Hey people,
i have some concerns about building an engine in the cold and have some questions.
1. It will be in a.garage that i can heat while working on the motor and should be able to get it up to around 60-70 degrees but what happens when im done for the day and the heat is off? Will it condensate and start to rust? If so what can i do to prevent issues? I will be using assemlbly lube etc. But what about the cylinders, crank, rods fresh from the machine shop before they are assembled. I plan on heating the garage for about 12 hours and checking all my clearances before assembly but what happens if i shut down the heat for the day. By the way the temps will be below freezing with no heat. Using propane heat and only have all the short block parts for now. Should have the heads complete within a month of building the bottom end. Any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.

 

Yes rust will likely be an issue. Oil parts so that they don't rust. You could bag some of to the parts with dollar store desiccant tubs/moisture absorbers in the bag.

 

thanks for the reply. Im ok with oil just not sure what is the best way to apply it and should it be on everything? Would that stop condensation?

 

Oil won't stop condensation just rust so it would have to be on every surface. The dessicant would wick away condensation and protect uncoated surfaces. Marine outboard fogging oil is tacky and would work well in long term storage.

 

Actually, the heat will cause condensation. If it's freezing, there is no liquid water to condense. Warm air holds moisture, which condenses on cold surfaces. Unless your heat source is electric, a major byproduct of combustion is water vapor.

 

Wipe the parts down with lacquer thinner or prepsol then apply a liberal coat of WD-40 over the entire part. Really you could probably just use the WD-40, but I like to get all contamination off first. Use the WD-40 on entire assemblies as well (assembled heads, short block, etc). If the parts are fresh from the machine shop, I like to clean out all of the oil passages too. I usually use brake clean, carb cleaner, or a paint gun cleaning brush soaked in lacquer thinner.

 

Those are probably the worse conditions possible to be putting an engine together in. Any way you can do it in a basement or somewhere else that is heated 24/7 ??

 

Interesting. I will be in the same boat. Spring thaw here is also a real moisture concern.

 

There are two main problems.

1. I dont think you can measure things properly in the cold and I dont think you can heat it enough by only having the heat on part time. You need to have it at close to 70 degrees for at least a few days. If you trust your machine shop to measure everything for you that would be one option.

2. The main problem is moisture from temperature changes. And if the heater you have is a portable type propane heater it will generate tons of moisture like the others have mentioned. Even if you never turn the heat on the temperature will probably change enough during the day with the sun hitting the roof. Once you get the engine installed and run it up to temperature a few times it doesnt seem to be as much of an issue but when everything is fresh I dont care how much oil you put on it more than likely it will start to rust.

 

Buy WD-40 in a gallon can and some general-purpose spray bottles and sauce it down.

That is what WD-40 was created to do....Water Displacement....40th formulation attempt during R&D was a success.

 

Exactly,
This is a Pontiac 400 that was sitting in my unheated garage in PA for the last 6 years or so. It belongs to a 67 HO 4-speed GTO. It came with the car when I bought it as a freshly assembled short block. I sprayed it down with WD-40 and and wrapped it back up in the plastic bag it arrived in from the machine shop. This is what it looked like when I pulled it out of the bag after sitting in the corner for 6 years.

 

Build a small tent frame,(PVC pipe) cover it with a canvas tarp, then put a 200 watt light bulb under it, and it will keep it in the 70 degrease range while you are not working on it..... Tedd

 

It's a good idea to reapply the WD40 every so often.

I have a 2015 Amerhauler, 16' cargo trailer which has aluminum trim, fenders, and those silver wagon wheels with the cheap chrome center caps. I sauce it at least 2x a year. The brake backing plates, springs, the whole tongue assembly, the safety chains et al...
The metal mentioned above still looks great. It's driven in the salt too. If I did nothing it would definitely show corrosion damage by now. That $20 gallon of WD40 has saved this trailer from salt doom.
Ill open the drawers of my many toolboxes and spray down the tools. Keeps any condensation rust at bay.