oldsguybry

Ok , any ideas what would cause the car to all of a sudden not accelerate properly ? What I mean is .... I just touch the gas and it coughs and sputters like there are cylinders not getting gas , and if I don't feather the gas it will just die . Once the motor is warmed up I can floor it and it accelerates great and burns rubber . It's fine in park or neutral for the most part , it just seems to do this under load . This is part of the reason I took the carb off , took it apart , and soaked it . I cleaned all the garbage of everywhere I could see , put it back together and now the problem seems worse . I did adjust one side of the carb air gas mixture screw to be consistent with the other side after I had it apart . Sometimes it doesn't do this as bad as other times .... I didn't seem to lose any power over this . I was screwing the gas air mixture screws in and out but it didn't seem to help any . It all of a sudden started doing this one day after had an argument with the apartment manager . Hmmmm ... I have a locking gas cap , so I'm not sure what he could of done . What about points or maybe he turned the dist ?

wls559

Check your fuel filter, fuel pump, check your gas cap: vented vs non vented, check your rubber lines at the tank and where they come out of the frame on the passenger side.

Fun71

That sounds like a choke adjustment issue to me.

yellowrocket

hi, I would look at the accelerator pump as well. The easiest way to check is to start the car and carefully push the pin that holds the accelerator pump lever in until the lever becomes free from the carb body( do not remove the pin from the carb) . Once the lever is free( not actually pushing the accelerator pump down )rev the engine and see if there is more of a flat spot or if it is the same when operating as normal. If the flat spot is worse then the pump is working ,no change would show the pump not working.

Bfg

Perhaps the apartment manager put a curse on your Olds! You might have to contact a Priest to perform a exsorism.

oldsguybry

It doesn't always do this though , the problem is worse since I've taken carb off and cleaned it / turned air gas screws .... the sputtering / bogging can be intermittent too . It seems to do this off and on ( mostly on ) no matter if the engine is warm or cold .

oldsguybry

LOL , I have a curse in store for his car ... I'm sure I won't do anything because it's not the right thing to do , and I don't have proof .

oldsguybry

How does this pump work ? Is there something hidden under the two springs and plunger ? I ask because the springs and plunger appears to be in great shape physically . Do the springs wear out , or is there an actual apparatus underneath these parts ?

oldsguybry

I'll have to Google how to adjust this .

oldsguybry

There's no gas leaking anywhere , so what would I be looking for ? Just curious .... the locking gas cap is aftermarket , and it fits loose .

oldsguybry

Ok , I found the problem , one of the plug wires on the dist cap fit loose . It must of been not getting a good connection , which makes all the sense in the world now .... Don't buy cheap plug wires , the metal plugs that fit in the dist cap bend real easy .

Now , what's the easiest way to get the air gas mixture screws set right now ... I have them all out of adjustment . I know someone gave me advice on this before , but I'll have a fun time trying to find that information now . Thanks in advance ...

TripDeuces

1) Accelerator pump bad? Is the pump cup swelled from alcohol in the fuel? If it's a stock cup that you didn't change out and just cleaned I'd look there IE E85
2) Clogged shooter holes or debris in the passages.
3) Vacuum leak, probably a big one. Is the brake booster hose disconnected?
4) Choke as mentioned. Is the choke set wrong or worn out and the choke flap on the air horn is closing or shut?

1) Sounds like #4 above. Choke misadjusted or damaged.

1) Were you doing this at high idle maybe while on the choke high idle step? Mixture screws only work at idle. Once the transfer slots are uncovered they do jack. If not on high idle on the choke why is the idle so high? If that's the case I'm back to the vacuum leak like #3 above

oldsguybry

Yeah I found and fixed the problem on why I started the thread , BUT there's still issues though .... I changed the idle as low as it would go and was adjusting the gas air screws to the highest RPM setting where the motor runs the smoothest . Now that the idle is in a different place because it was idling too high in the first place , the carb has a bog when you just start hitting the gas . It don't matter if the motor is cold or hot , it still bogs . Although the pump looked real good to me , I bet that is part of my bogging problem now . The carb always bogged , but would subside when engine was warm . Now it bogs all the time, and I'm sure I don't have the air gas screws perfect either . I'm sure it has to be rebuilt . Maybe timing is off too .

shiftbyear

If your throttle plate settings are close to those pictured (carb upside down), I would suspect the timing needs to be advanced or the distributor recurved. Is there gas dripping from the primary venture at idle? Could you post a picture of the carb on the motor? Maybe someone will notice something out of place. Good luck.

oldsguybry

Thanks, this will be a big help . I will post some pictures later .

oldsguybry

I suspect Mr. Trip Dueces is correct on the choke adjustment .... the engine runs absolutely fabulous now , except for the bog. It's only there after engine us warmed up .

RROLDSX

I think all bets are off on full throttle acceleration when the engine is cold unless you have a factory setup. Things like heat tubes to the exhaust manifold and vacuum actuator in the air cleaner we’re all mean’t to help the engine accelerate smoothly when cold. If you have all these parts on your car then keep playing with the “tune” which includes the choke. If you don’t have all the correct parts, you may have to live with a bit of a bog when the engine is cold. You may get lucky with some choke adjustment though. Good luck.