crank seal
#1
crank seal
Should the grooving shown on the crank be removed prior to fitment of a ford 460 rubber seal ?? Thought I read it somewhere ?
Thanks mike
PS That is not rust you see on the crank. It is a protective lanolin x rattle can. Works well too .
Thanks mike
PS That is not rust you see on the crank. It is a protective lanolin x rattle can. Works well too .
#2
Taken from Mondello - "Neoprene rear main seal. Rear of crankshaft must be polished for best results."
See greenslade's post regarding crankshaft sealing...the picture he provides will give you an idea.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-install.html
See greenslade's post regarding crankshaft sealing...the picture he provides will give you an idea.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-install.html
Last edited by ah64pilot; May 2nd, 2011 at 05:49 PM.
#3
Geckon, I would place a seal in the block with some machinist's dye or light paint marker on it and then drop the crank in place. The mark it leaves will show you what needs to be polished. I don't believe you are going to have to take the grooves off all the way. Just polish what is necessary to give the rear seal a smooth mating surface.
Also, on the final assembly use Permatex Aviation 3H gasket sealer in the groove that the seal goes into, both in the block and the cap. Then apply a little to the seal itself, on the inside groove and on the sides. Install the seal with the edge of the seal facing in toward the engine. Stagger the two halves of the seal before the main cap is bolted on, it will ensure the seam of the two halves is NOT at the seam of the cap and block.
Also, on the final assembly use Permatex Aviation 3H gasket sealer in the groove that the seal goes into, both in the block and the cap. Then apply a little to the seal itself, on the inside groove and on the sides. Install the seal with the edge of the seal facing in toward the engine. Stagger the two halves of the seal before the main cap is bolted on, it will ensure the seam of the two halves is NOT at the seam of the cap and block.
#4
Geckon, I would place a seal in the block with some machinist's dye or light paint marker on it and then drop the crank in place. The mark it leaves will show you what needs to be polished. I don't believe you are going to have to take the grooves off all the way. Just polish what is necessary to give the rear seal a smooth mating surface.
Also, on the final assembly use Permatex Aviation 3H gasket sealer in the groove that the seal goes into, both in the block and the cap. Then apply a little to the seal itself, on the inside groove and on the sides. Install the seal with the edge of the seal facing in toward the engine. Stagger the two halves of the seal before the main cap is bolted on, it will ensure the seam of the two halves is NOT at the seam of the cap and block.
Also, on the final assembly use Permatex Aviation 3H gasket sealer in the groove that the seal goes into, both in the block and the cap. Then apply a little to the seal itself, on the inside groove and on the sides. Install the seal with the edge of the seal facing in toward the engine. Stagger the two halves of the seal before the main cap is bolted on, it will ensure the seam of the two halves is NOT at the seam of the cap and block.
gotcha .Tx .I will take this to the engine builder.He believes posts from here (selectively!) but he sure doesn`t believe me unless I have some back up info. To be fair I don`t blame him . So the info I take him from this site is invaluable and he begrudgingly admits he believes this engine is very interesting and should be a very good street engine.I take in screeds of paper sometimes and go through the significance of each .Plus he has my csm with tagged pages for each series of processes he is about to start on .I bet I don`t get a xmas present but all I really want is a good engine
cheers
mike
#5
check this out,shows groves on crank.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnfnZ5gJ5GE
#6
check this out,shows groves on crank.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnfnZ5gJ5GE
tx the link
mike
#7
good video, only thing I would've done differently is offset the seal so that the seal halves and main cap mating surfaces are different. Otherwise good info.
As far as polishing the crank, you wouldn't be taking any material off of the crank, just use a good polishing wheel and get it nice and smooth where the seal is going to mate up.
As far as polishing the crank, you wouldn't be taking any material off of the crank, just use a good polishing wheel and get it nice and smooth where the seal is going to mate up.
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