im having some issues with the car starting that im hoping is just the distrib. it seems that the rotor stutter spins through the first 4 in the firing order. then smoothly through the rest. and i am also not getting spark after the distrib. i know the timing is set. the firing order is right every spec is set as far as points and all that. but it just wont spin.. now im not entirely sure that the cam is not stripped out.. but the dizzy does lock in and will not spin freely and you can see the rotor smooth into place when i press it down..as far as a bent distributor shaft. that seems almost right.. im not sure the internal set up on these but im assuming that it could be possible. the whole thing was a kid was driving the car( before it was mine) and one day it just died on him while driving.. he did a small tune up (i.e. plugs wire cap rotor and stuff) and it wouldnt fire up.. just crank.. it is also possible that it jumped timing. i mean i set it to top dead.. pulled the plugs spun it by hand and got the number 1 cyclinder all the way up( as far as i could feel .. didnt truely get it there visually just the old screw driver down the cylinder trick) and im still just getting that click click click then free spin on the rotor. i marked the #1 spot on the cap and set the rotor to it aswell with the motor timing .. so everything should be ok.. any more info on the matter guys please share im new to v8's and i really want to drive this thing!


thanks in advanced
Jared

thanks again to all!
Jared

 

I'm not entirely clear on exactly what you meant in a few places there, but I get a gut impression that your timing may be off. Check your timing chain. Do you remember whether the timing seemed to be way off when you first checked it when you got the car?

- Eric

 

yea the timing seemed to be on. the markings line up and its at top dead center

 

What part of PA? I think I have an extra dist.

 

I agree - the distributor seems to be the problem.
Get a used one from someone here, or check for a rebuilt at a parts store.
When you pull the old one, make sure the gear is all in one piece - if not, get a looooong magnet!!!

 

I live in stroudsburg area which is a 4 hour drive from you haha

 

If your cam gear and distributor gear are chewed up, you're gonna need a lot more - all that ground-up cast iron circulated in the oil, and is now imbedded in the bearings!!
Will wipe-out crankshaft, camshaft, lifters, rocker arms, stands, pistons and walls!!
A complete overhaul is the only way to resolve that problem!!
[sorry to be the bearer of that bad news!!]

 

Have you pulled the dist. to see what the gears actually looks like???

 

yea the dizzy and the gears are not chewed up. i had it out. so i doubt the whole metal shavings situation but still ahve no clue i need a new dizzy to try it out .. adn a stock cam for the extra 350 i have.

 

I don't think there is anything wrong with your dist or cam unless the pin that holds your dist gear is broken. Do you have 12v at the coil (at the connection not going to the dist) when cranking and also when not cranking with the key on? If not run a jumper wire from the battery to coil connection thats not going to the dist. Set your points with .019 feeler gauge or a matchbook cover, it puts you in the ballpark. If all the voltages are there then I would assume a bad coil.

The only other thing I can think of is possibly your dist is 180 deg out?

 

there is 12v at the coil before the distrb. and the points were set with a feeler gauge to .019 and seem to be ok .. i didnt check the volts while the car was cranking though.. so i will chekc that the coil is also brand new.

thanks again for the help!
Jared

 

Like I said if you jumper a 12 ga wire direct from battery positive to the coil (not the post the dist is connected to) you will eliminate everything in between the ignition switch and the coil. If the car starts, then you are losing 12v to your start circuit. Once the car is running, remove the wire and see if it stays running. If it shuts off and the key is on your missing 12v for the run circuit.

Pretty easy!

!

 

thanks alot man i will certainly try it and see what goes on!

thanks again
Jared

 

Also remember the firing order goes counter clockwise on an olds.
If your wire leads and ballast resistor test ok....and you are not getting spark at the plugs with 12v connected directly to the coil +
then your points contacts or coil is the issue.

 

yea i have all the specs set according to the chilton manual . so im pretty sure there correct

 

I have a 74 Cutlass Supreme with the 350 small block. The car starts fine and runs great until it seems to heat up. Once that happens the car runs rough when a load is put on it (in a gear). When I hit the gas it just sputters and doesn't really want to go like it always does. I have replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, set timing, and even did a rebuild on my Holley carb. Still having problem, anyone out there have any ideas. Im thinking coil or dist.??

 

HEI ?

If yes could be the module

 

Coil, condenser, module, pickup (depending on what sort of ignition you have) are all possibilities.
Have you checked your spark when it's misbehaving?

- Eric