Yeah, I had the instructions with the wheel.. and they had me all sorts of screwed up just finding TDC.. lol.

Once I quit trying to do things different than how I'd done them (successfully) in the past...I was able to find TDC and move on to measuring valve events.

Hopefully I'm gonna be able to get off work early enough tomorrow and I'll go ahead and advance the gear 2° and check everything again.

 

Alright.. and now we're to the process of reinstalling the timing cover/front seal. I've found Joe P's way of installation multiple times through the search history.. and I'm striking out with the eccentric bolt method. Pops is going to loosen the oil pan bolts tomorrow while I'm at work, and try to get everything into place. At this point, I'm already conceding the fact that things will probably leak, so at some point in the spring when it's warmer it'll need a bit more attention.

With the single digit temps coming, I just want this thing sealed up again. This has taken far too long and been far too complicated of a process. Which honestly wouldn't have been the case had I not busted my thumb up to the point of needing help I think.. lol

 

At some point you need to check intake fitment again as well. Based on the quality of the assembly your shop did, I wouldn’t bet that it’s as good as it could be.

 

The intake had been removed/reinstalled last winter (a couple times as I didn't get it sealed well the first time)

 

Got the front cover installed last night, so we're gonna button everything back up today and possibly tomorrow before the weather gets stupid at least get it fired up to check for leaks and whatnot. Lofty goal, probably won't happen that way, but it sure sounds like a great idea. Maybe I could even be so motivated as to let it really get warmed up and see what it's done with my vacuum problem. I can't imagine it wouldn't have helped it..but then again this has been an unnecessary adventure since the start.

 

Best of luck for you !

 

Well.. naturally things didn't go as planned, but I went out this afternoon and got the list much shorter. The stopping point though came with reinstalling the balancer. I put a bit of oil on the end of the crank snout and got the balancer on and slid back until it stopped. How do I make sure it's sealed in place? Oddly when we went to remove it, we literally just turned the end of the puller by hand and it pulled the balancer out. I figured it'd be much more "stuck" in there. I ran the bolt in finger tight, just so I had everything together.

Once I can be sure the balancer is on correctly, I'll finish buttoning things up and fire it up the next decent day we have.

 

I think torquing that massive bolt to 160+ ft-lbs will ensure the balancer is fully seated.

 

lol..id say that sounds too easy, but I also know it'll be a pain trying to torque it without rotating the engine.. lol

 

I use a tool that holds the flex plate.

 

ooo... not a bad idea. I feel like someone had mentioned something like that before, but i thought it was to turn the engine, not hold it.

 

It engages the ring gear teeth. I don't know if they make an Olds specific holder, mine was more universal as I used it on many a make and model. You don't want to damage the ring gear either so it has it fit well.

 

I still have the very bent Craftsman screwdriver that I inserted through one of the flex plate holes to wedge against the block while I wailed on the snout bolt back in the 80s.

 

Nice!
I also used this method back in the early 80's but it was a cut down factory tire iron instead of one of my Craftsman screw drivers.

 

Well, we got the cover back on and have been slowly trudging along at putting everything back together. I went out after work as all that was left was to finish attaching the PS brackets and out belts on.. and I noticed a couple drops of coolant from under the timing cover.

I *think* it seems to be coming out of the hole where the dowel is and running down. Pretty irritated, because the paper gasket didn't make me feel warm and fuzzy but I went with it anyway.

 

I could be wrong but I dont think the dowel pin holes go anywhere near a water jacket. I can look at a block Monday morning to be sure.


The paper gaskets have worked just fine for over 60 (?) years. Not sure if there is any other choice really. I always put a coat of Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket on them.

 

My concern with the gasket wasnt as much the paper gasket, but that it just seemed big. My fear is it didn't lay flush near the dowel, and the coolant from the block is running between the gasket & cover (or gasket and block) and finding an exit point where the dowel protrudes from the cover. We didn't pull the dowels, so I don't think that's really where it's coming from.

I wiped everything up again last night and spun the fan a few different rotations as well as made sure bolts were tight. I did not see any signs of anything wet just a few minutes ago, so Im going to hook up the water pump belt and try to start it. Worst case, Id think after a few seconds the leak should show itself (though it may get blown around by the fan) but the hope is that maybe it was just residual (though, doubtful)

 

Fired it up, let it run for a bit. Noticed a bit of coolant gathering between the timing cover and timing tab..but not a lot. After shutting it down, I noticed little spots pretty much on or around each bolt.

I know these don't go into the water jacket..but I'm really kinda racking my brain here. I know when we pulled the bolts out, they did have gray RTV on them. I just figured that was residual from when it was installed..but could it/should it have been applied to the bolts upon reinstallation?

 

The bolts do not go into water, and the gasket seals around the bolt holes.

 

agreed. I think the issue is it not sealing well around the ports between the block and cover.Its not leaking between the pump and cover

 

These

 

How did it run?

 

Not bad considering it basically needs a reset for its tune.. lol. I honestly had not focus on the leak then anything else, but it didn't fight me/wasn't a pain. Being 11 outside meant I also had limited time in the garage too.. maybe the next relatively decent day I can let it run a bit longer and throw the light/vacuum gauge and dial things in a bit better.

 

Is the cover pitted?

 

no. brand new (upon assembly in 2022).

 

Aftermarket or Original GM?

 

Aftermarket I believe. It didn't leak prior to this endeavor however.

 

Have you checked the weep hole in the pump? I've seen pumps leak after sitting but seal after use. If you haven't torn it back apart you can try a GM sealer pellet that works great. Before anybody says they are useless, GM put one in every car before leaving the factory. If you don't believe me look in the PIM, it's in there.

 

I didnt know that was a thing honestly.. but wouldn't I see that on the outside of the cover (not just at the bolts)?

 

I guess I misunderstood where it's leaking from. The sealant is a real thing tho. I know it's in the 66 PIM/assembly manual to add the sealant to every car/engine. If I remember right my 66 had a hard to find coolant leak and I put the GM sealant pill in it.

 

I'd never heard of the sealant..kinda crazy they'd put it in from the factory.

 

From the 66 PIM/assembly manual.

 

interesting. Well, I know it wasnt done with this engine

 

Now or from the factory?

 

the engine was rebuilt (completed) fall of 2022..so from 2022.

 

That same sealer is still sold by AC Delco and GMPD I'm sure.

 

Gotcha. I'm hoping next weekend I can fire it up and run it long enough to get the ignition timing/carb closer to dialed in..and it should also help it run long enough to open the thermostat and really get a feel for how bad the leak is.

I'm still befuddled as to why its coming out where it is, but worst case I may just pull the cover back off and try it again. I still think that paper gasket got doubled over as it seemed long on both sides..but we were so focused on that front seal we just kinda both figured it'd seal okay.

 

You have a wideband?

 

No, but it will be going to a Chassis dyno. Unless I get overzealous and have them install a bung when the exhaust gets done and pick up what I need to do it at the house.

I feel much better with the dyno time though.

I'm referencing strictly getting it back in the ballpark.

 

I'm not saying the sealer will fix your issue but just letting you know it's a possibility.