303 running oil pressure even with thick oil at cold startup should not exceed perhaps 60PSI, maybe 15-20 idling hot in gear. Big oil pressure is not needed and will make running leaks worse.

Good luck
Old Jun 4, 2021 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by coldwar
Advice from another 52 owner - Let it go if it is minor. I put cardboard from large boxes under one of my cars when it will sit in garage. Even with proper tamped installation of a quality graphite impregnated rope seal can still seep oil if the engine is not operated regularly. They do settle down with use and heat-cold cycles. If you want it done best practice is to remove engine and replace the seal out of car.

You can consider the modern replacement neoprene lip seals but it is still not 100% on leak free operation. Normal 1952 303 running oil pressure even with thick oil at cold startup should not exceed perhaps 60PSI, maybe 15-20 idling hot in gear. Big oil pressure is not needed and will make running leaks worse.

Good luck
It's leaking a LOT, since almost 7 years now and I want it to stop :P
I leave a rainbow trace when it's raining...
Old Jun 4, 2021 | 10:37 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by R_CK_R
I got a minor oil leak and as I've been told it must be the crankshaft seal.....
Originally Posted by R_CK_R
It's leaking a LOT, since almost 7 years now and I want it to stop....
OK - Lot of miles? Very worn main bearings contribute to rear main leaks, and to front seal leaks in the transmission. If there is a bottled 'pour it in' product for running engine oil leaks I'm not aware of any that work. Best of luck ~
Old Jun 4, 2021 | 11:23 AM
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This is not an easy fix with the engine in the car. You need to drop the oil pan, then loosen all the main bearing caps, then remove the rear cap. Then you need to use a "sneaky pete" tool to pull the new rope seal section into position above the crank. Replace the other half in the rear main cap, then put it all back together. It's almost easier to just pull the engine






Old Jun 5, 2021 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
This is not an easy fix with the engine in the car. You need to drop the oil pan, then loosen all the main bearing caps, then remove the rear cap. Then you need to use a "sneaky pete" tool to pull the new rope seal section into position above the crank. Replace the other half in the rear main cap, then put it all back together. It's almost easier to just pull the engine






oh no. This looks like a lot of “fun” 😏

I’ve already dropped the oil pan yet but I can’t get the main bearing cap screws open.
is there any trick or are they left threaded?

do I have to use heavy tools? I don’t want to break anything 😳



Old Jun 5, 2021 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by R_CK_R
do I have to use heavy tools? I don’t want to break anything 😳
There's no trick. You might want to consider spending more time at the gym.

Seriously, they are torqued to 100 ft-lb on mains #1 - #4 and 140 ft-lbs on main #5. An impact wrench is the way to go.
Old Jun 5, 2021 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
There's no trick. You might want to consider spending more time at the gym.
haha maybe I should do that 😂🙈

or get some better tools.
thanks
Old Jun 6, 2021 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by R_CK_R
is there any trick or are they left threaded?
No they are not left hand thread.
Old Jun 12, 2021 | 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
This is not an easy fix with the engine in the car. You need to drop the oil pan, then loosen all the main bearing caps, then remove the rear cap. Then you need to use a "sneaky pete" tool to pull the new rope seal section into position above the crank. Replace the other half in the rear main cap, then put it all back together. It's almost easier to just pull the engine






sorry for all my stupid questions but do I have to remove the transmission?
where can I get this “sneaky pete” tool?

I now could remove the old seal
Old Jun 12, 2021 | 05:44 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by R_CK_R
where can I get this “sneaky pete” tool?
https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=sneaky+pete+tool
Old Jun 19, 2021 | 05:53 AM
  #14  
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Are there different sizes of seals for the 303? We think it looks a bit big respectively it gets stuck when we try to pull it with the sneaky pete.

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